Many consider wine from a large cooperative “less-than” in terms of quality. In some cases that’s true if, among other factors, the caliber of the wine is compromised due to the vast quantity produced. But after a recent lunch in Chicago, I can honestly state that wines from Mandrarossa Winery, a label from the Cantine Settesoli cooperative in Menfi, Sicily, are anything but below-par. In fact, after tasting the wines and talking with Alberto Antonini, Consultant Winemaker, and Stephan Moccia, Export Manager Europe and Global Coordinator, I was so blown away by the luxury in each sip, I’ve been telling everyone I know about my latest discoveries. Now, it’s your turn to find out.
Mandrarossa Winery – Photo Credit: www.mandrarossa.it
Just in time, Kevin Gagnon at Snarky Wine is hosting this month’s #ItalianFWT (Italian Food Wine Travel) twitter chat on Saturday, February 1 at 10am central time. I’d love to have you join our group of winelovers who taste wines, pair our discoveries with food, travel as much as possible and write about our experiences. Our focus this time around is Italian wine cooperatives that produce quality wines that are worth a second sip. For Kevin’s excellent introductory article about the concept and purpose of wine cooperatives, click here. I hope to see you on Saturday.
Cantine Settesole
At Cantine Settesole, a wine cooperative founded in 1958, 2000 growers from family-run vineyards in southwest Sicily produce grapes for three specific labels: Settesole, Mandrarossa and Inycon. They cultivate 30 specific varieties on 6000 hectares of land, about 7% of all vineyards on the island. Cantine Settasole was the first Italian wine company to “certify the traceability of the entire production chain, from the vineyard to the wineries.” In fact, it has one of the largest photovoltaic plants in the wine-producing sector in the country. Along with their investments in technology and the vast territory that spans from Menfi to Montevago and Santa Maria di Belice, those at Cantine Settasole “take care of their vineyards like it’s part of the family.”
Mandrarossa Winery
Mandrarossa Winery, in the province of Agrigento in Menfi, was developed in 1999 after Alberto Antonini, world renowned consulting winemaker, was asked to join a team of experts charged with a unique project. They were asked to identify the top tier of estates within Menfi’s micro-terroirs, biodiversity, numerous exposures, slopes, altitudes, sea breezes and sunshine in order to produce superior estate-bottled wines. The mission has been accomplished.
Sea View from Mandrarossa – Photo Credit: www.mandrarossa.it
Now, Mandrarossa Winery produces exceptional wine from grapes considered the “best of the best.” It’s Cantine Settasole’s highest tier brand with grapes sourced from fewer than 10% of their growers. During our conversation, Antonini stated that their goal is “to deliver to the world what is possible in Sicily” and their focus is on “the authenticity of the grape.” Even now Antonini continues to work with Mandrarossa’s head winemaker and agronomist “to map soils, identify the best grape clones and collaborate with grower families on vineyard management.”
Alberto Antonini and Stephan Moccia explained that the Mandrarossa Winery is currently undergoing an in-depth project whereby single territory wines with limited production are being produced in order to “show the purest expression of their respective grape varieties and territories.” At lunch, I tasted two exemplary wines: Terre del Sommaco of 100% Nero d’Avola grown on limestone soils over 1000 feet above sea level, and Bertolino Soprano of 100% Grillo cultivated on limestone soils nearly 500 feet above sea level. With each sip, authenticity, elegance, freshness and drinkability could be noted in each glass.
Sandy Dunes at Mandrarossa – Photo Credit: www.mandrarossa.it
Pairing Mandrarossa Wines with Food
Our lunch was held at Two (1132 West Grand Avenue, Chicago) and during our gastronomic experience, I wondered why I had never dined there! That will change. Breads, desserts, ricotta chesses and more are made in-house and the philosophy of the cuisine reflected that of the wines from Mandrarossa. Delicious food that was honest, pure, of the highest standard and beautifully crafted were appreciated by all.
As the Prime Hangar Steak with onion soubise, roasted fingerling potato and chimichurri was served, four wines were poured. A crowd favorite, “Timperosse” Petit Verdot 2018 ($19.99) of 100% Petit Verdot was rife with pure, juicy red fruit, black plums, rosemary and sage while framed with soft tannins and vibrant acidity.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
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