Six Sips from the South: Why Victoria Is Australia’s Hidden Wine Gem

About a year ago, I tasted for the first time, five wines from the Victoria region of Australia during an online chat with their producers and other wine writers. Without a doubt, I was impressed with not only the wines but the region as a whole. Fast forward to a couple of weeks ago when I had the opportunity to taste more complex, world class wines (sent as samples) from this fascinating region. Moderated by Christina Pickard, Ambassador for Wines Victoria, sipping and learning became the highlights of my day! Now it’s your turn…

Discover Victoria in the Southeast Corner of Australia

Victoria is a rather small state in comparison to other regions in Australia and is about the size of Texas. Found in the southeast corner of this vast continent, the area covers nearly 90,000 square miles of land, is about a fourth of the size of South Australia and a third of the size of New South Wales to the north. In Victoria, there are 21 wine regions encompassing 54,000 miles of vineyards consisting of around 800 family vineyards.

However, Victoria is Australia’s third most productive wine region in comparison to other regions in the country. Why third? There is a lack of irrigated areas for bulk production and quality over quantity is the mantra of winemakers and winery owners. Small, boutique wineries along with large producers can be found producing premium wines.

Diversity in grape varieties cultivated reflects the range of different climate and soil types in Victoria’s unique regions. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Nebbiolo, Pinot Grigio/Gris, Vermentino, Muscat and so many more are found within a small area. The most well known regions are Yarra Valley, Rutherglen and Mornington Peninsula, but perhaps you’ve heard of Alpine Valleys, Beechworth, Geelong, Goulburn Valley, Grampians and Heathcote. How about King Valley and Murray Darling?

Thanks to the discovery of gold in the 1850s, settlers around the globe and especially from Europe rushed to the region. They brought grapevines and knowledge of viticulture and as a result, the wine industry commenced. Although Victoria produced half of all Australian wines by 1890, phylloxera in the late 19^th century, World War I soon thereafter, and other factors affected the industry. It wasn’t until the 1960s when wine production began again in earnest.

A Snapshot of Six Wines from Victoria

To put the region and wines from award-winning boutique producers in perspective, our group tasted six choices.

From Pinot Gris grapes cultivated in King and Yarra Valleys, 2021 Innocent Bystander ($14) was a brilliant beginning to the tasting. All fruit was handpicked, wild ferments, and gravity-flow winemaking techniques have helped propel Innocent Bystander into a brand wine lovers count on for offering affordable, consistent wines that overdeliver on quality. The wine was matured in 85% stainless steel, then 15% in seasoned French oak. Beautifully balanced, aromas of juicy pears, lemon and herbs led to flavors of flowers, lemon sherbet and orchard fruit. The lingering finish was punctuated with vibrant acidity; it’s my new go-to for sipping outside on a warm, breezy afternoon.

Fresh and lush, 2023 Zilzie Victoria Sauvignon Blanc ($15) is from the area of Murray Darling. Chief Winemaker Jonathan Creek focuses on wines with “structure, crisp acidity, brilliant color, balance and tensile strength.” Truth be told, all the boxes were checked with this wine. Incredibly fruit forward, I noted aromas of citrus and lemon zest along with a refreshing palate that included fresh cut grass, herbs and touch of tropical fruit. Grab a bottle and sit by the pool!

It’s high time we revisit Riesling! Consider 2021 Best’s Great Western Riesling ($25), an approachable and elegant wine from the Grampians region. As a fun fact, the Grampians has been a quality wine producing region for more than 150 years and Best’s has some of the world’s oldest vines on their own roots. This Riesling though… wow! Aromas of stone fruit, lime and florals were enticing. On the palate, high acidity framed notes of citrus, orchard fruit, flint and minerality. Buy a few bottles – open some now and save the others for a few more years. This wine has the ability to age beautifully.

It was thrilling to receive 2023 Yering Station Pinot Noir ($35) having tasted an earlier vintage in the previous Victoria wines online experience. Grapes from the vast Yarra Valley with its cool climate vibe, were aged in French 500L puncheons for 8 months. Intense aromas of lush red berries, florals, baking spice and cocktail cherries eased into a palate rife with bright acidity and delicate tannic structure. Mouthwatering cherries and spice were notable, as was the lingering finish.

What a blend! Mother Block 2022 Red Blend ($18) is a field blend of 62% Sagrantino, 17% Nero d’Avola, 7% Aglianico, 6% Sangiovese, 5% Uva di Troia, 2% Teroldego and 1% Piedirosso cultivaved at Chalmer’s Estate vineyard at Merbein in the Murray Darling region. Of 85 acres, “Mother Block” is “at the heart of the Chalmers family” and is located near the family home and business. Fruit in this wine are from plantings that the family has imported from Italy to Australia over the last 20 years. Aged in stainless steel for 8 months, this fresh and balanced wine offered notes of red cherries, dark plums, pomegranate, pepper and hint of mint. Much of the same was on the palate that boasted bright acidity, moderate tannins and the uncanny ability to pair with a variety of foods I love. And the price!

All Saints Estate Rutherglen Muscat ($25) was a fitting finale to a perfect tasting. Grapes are semi-raisined on the vine, partially fermented and then fortified with grape spirit prior to being in a program that is not unlike a Sherry solera crossed with a Madeira estufagem. In the late 1990s, winemakers of Rutherglen grouped together to create a four-tier nomenclature for Muscat. The first is Rutherglen Muscat (average age is 7+ years), next is Classic (15+ years), Grand (25+ years), Rare (50+ years) and finally, Museum Release Rutherglen Muscat (100+ years). The system guarantees the style which is progressively richer and more complex the higher the tier. What I found in the glass of All Saints Estate Rutherglen Muscat was a showstopper over vanilla bean ice cream! Aromas and flavors of caramel, golden raisin were seductive to say the least. Spoiler alert: once opened, drink within 18 months for maximum enjoyment.