In early March, I traveled virtually to Alto Adige, Italy where Matthias Messner, Managing Director, of Cantina Bozen awaited a group of wine journalists in order to introduce then taste four red wines (sent as samples). After his warm welcome, one of the first statements he made was that Alto Adige, the most northern region in Italy bordering Austria and Switzerland, is a “land of contrast” due to the mix of languages and foods reflecting both Italian and German cultures. The region boasts 5800 hectares of vineyards (less than 1% of cultivated areas in Italy), mostly hand-harvested on slopes ranging from 200-1000 meters. 20 different grape varieties are grown; as of 2023, production is 65% white wine and 35% red wine.
Cantina Bozen is a cooperative winery founded in 1908. After years of challenges in the 1970s and 1980s, a shift towards quality instead of quantity was made to strengthen its position. In 2001, the merger of Gries and St. Magdalena wineries resulted in combined resources. Their objective was “to become a leading player in the Alto Adige region” while supporting local grape growers. Now 224 member growers cultivating 340 hectares are involved. Produced are 50% white wines and 50% red wines. A new gravity-flow winery was built in 2008 and there is a precise focus on sustainability that includes solar power and digital tracking of vineyard treatments.
Stephan Filippi, Chief Winemaker at Cantina Bozen, has remarked, “Making good wine is a craft, making great wine is an art.” Having learned the backstory, everyone was ready to pop the cork of these beautiful red wines and explore the artistry of Cantina Bozen.
Our first wine was Huck Am Bach St. Magdalener Classico ($22) of 90% Schiava and 10% Lagrein from the 5 hectare Huck am Bach vineyard of gravelly soils. Aged in large oak vats, this light, easy drinking wine offered aromas of violets, rose petals, and bright cherries. On the palate, notes of almonds, rasberries and confections were framed with just right acidity and soft tannins. It was suggested that the wine will pair with grilled peppers and bacon, grilled fish with sauce, or a regional ham, speck.
Elegant, classic Pinot Nero 2023 ($25) was of grapes (also known as Blauburgunder) grown on warm, well-ventilated sites at 500-750 meters above sea level. Fermented in stainless steel, a portion was left to mature in wooden casks for a short period of time. Aromas of plums, raspberries, cherries and hint of anise led to intense flavors of more of the same on the palate; all were nestled within moderate tannic structure and bright acidity. Mouthwatering pairings are mature cheeses, grilled beef, lamb burgers or seared duck.
Perl 2022 ($30) is of Lagrein, an indigenous variety that is a crossing of Teroldego and Schiava. The grape itself prefers heat; the area of cultivation is at 250 meters above sea level. After fermentation in stainless steel, the wine matured in large oak barrels then in the bottle. Wafting from the glass were lovely floral aromas of violets, lavender, roses, dark red berries, hint of spice and a sensation of minerality. The medium bodied palate was elegant and balanced with moderate acidity and satin-like tannins. Consider lunch or dinner of tender roast beef and roasted potatoes or a light meat sauce and mushroom with pasta. Of course, don’t forget a glass of two of Perl 2022 for the win!
Vines over than 80 years old grow on warm sandy volcanic soils near Bolzano at 250 meters above sea level – these vines are responsible for the Lagrein in Taber Reserva ($80). The area’s marked diurnal temperature shifts help Lagrein thrive and the aged vines help ensure high quality. The wine matured about a year in large oak barrels and is an example of a complex wine with the ability to age for 10-15 years. Fruit forward aromas of juicy cherries, roses, violets and chocolate shavings led to concentrated flavors of more luscious fruit on a foundation of vibrant acidity and soft tannins. Try tortellini with chestnuts and sausage, mature cheeses, roast beef, or juicy grilled beef tenderloin with a bottle of Taber Reserva, the most awarded wine from Alto Adige. Magnificent!
*photo*
At Cantina Bozen in Alto Adige, notable artwork is always in the glass.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
