Ahhhh, Uruguay. In the never-ending, intriguing journey of wine, the country of Uruguay is one to discover if you haven’t already. With a population of around 3.4 million (90% of whom are descendants of Europeans) and a GDP per capita of $15,250 (the second in South America), why not live there or at least visit? Life expectancy is 78 years, the literacy rate is 98.7% (the highest in South America) and for internet geeks, access is 20.11 MG/second (#1 in Latin America). And yes, there’s wine in Uruguay, the second smallest country of Latin America.
The most widely planted varieties in Uruguay include red wines of Tannat (3,892 acres/1,575 ha), Merlot (1,532 acres/620 ha), Cabernet Sauvignon (833 acres/337 ha), and Cabernet Franc (534 acres/216 ha. White wines of Marselan (469 acres/190 ha), Sauvignon Blanc (327 acres/132 ha), Chardonnay (267 acres/108 ha), and Albariño (235 acres/95 ha) are notable and have entered the international stage to much acclaim. Total area under vine, though, is around the size of Saint Emilion AOC and a bit less than Alexander Valley in California. Perhaps you’ve had Uruguay wine – they’re exported to over 50 countries.
Uruguay is found between parallels 30 and 35 degrees south, the same swath where most of Argentina and Chile’s winegrowing regions are located. Heavily influenced by the country’s maritime climate and calcareous soils rich in clay, grapes flourish.
Photo Credit: International Wine Review
Climate and Soil in Uruguay
White varieties with a shorter maturation period are found closer to the coast, in vineyards from Rocha to Maldonado and through part of Canelones. In the interior from Canelones to San Jose and Colonia, red varieties with a longer growing cycle are cultivated. The sea offers an abundance of wind and rain and moderates the temperatures of most of Uruguay. For more about the specific sectors for winegrowing in Uruguay, please click here.
The entire country of Uruguay is located on the Rio de La Plata craton, a mass of pre-Cambrian rock that hasn’t been affected by the continental shifts. In Maldonado, soils are formed by the erosion of gray granite, the oldest rock on earth at 2.5 billion years old. Soils are rich in clay with varying depth depending on their proximity to the hills. Around Montevideo, soils are quite deep, created by the erosion of the craton itself. There, soils are clay-based and retain less water, due to the sand content from the river. Finally, the shore of the Uruguay River, between San Jose and Colonia, has clay soils deposited by the river and calcium carbonate created by sea fossils from long ago.
Photo Credit: Uruguay Wine
Uruguay Wines – An Overview
As you may expect, production is on a small scale. Most of the 180 wineries are family owned, many of which are run by the third and fourth generation. More than 50% of the harvest is done by hand.
Many associate Tannat as the signature grape of Uruguay – and rightly so – it’s the highest in production and the variety consumed the most by the people of the country. However, thanks to the country’s oceanic climate, white varieties are now planted more frequently. We can find sparkling white wines and lighter reds from Uruguay, too – all produced to satisfy the needs of inquisitive wine drinkers… like us.
Just recently, I had the opportunity to learn more about white wines from Uruguay from Joshua Greene, Editor, Publisher, Wine Educator, Speaker and Entrepreneur, who is a “champion of South American wines.” He moderated the virtual learning experience, then guided our group of journalists through a tasting of white wines (sent as samples). These exceptional wines of Uruguay, at a ridiculously affordable price, complemented many of my favorite foods from seafood to pastas to lighter meats roasted to perfection. Find one or more of these distinctive white wines and enjoy a taste of Uruguay.
A Selection of White Wines from Uruguay to Find Now
Cerros de San Juan 2023 Uruguay Familie Lahusen Riesling ($25)
The oldest winery in Uruguay was founded by the Lahusen family from Germany in 1854. Thanks to their heritage, the family imported Riesling vines 80 years ago in order to farm in Colonia, located near the Rio de la Plata. This refreshing, mineral-driven wine boasted stone fruit such as ripe peaches and pears, breezy salinity, white florals such as ripe peaches and pears and stony nuances on the nose and palate. Aged in Italian amphorae, this rich and complex Riesling was a treat to sip with seared salmon one evening.
Viña Progreso 2023 Progreso Overground Viognier ($26)
Gabriel Pisano, who has made wine in Sonoma, Apalta, Priorat and South Africa, makes the wine at his family’s Bodega Pisano in Progreso. Currently, he bottles his own experimental wine projects under the Viña Progreso label. This Viognier was not what I expected. Rich, not highly aromatic (a characteristic of classic Viognier), I found a fruit forward wine with subtle notes of flowers and citrus. On the palate, vibrant acidity punctuated its finesse with slight pepper, orange zest, nectarine and snappy pineapple flavors. My salad with greens, artichoke hearts, tomatoes, goat cheese and more was elevated with every sip of the Viognier.
Familia Traversa 2024 Montevideo Sauvignon Blanc ($16)
Sauvignon Blanc is the second most widely planted white variety in Uruguay, after Ugni Blanc. Familia Traversa’s vineyards are in Montevideo about 15 km away from the sea. Brilliant minerality, green apple and lemon on the nose led to a refreshing palate rife with bright acidity, hints of green grass and herbs. Light and flavorful, our chilled bottle was absolutely perfect with a variety of sushi. Perfection!
Bouza 2024 Uruguay Albariño ($28)
From Galicia in northwest Spain, the Bouza family were the first to plant Albariño in Uruguay. This variety is now the third most widely planted white grape in the country. From the regions of Las Violetas, Canelones, Melilla and Montevideo, this delicate wine offered intense aromas and flavors of lemon, oranges, pears and salt with a touch of spice. Snappy acidity framed the round palate that led to a lingering finish. Utterly exhilarating, pair the Bouza with grilled calamari for a taste sensation you’ll remember.
Familia Deicas 2024 Atlántico Sur Albariño ($20)
Cultivated at estate vineyards in Canelones and Maldonado within 16 miles from the sea, soils are clay and limestone in Juanico and decomposed granite in the Sierras of Garzon. By all accounts, Santiago Deicas “finds that he prefers the explosive flavor of the grape.” Coastal freshness reigned in this exceptional wine. Wow-worthy aromas of melon, peach, citrus and herbs were followed with mouthwatering acidity and rose petals on the palate then a juicy, fruit-forward grand finale. Enjoy a glass or two with crab cakes or your favorite fish tacos. As for me, it was a treat to open a chilled bottle to complement appetizers of smoked salmon blinis with crème fraiche and capers.
Bodega Garzón 2023 Garzón Single Vineyard Albariño ($35)
With remarkable body and depth, this award winning wine is worth the reasonable price. Vineyards are 11 miles from the Atlantic Ocean and are on hillside slopes experiencing a variety of microclimates, humidity and canopy management. As a result, grapes bask in maximum exposure to the sun resulting in an intense expression of fruit. Not surprising, the wine’s freshness was notable and the vibrancy of fruit and acidity provided the frame. On the nose, I discovered floral notes that segued to elements of minerality, granite, bright citrus, stone fruit and salinity. Grilled fish with mango sauce, ceviche or Asian fare are my go-to pairings with this magnificent wine.
For more about the wines of Uruguay, visit their website HERE.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
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