When two brothers, Aldo and Paolo Rametta, joined forces in the summer of 2020 to start a family business in the heart of their homeland, Romagna, their passion for wine and the region led them to success. Both were born in New Orleans, Louisiana and raised between the United States and Switzerland; their careers as entrepreneurs in the renewable energy sector afforded them more opportunities to travel extensively. Finally, in 2016, Poggio della Dogana was established and in 2020, Ronchi di Castelluccio was founded. The Rametta brothers and their families are now ensconced and thriving in their beloved Romagna.
During a recent virtual wine education and tasting experience (wines sent as samples) with Aldo Rametta, our group of journalists learned about the two locations, each of which exudes unique identities. This is an “amazing region for people and land – the coast, mountains, inland. We found the right opportunity,” began Aldo Rametta. Their goal is to “revive a myth of Italian oenology, taking up the challenge of these places with courage and innovative spirit.”
Paolo and Aldo Rametta – Photo Credit: Ronchi di Castelluccio
The Rametta Brothers Spearhead the Renaissance of Ronchi di Castelluccio
‘Ronchi’ indicates the tracts of land that were originally part of the Apennine woods “that were manually torn with an archaic tool called ‘roncola.’ The idea of planting these single-variety and single-vineyard vines was based on the area’s unique location of an altitude of 253-411 meters above sea level and its array of woodland vegetation. Having been part of the ocean for millions of years, the hills of Modigliana have an abundance of fossils. Soils are comprised of layers of marls and sandstones and micro zones offer optimal conditions for the production of high-quality wines, despite the area’s steep slopes and poor soils.
Historically, Ronchi di Castelluccio was “the first quality wine experience in Romagna” with Gian Vittorio Baldi at the helm. He was adamant about planting different clones on different parcels similar to the process in France used since 1800. Eventually, thanks to enologist Vittorio Fiore and Remigio Bordini, agronomist, Ronchi became the first Romagna cru that offered wines of premium quality and the ability to age. Soon thereafter, Fiore’s family purchased the winery and in 2020 the Rametta brothers assumed ownership. They employed Bordini’s son to work on the agronomic and enological management.
Now the historic vines have been restored and Ronchi di Castelluccio is undergoing a renaissance, of sorts. Please take a deeper dive into this fascinating story by clicking HERE.
Photo Credit: Ronchi di Castelluccio
Examples of this transformation can be experienced with sips of the estate’s wines.
Not your California Sauvignon Blanc, Ronchi di Castelluccio Sottovento Colli di Faenza DOC Sauvignon Bianco 2022 is pure Romagna. Cultivated in Modigliana at 290 meters above sea level on marl and calcareous sandstones with textured sand, this refreshing, flavorful wine “embodies the essence of the terroir that generated it thanks to the vines planted in 1989.” I found savory notes from beginning to end, salinity, dried leaves, herbs, hint of green grass and vibrant acidity. Ageing was for 9 months in used barriques and no less than 9 months in the bottle. Complex with plenty of body, pair this wine with your favorite dishes – it’s just that versatile.
Fresh and easy drinking, yet with power and finesse, Ronco Della Simia, Romagna Sangiovese Modigliana DOC 2020 is of Sangiovese from a single vineyard on marly limestone with sandy loam texture. Aldo Rametta remarked that “Sangiovese is the best interpreter of terroir” and I have to agree. Balanced and utterly charming, the wine was aged for 9-10 months in allier, vosges, low toasted tonneaux and barriques with a minimum of 14 months in the bottle before release. Moderate tannins and acidity provided a foundation to a broad palate boasting herbs, red cherries, flint, violets, green tea, tarragon and Italian spices. Enjoy a glass of two with classic Italian fare, seafood with sauce or roasted chicken and potatoes.
Intense aromatics of blue florals, ripe black fruit, and forest floor at the first whiff of Buco del Prete Romagna Sangiovese Modigliana DOC 2021 were enticing. Of 100% Sangiovese Grosso (Romagna clones) grown at 300 meters above sea level (the estate’s lowest vineyard) on calcareous sandstones, this is a bold, rich wine. Vinification included alcoholic fermentation in steel with 20-25 days of maceration on the skins. Aged for 12 months in large 3000 litre French oak barrels with very low toast, further ageing included at least 6 months in the bottle. This wine was an excellent example of Sangiovese from the region. Savory, rustic and full of energy, flavors included spice, black cherries, crushed blueberries all lifted with brilliant acidity and firm tannins. Thanks, Nonna! I’d love more of your homemade lasagna with another glass of wine.
Aldo and Paolo Rametta Focus on Authentic Varieties of Romagna at Poggio della Dogana
Aldo and Paolo Rametta started their first wine project with Poggio della Dogana in 2017 when they purchased an estate in Terra del Sole; the estate included a 20+ year old vineyard undergoing organic conversion. Now, the winery of 20 hectares is completely organic and certified at the European level. Plantings focus on “representative varieties of the Romagna territory” including Sangiovese and Albana, a white grape. Biodiversity is a priority and olive trees along with a small production of honey by a local beekeeper are evident.
9 hectares of vines are grown in Castrocaro Terme on rich soils of brown clay and ochre with elements of bromine, sulphur and calcium; the area welcomes breezes from the Adriatic Sea. 11 hectares in Brisighella are on calcareous ochre soils that offer wines characteristics of salinity and pure elegance. For more about Poggio della Dogana, click HERE.
Poggio della Dogana – Photo Credit: My Kind of Italy
Ahhh, the wine. What a joy to taste the Albana grape, a new-to-me varietal. Aldo Rametta shared that Poggio della Dogana Belladama 2022 is like “a red wine dressed in white” and “lets you know that you’re in Romagna.” In fact, the Albana grape was “almost forgotten,” stated Rametta. “We now have 1000 hectares.” Vinification was without the skins through slow traditional pressing in a vertical press. Fermentation occurred in stainless steel; ageing was for 5 months on the fine lees and at no less than 2 months in the bottle. “The idea is to always sell the wine 12 months after harvest,” Rametta explained. What I found on the nose were subtle notes of citrus, white flowers and savory herbs. On the palate, mouthwatering acidity, lemon peel, spritz of grapefruit, sage and rosemary helped fashion a lovely wine perfect with seafood or white meats.
Aldo Rametta stated that “the winery and wines are part of our lives. We link these wines with history.” More? “There is no future without respect for history: we will be courageous, and we will be guided by dreams and emotions.” In essence, the brothers’ love for family, friendship, wine and Romagna are reflected in their intriguing story and wines.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
