Ah-ha moments in wine are always my favorites. Whether I’m exploring wines from a new-to-me region, pairing a glass with an unusual dish (that works or doesn’t!), or finding a varietal of which I’m not too familiar, the discovery sustains my love for wine. Just the other night, two bottles (sent as samples) from Abbazia di Novacella located in Alto Adige’s Valle Isarco in northern Italy were opened. Let the fun begin!
What I found were wow-worthy white wines from one of Europe’s oldest working monasteries in operation for 900 years. Thoroughly enjoyed were 2023 Valle Isarco Sylvaner 2023 (Alto Adige) ($22) and 2023 Valle Isarco Kerner (Alto Adige) ($22), both of which should be on everyone’s table, then in the glass – I know they will continue to be on mine.
Photo Credit: Throne and Vine
Abbazia di Novacella, A Working Monastery for 900 Years
Located in Novacella, the Abbey was founded in 1142 by the Order of the Augustinian Canons who continue to take vows of poverty, chastity and obedience to superiors. However, they also work to support themselves as part of the community as a whole. With that goal, those at the Abbey grow grapes for winemaking, farm apples and vegetables, and boast a small school focusing on viticultural studies. With the Abbey’s international reputation of excellence, Italy’s Gambero Rosso named Celestino Lucin, the Abbey’s enologist, as Winemaker of the Year in 2009.
Abbazia di Novacella has been producing award-winning wines that are not only exceptional on the palate but affordable to the wallet. White wines, such as Kerner, Sylvaner and Pinot Grigio, are cultivated in organic vineyards surrounding the abbey where a cool climate and moraine soils help grapes thrive. Red grapes, Schiava, Lagrein and Pinot Noir, are planted further south in Alto Adige where the climate is warmer. Currently, there are 80 hectares farmed with the Abbey itself owning 21 hectares – approximately 50 small growers in the region are contracted.
Sylvaner, An Ancient Variety Long Grown in Central Europe
Primarily grown in Alsace and Germany, Sylvaner offers high acidity and is often blended with Riesling or Elbling because it has a neutral flavor and “gives a blank canvas for the expression of terroir.” At times, it is made into a dessert wine. It is now believed to have originated in the Austrian Empire as a cross between Traminer and Österreichisch-Weiß (meaning “Austrian White”).
What I found in the glass of Abbazia di Novocella 2023 Valle Isarco Sylvaner (Alto Adige) was a welcome surprise. Elegant with body and depth, lovely fruit notes of melon, juicy pears and ripe apples were pervasive on the nose. Vibrant acidity, minerality and citrus on the palate led to a lip-smacking finish. Sipped with chicken enchilada soup with subtle spice notes, the acidity and brilliant fruit were notable. The wine was cultivated on mica schist, para gneiss and quartzite, then fermented and aged in stainless steel.
Kerner, A Specialty of the Valle Isarco
Highly aromatic, Kerner is a white grape bred in 1929 by August Herold when he crossed Trollinger (a red variety also known as Schiava Grossa or Vernatsch) and Riesling. It’s named after Justinus Kerner, a poet and physician who wrote songs and poetry about wine.
Kerner is mostly found in Germany, but it is also cultivated in Austria, Switzerland, the island of Hokkaido in Japan, and the Old Mission Peninsula in Michigan. It is also grown in the province of South Tyrol in Italy where Abbazia di Novocella is located.
Abbazia di Novocella 2023 Valle Isarco Kerner (Alto Adige) was a delicious pairing to roast chicken, grilled vegetables and rice pilaf one evening. On the nose, I found intense aromas of citrus, stone fruit, golden apple, apricots and pineapple. Juicy with lively acidity on the broad palate, notes of smoke and ripe white fruit were lush and led to a mineral-driven finish. Like Sylvaner, grapes were grown on soils of mica schist, para gneiss and quartzite. The wine was fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks. Just beautiful.
Indulge in your own ah-ha moments when you open bottles of these remarkable wines from Abbazia di Novocella. For more information, click HERE.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
