Only one visit to Austria is in my travel notebook and that was decades ago. When I backpacked through Europe with my college roommate, we meandered through Salzburg and even set foot in the gazebo on the grounds of the “Sound of Music” home. (Later, I discovered that no one is Austria has even heard of the Sound of Music movie, much less the gazebo – ha!)
Now I’m in the planning stages for a late spring 2025 trip to Austria with another college friend. There’s a possibility we’ll visit vineyards, but in the event we do not, I’ll definitely sip Austrian wine when we’re there. My “pre-gaming” efforts so far include learning more about the intriguing wines from this iconic country. Just recently, I was sent (as samples) two shockingly affordable and delicious wines of Blaufrankisch from Austria’s Burgenland region. Let the journey begin!
Photo Credit: Zantho Winery
Austria is a cool climate country that produces wines with remarkable aromatics. Burgenland, the warmest of Austrian wine regions located in the east, is influenced by a hot continental climate and influences of Lake Neusiedl. The relatively long growing season lasts for up to 250 days. The highest point in the province is on the border with Hungary, at 2900 feet above sea level and the lowest point (also the lowest point in Austria) is only 374 feet above sea level. Burgenland is the second-largest wine region in the country .
Dominant white grape varieties grown in Burgenland include Welschriesling, Chardonnay (Morillon), Weisburgunder (Pinot Blanc), Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris), Gelber Muskateller, the Traminer family, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling. Red grapes include Zweigelt, Blaufrankisch and St. Laurent or Blauburgunder (Pinot Noir). The area produces opulent and structured red wines as well as full bodied, complex whites and beautiful, sweet wines.
Photo Credit: Wine Folly
Blaufrankisch was first documented in the 1700s in Austria that was considered Germany at the time; it is most likely of Austrian or Hungarian origin. The name for the variety was Lemberger (Limberger) and was used as a crossing partner for Zweigelt, Blauburger, Roesler and Rathay. Now, Blaufrankisch is cultivated in the north, central, and southern areas of Burgenland as well as in eastern Niederösterreich. Typically, the late ripening variety presents bold and complex deep forest berry, cherry notes, spice and earth with bright acidity. Dense with gripping tannic structure when young, Blaufrankisch is highly regarded and shines when aged.
Sip a bit of Austria when you pour a glass of either wines of Blaufrankisch reviewed below.
Gunter + Regina Triebaumer Blaufrankisch 2022 ($15) from Rust, a town on the shores of Lake Neusiedl, is from a variety that is the family’s “personal passion.” Cultivated on soils of chalky loam in a single vineyard, the wine was aged in oak casks. Served slightly chilled then decanted, I found powerful aromas of black pepper, tart cherries, purple florals and ripe blackberries. On the palate, firm tannic structure and food friendly acidity were the foundation on which notes of tobacco, dark berries, earth and spice were dominant. This rich, slightly sweet wine was outstanding with grilled lamb burgers, but it could easily complement a Reuben sandwich, Hungarian goulash or anything with bacon.
Minerality, blackberries and elegant fruit notes on the nose characterized Zantho Blaufrankisch 2022 ($10). Dry with flavors of succulent berries and spiced compote, intense tannins and bright acidity provided the frame. Grapes were grown in Andau, Burgenland, an area with a mild, dry climate boasting sites sheltered from the wind. This refined wine was aged for 12 months in stainless steel tanks. Enjoy a glass or two with mushroom risotto, beef stroganoff, or a pasta e fagioli.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
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