“At The Donum Estate, we’re looking for elegance and balance in everything,” stated Dan Fishman, Vice President of Winemaking and Vineyards at Donum, during a recent virtual tasting of four outstanding wines (sent as samples). His mission is to “make the finest Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in California while preserving natural resources.” Inspired by the incredible wines and the stories of the Estate I heard from Dan, I had the opportunity to personally visit The Donum Estate in mid-November. What I discovered was not only more exceptional examples of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, but brilliant food pairings with each and one of the most breathtaking collections of art I’ve ever seen outside of a world class museum.
The Donum Estate
Founded in 2001, The Donum Estate was purchased by Hong Kong–based art collectors Allan and Mei Warburg in 2011. Soon thereafter, the couple added their personal art collection to the property. Located in Carneros, an iconic wine region tucked between Napa and Sonoma Counties, the Estate is a sensory experience from beginning to end. It includes a winemaking facility, contemporary hospitality center that soothes the soul by simply walking inside, a working organic culinary and cutting garden replete with goats and sheep, and a regenerative organic certified lavender field, olive tree grove and plum orchard.
It also includes The Donum Collection, one of the largest private sculpture collections in the world. Bonus? It’s accessible to visitors. In fact, there are more than 50 large-scale works of art in the Collection; over a third of the pieces were crafted specifically for the site on which they stand. Allan Warburg is Danish and Mei is Chinese; as an homage to their roots, international artists representing 18 nations spanning 6 continents include Ai Weiwei, Ghada Amer, Doug Aitken, Lynda Benglis, Louise Bourgeois, Keith Haring and Subodh Gupta.
Winemaking at The Donum Estate
Just like the works of art gracing the landscape, Dan Fishman and the winemaking team at Donum Estate “work with nature, not against it.” We want to “bring as much life back to the soil,” he shared. “Vines thrive and produce premium fruit to showcase some of Carneros’ unique terroir-expressive wines.” Fishman added that “we allow the microclimate to show – there is no heavy-handed winemaking.” Donum “farms to low yields, capturing the energy and essence of the land” and its barrel program boasts “the best examples to ensure quality.” Annual production is approximately 13K cases and wines are available in 20 states at this time.
The Estate in Carneros spans 220 acres planted between 1990 and 2018 on the gently rolling hills rising from the San Pablo Bay. The area is home to a variety of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay clones; Pinot Noir to Chardonnay plantings are 10:1. Four Estate vineyards boast organic certification by the California Certified Organic Farmers (CCOF) organization and Regenerative Organic Certified by the Regenerative Organic Alliance (ROA).
Photo Credit: The Donum Estate
During the virtual tasting we swirled and sipped four wines. 1044 cases are produced of the first selection, 2021 Single Vineyard Carneros Chardonnay ($75). Aged for 16 months in 30% French oak, rich aromas of lemon, golden apples and hint of baking spice led to a palate that burst with minerality, orchard fruit, baked apples and dash of pepper. A lingering finish and brilliant acidity rounded out this stunning Chardonnay.
Aged for 16 months in 66% French oak is 2021 Single Vineyard Reserve Carneros Pinot Noir -Thomas ($95). Thomas Vineyard was originally planted in 1974 and was purchased by Donum in 2016. This wine is of the “top Pinot Noir barrels” from the vineyard. On the nose, I found intense oak notes, florals, Christmas spice and dark berries. The palate offered complex layers of blueberries, root beer (!), and cloves on a foundation of firm tannins and vibrant acidity. 72 cases are produced.
2021 Single Vineyard Carneros Pinot Noir Three Hills ($95) is from four Pinot Noir clones cultivated in the vineyard’s cooler, later ripening portions. Wafting from the glass were notes of blackberries, violets, and cherries. Framed with soft tannins and moderate acidity, the palate exuded flavors of vanilla, baking spice and ripe apples. Aged for 16 months in 45% new French oak, 1046 cases are produced.
Also from Thomas Vineyard is 2022 Single Vineyard Carneros Pinot Noir TFV ($250). Aged for 16 months in 60% new French oak, 752 cases are produced. Another beautiful example of Pinot Noir, I found intense aromas of cocoa, black fruit, sassafras and flint. Juicy notes of cherries, cinnamon and dried apricot were delicious, as was the fresh fruit finish. Structured with firm tannins and just-right acidity, this is another example of a wine expressing distinct terroir.
Treat Your Senses When You Visit The Donum Estate
Reservations at The Donum Estate are a must, so reserve your experience early. Click HERE for the not-to-be-missed choices.
The 90-minute Discover Experience with an added all-terrain vehicle guided tour of the art collection, farm and vineyards, was our selection. After receiving a refreshing splash of 2023 Donum Rose of Pinot Noir, our knowledgeable wine educator, Ivy Huang, led us on the tour during which she shared information about the vineyards, art collection, farm and more. Afterwards, we relaxed in a private tasting room with glorious views of the landscape while Ivy guided us through four wines paired with canapes made with fresh ingredients from the Estate gardens.
Showing rich fruit with high acidity, 2021 Chardonnay from Russian River Valley ($75) was exceptional with our pairing of cured kanpachi, pears, Chardonnay gel, lemon verbena and finger lime caviar. 2021 Pinot Noir from Anderson Valley ($95) was lean and focused; each sip burst with flavor complemented with bites of chantarelle mushroom, pomegranate, molasses and manchego. 2021 Pinot Noir from Russian River Valley ($95) was savory and boasted floral notes – what a delight with Painted Hills carpaccio, pickled shallot, olive tapenade and aioli. Finally, 2021 Pinot Noir from Home Ranch ($95) in Carneros was ripe and juicy with an array of cherry elements; a surprise (and delicious) pairing was Estate honeynut squash, almond crumble, apples, urfa and maple. Kudos to the Executive Chef, Fiorella Butron for developing the notable pairings.
Why will I return to The Donum Estate? This is, without a doubt, the best example of how fine wine, breathtaking works of art and creative cuisine intersect to satisfy all the senses.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
For more Grape Experiences, your free infographic “4 Keys to a Stellar Wine Pick” and a coupon code towards your purchase of my online course “Discover the Essentials of Wine (and choose it like a pro!)” click here.
