Costaripa is a small family winery located on the southwest shore of Lake Garda in the Lombardy region of Italy. At a recent virtual tasting with fourth generation member Nicole Vezzola, a group of journalists learned and tasted beautiful cool climate rosé wines from this fascinating spot in the world. Nicole Vezzola made it clear that Costaripa is “linked to terroir and appellation, not the market or trends. Our rosés are not just a color, they are a wine.” With its location in Valtenesi on the Brescia shore, it’s easy to understand why.
Lake Garda
The winery is located in Valtenesi on hilly, morainic soils that reach from north to south between the towns of Desenzano and Salo. The climate is tempered by Lake Garda, creating elements of a Mediterranean climate, although the location is quite close to the Alps. With sunshine and breezes in the morning and evening, a sub-Mediterranean microclimate exists. The area boasts 67 different soils and is optimal for producing rosé wines of Groppello Gentile, a unique variety of the Valtenesi region. In fact, it’s one of the oldest indigenous grapes in northern Italy. Nicole Vezzola remarked again and again that terroir, climate and indigenous grapes truly define Costaripa.
Until the tasting, I was not familiar with Groppello Gentile, this historic, northern Italian red wine that’s usually blended. According to Wine Grapes by Robinson, Harding and Vouillamoz (2012), one of the first mentions of Groppello Gentile was “in the sixteenth century in the area of Brescia and Bergamo as a fine grape whose wine was exported to Germany.” The grape is mainly cultivated in Lombardy and is often blended with Groppello di Mocasina, Sangiovese, Marzemino or Barbera. On its own, this ruby colored wine reveals moderate acidity, with spice, black pepper and violet notes on the soft palate. And as a rosé wine? Groppello Gentile has found its place and thrives at Costaripa.
Mattia Vezzola, father of Nicole, is one of the most “renowned and respected names in the world of Italian winemaking.” His father, Bruno, an acclaimed winegrower in his own right, encouraged him to pursue winemaking as a career. After graduating in 1972 with a degree in oenology from University in Conegliano, Mattia traveled to Champagne, where he developed his passion for sparkling wines “along with a production philosophy that emphasizes the importance of crafting extremely complex, refined, elegant and equally long-lasting wines.” Truth be told, I found his passion in each wine that I tasted.
Photo Credit: Costaripa
With Nicole Vezzola as our guide, the tasting focused on four of Costaripa’s rosé wines, two still and two sparkling. Nicole explained that according to her father, Mattia, the rosé is “an antidote to banality and complications of everyday life.” Exactly. What I found in each wine was a natural juiciness and brightness reflecting the Mediterranean sunshine and gentle breezes with a nod to Alpine elements. Dry with a round mouthfeel, notes of fruit, acidity and minerality helped create balanced wines that were stunning on their own as well as with a variety of foods. Suddenly, life became less complicated with every sip – thank you, Mattia!
Rosa Mara Valtenesi 2023, created in the 1980s and named after Mattia’s mother and aunt, is a blend of 50% Groppello Gentile, 30% Marzemino, 10% Sangiovese and 10% Barbera. Nicole shared that the Rosa Mara “is my favorite pair of jeans” – it’s her anytime wine and I was tasted why. This instant refresher was pale pink in the glass with aromas of spice, juicy peaches, red berries, black pepper and pomegranate leading to flavors of much of the same with subtle tastes of almond. This wine was delicious with pizza one night, but it could easily complement beef tartare, spaghetti and clams, and spicy fare such as that from India, Lebanon or Thailand.
A blend of the same grapes but with 60% Groppello Gentile and 20% Marzemino, Molmenti Valtenese 2019 is from vines with an average age of 45 years. Meant for aging, Molmenti was aged in 440 litre white oak tonneaux barrels for around 24 months before further aging in bottles for another 3 years. Light pink with pearlized flecks, I found intense aromas of violets, white flowers, nectarines, spice and a bit of saffron. The complex palate exuded structure and balance with vibrant acidity and fresh citrus notes. Just brilliant with grilled swordfish under a spritz of lime, I’m already looking forward to finding another bottle.
Produced in the Metodo Classico VSQ (Vino Spumante di Qualita) whereby the second fermentation is in the bottle, Mattia Vezzola Brut Rose NV, is of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir cultivated on gravelly moraine soils with limestone and clay and aged for 24-30 months after harvest. Elegance and sophistication abounded with each swirl and sip. Very fine mousse after the first pour revealed a wine that was pale pink. Wafting from the glass were pure aromas of raspberries, red currants and hint of citrus. The palate offered bright acidity and flavors that lasted from the first to last sip. A delightful complement to smoked salmon blinis served as an appetizer at a recent dinner party, our guests enjoyed the story behind the wine as much as the palate profile.
Our last indulgence, Mattia Vezzola Grande Annata (Great Vintage) Rose 2018, was a stunner. Celebrating 50 years of its production (1973-2023), the blend is 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir from vineyards at different aspects. Mattia’s goal was to offer a wine that “combines the speed and energy of Pinot Noir with the elegance of Chardonnay.” Aged for 54-60 months from harvest, this complex, significant wine is also widely lauded, just receiving the prestigious Tre Bicchieri award from Gambero Rosso 2025. On the nose, I discovered ripe red fruit such as strawberries and currants along with fresh peaches. Full bodied, the balanced palate was pure with savory citrus, light sapidity and a lingering finish. I treated my husband and myself to a stunning glass (or two!) of the Grande Annata with Oysters Rockefeller one night – perfection!
“Since 1928, our family has been working these wonderful lands and I try to leave to those who come the value of respect and wisdom, that the daily rhythm of the winemaker manifests daily. Craftsmanship is an example of how hands and heart are complementary to the qualitative thinking of every gesture,” Mattia Vezzola is quoted as saying. Through the years, Costaripa has focused on producing high quality wines that enhance the local territory. The family’s philosophy includes a focus on environmental sustainability, protection of biodiversity, and seeking the broadest expression of terroir and grape varieties.
Costaripa’s rosé wines are highly recommended by not only me but others. For detailed information about Costaripa, please click HERE.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
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