When this Virginia girl moved to the bustling city of Chicago from small-town Chapel Hill decades ago, I found the people I met friendly, warm and welcoming. It wasn’t long before I went to an Italian/Polish wedding at which the only universal word spoken was “vino.” Born-and-raised Chicagoans took me under their wing to share their favorite restaurants and travel tips. Gene and Georgetti’s, The Pump Room, and The Lodge became regular haunts and soon, I became an expert at riding the “El” to Wrigley Field.
Chicago soon began to feel like home, although navigating the brutal winters of cold, ice and snow was always a challenge. And truth be told, I missed my MeeMaw’s fried okra and southern Smithfield ham biscuits.
As fate had it, I married a “Wisconsin guy” who I met in grad school in Chapel Hill and the rest is a story that continues to be written. Had I visited Wisconsin before I made the move to the Midwest? Nope. But now I am a Green Bay Packer fan, have been to the “hallowed grounds” of Lambeau Field more than once, and have had a number of stays at harbor towns dotting the Lake Michigan shoreline. Squeaky cheese curds are abundant, pasties and polka music are still a thing, Thankfully, I now understand the nuances of the Wisconsin accent and am known to say “you betcha” more times than I should!
What’s more? I’ve developed a penchant for an occasional Brandy Old Fashioned and dinner at authentic Wisconsin supper clubs. It may not get more Midwest than that!
What’s a Brandy Old Fashioned?
Before our late summer dinner at HobNob in Racine, Wisconsin, a supper club on Lake Michigan that has served grateful customers for decades, we sat at the bar for a cocktail. Naturally, we asked for a Brandy Old Fashioned, a drink I only sip when in Wisconsin. Apparently, everyone thought the same except for one guest who asked for a Grasshopper – our bartender was mixing and serving at all times! Perfect in every way with just enough brandy (everyone in the know uses Korbel brandy) to make the cocktail worthwhile, this was a boozy beginning to the night. We’re in Wisconsin!
The Wisconsin Supper Club
Think relish trays, sizzling steaks, ice cream drinks and the occasional taxidermy sighting at any Wisconsin supper club of which there are around 250 in the state. Community and connection are the hallmarks of these iconic spots and each time I’m at a supper club, guests are greeting each other as if the evening is a family gathering.
The oldest supper clubs began as roadhouses near lakes, farms and forests where patrons could find plenty of booze with sides of food. In fact, Chicago gangsters “on the lam” were regular customers at Little Bohemia Lodge or Manitowish Waters, the site for the movie Public Enemies. It still has bullet holes in the walls. Supper clubs truly represent a slice of Wisconsin history and many sport nostalgic photos of stars who frequented the clubs from the 1930s through the 1970s.
The Bar at HobNob in Racine, Wisconsin
At HobNob, diners were known to pay 50 cents for rooftop dancing on summer nights. When my “Wisconsin guy” and I were there on that warm, breezy night, soft cabaret music was an auditory backdrop to the visuals of dim lights, Naugahyde covered chairs, silky wall fabrics and sweeping Lake Michigan views.
Marking the changing times, there was no complimentary relish tray at HobNob, although it was on the menu as a “starter.” However, the bountiful dinner included steak, seafood selections, and poultry with an array of sauces. Each entrée was served with a soup, salad, and a choice of potato or rice pilaf. And of course there was a variety of desserts, all worth a taste. We left satisfied and wistful for days of yore, to be honest. As we walked to the car, I glanced at the rooftop with hopes of seeing someone dance…
Now my Wisconsin guy and I live in California wine country, a vibrant area with its own cultural vibe that we love. But each time we return to the Midwest, a visit to a supper club or two is in order for a Brandy Old Fashioned, a solid meal after which no one is hungry, and a slice of Wisconsin history.
Despite all of that, I still miss MeeMaw’s southern Smithfield ham biscuits.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
