Earlier this year, I visited the city of Monterey for the first time and was intrigued by its history, landscape and culture. It’s only a couple of hours north of my home in Paso Robles and trust me, I’ll be back to add a few more spots to the visit. One of those spots will be the Steinbeck Museum in Salinas where the lauded author and renowned son of Monterey County grew up and is now honored.
Truth be told, I have spent a fair amount of time in Monterey County and specifically at a few wineries in the Santa Lucia Highlands, AVA, each with its own unique history. The beautiful Santa Lucia Highlands AVA is a 12-mile long region above the Salinas River near Monterey Bay. Vineyards, found at 30-1200 feet above the valley floor, are on dry, granite soil. Abundant sunshine in the morning, afternoon fog and often strong breezes from the Pacific Ocean result in a long ripening season.
This past month, I’ve read Cannery Row, Grapes of Wrath and East of Eden, all penned by John Steinbeck. His exceptional descriptions of place and character helped me increase my understanding of the hardships and struggles, achievements and recognitions of the hard working people who lived in Monterey County in the early 1900s.
During my Steinbeck reads, I sipped brilliant Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs from the Lucia label of Pisoni Family Vineyards, a highly lauded winery with a fascinating history in Monterey County. What better way to celebrate this area than to pair Steinbeck’s books with superior wines from Monterey County?
The story of the Pisoni family continued in the mid-20th century in a place nearby Steinbeck’s hometown of Salinas. In 1952, Jane and Eddie Pisoni began a produce business in Gonzales, California where their dairy and alfalfa farm transformed into one offering lettuce, tomatoes, onions, broccoli, and more. In 1979, they purchased a 280 acre parcel of land in the Santa Lucia Mountains. There, cattle grazed because the rocky slopes were deemed unsuitable for crops. However, their son, Gary Pisoni, had other ideas. As Steinbeck wrote in The Grapes of Wrath, “You’re bound to get idears if you go thinkin’ about stuff.”
In 1982, “Gary began the process of turning 40 acres of difficult terrain into vineyards, despite others’ shock and disbelief that he could actually accomplish such a feat. Locating a water source was a huge challenge; it took nine years to finally strike water on the property. Incredibly energetic, Gary Pisoni is known as a maverick and anyone who has the finger on the pulse of the California wine industry knows the impact of Gary Pisoni and family’s wines that receive consistent accolades from around the world.” (from Pisoni Family Vineyards – Where a Sense of Connection to Family and Land is Always Present)
What Lucia wines was I sipping as I took a deep dive into the novels of John Steinbeck? New releases of 2022 Pisoni Family Vineyards Lucia wines of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir were exceptional. Each reflected the family’s farming and winemaking philosophy which emphasizes sustainability, support of the environment, and love for the land. Fruit is sourced from their three estate vineyards in the Santa Lucia Highlands: Pisoni, Gary’s and Soberanes. Each hand crafted wine is unfined and unfiltered.
Winemaker Jeff Pisoni writes, ”the 2022 vintage delivered incredible concentration and purity. Often the early years can be austere, but not this time. The vintage is generous, richly layered and very focused. We love the 2022 vintage.” So do I.
Savory aromas of baked apples, ginger shavings, stone fruit and hint of lemon on 2022 Chardonnay Soberanes Vineyard ($65) led to notes of grilled pineapple, crème brulee, orchard fruit, lemon, herbs and spice on the palate. Chalky minerality, salinity, and bright acidity framed this luscious wine that was aged for 17 month in in 30% new French oak.
An exceptional Chardonnay, 2022 Chardonnay Estate Cuvee ($50) offered vibrant citrus, yellow floral and gravel aromas. Ever so balanced with just the right amount of oak and acidity, I found yellow apple, beeswax, lemon zest in the wine with depth and breadth. Barrel aging was for 11 months in 40% new French oak.
2022 Pinot Noir Soberanes Vineyard ($70) was mesmerizing with aromas of cherry liqueur, dark plums and freshly picked roses. On the palate, salinity, black cherries, crushed raspberries, baking spice and green tea were framed with bright acidity and silky tannins. The wine was aged for 11 months in 48% new French oak and has the ability to age in the cellar for years.
Pinot Noir from three estate-farmed vineyards, 2022 Pinot Noir Estate Cuvee ($55) is a fresh, lush wine. Rich spice, earth, and dark berry aromas wafted from the glass followed by notes of herbs, sage, black tea, vanilla and more berries on the palate. Fresh and flavorful, racy acidity and soft tannins provided a firm foundation to this brilliant wine that was aged for 11 months in 53% new oak.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
“A man without words is a man without thought.”
― John Steinbeck, East of Eden
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