Chilled white wines were poured and on the table as our group of journalists swirled, sipped and learned about Cantina Tramin, a highly regarded wine cooperative in Tramin, Alto Adige in northern Italy. Established in 1898, Cantina Tramin is noted for its quality whites cultivated in cool climate vineyards at 750-2800 feet above sea level. Thanks to its proximity to the mountains, the winds from Lake Garda and diurnal shift of temperatures, these wines are those of distinction. Winemaker Willi Stürz and Sales Director Wolfgang Klotz led us through a tasting of five white wines that proved, with each sip, how each reflects the heart of its location and heritage.
Photo Credit: Cantina Tramin
Cantina Tramin was founded due to “a small project with a few families initiated by Christian Schrott, parish priest of Termeno and deputy of the Austrian Parliament, to ensure a livelihood and a future for mountain winegrowers.” Wolfgang Klotz explained that Alto Adige has a long history of viticulture – more than 2000 years – and in the Middle Ages, “it was often named as one of the prestigious wine growing areas, at least in the German speaking world.” Grape growers understood the potential for white wines; in the Middle Ages, production was 75% white.
In 1971, Cantina Tramin merged with another historic winery, Cantina Sociale di Egna, established in 1893. With this merger, the “heritage of traditions and vineyards in a single cooperative” continues. Winemaker Willi Stürz became an integral part of the team in the 1990s after which the production of high quality wines was initiated with a goal of “excellence.” Klotz shared that whereas in the 1980s 85% of the production was bulk wine of Schiava, “we really started to focus on reducing the yield and to replant almost the whole surface of our viticulture by selecting every single parcel by the 1990s. So, reducing the yield and focusing on quality was the right thing to do.”
Now, the cooperative consists of 160 families who farm parcels within 270 hectares while adhering to the philosophies of “life and work, rigor, dedication, trust and creativity.” 1.9 million bottles per year are produced with 70% earmarked for the domestic market and 30% for foreign markets.
The Selection portfolio of wines includes Epokale, Troy, Nussbaumer, Terminum, Unterebner, Stoan, Maglen, Urban and Loam; they are the “expression of varietals and terroir from the most premium vineyards.” In short, this reflection of the environment is a beacon of Cantina Tramin. “We are really in the in the heart of the Alps,” stated Wolfgang Klotz. “We have this open space and so we get that very unique combination of the Alpine cool climate area surrounding the area and this open space with 300 sunny days a year giving the area a Mediterranean climate.”
Photo Credit: Cantina Tramin
About the wines… Just delicious on a warm summer evening was Pinot Grigio Classico 2022 cultivated on calcareous clay and gravel soils in vineyards 250-400 meters above sea level and aged in stainless steel. Showcasing the true varietal of Pinot Grigio, this can be sipped as an aperitif or paired with a cheese plate, chicken salad sandwiches, seafood or light pasta dishes. I found a classic mountain freshness due to the location of the vineyards, aromas of juicy peaches and pears, then delicate yet rich flavors on the palate. Winemaker Willi Stürz shared that the Pinot Grigio Classico 2022 can age for a few years.
From vineyards with a higher altitude of 500-600 meters and with a high concentration of clay is Unterebner Pinot Grigio 2022. This rich, complex wine was aged in large oak casks and French tonneaux for one year and bottle aged for a few months. Rich and complex with Cantina Tramin’s signature freshness, aromas and flavors of spice, buttery notes, fruit, the minerality on the finish were remarkable. By all accounts, the wine is able to age “easily 10 years or more but the best time to enjoy it might be 4-7 years,” stated Willi. However, I couldn’t wait that long! Our dinner guests opened the Unterebner Pinot Grigio 2022 with a surprise pairing: grilled pork chops with sauce – just delicious!
Gaining much success in the Cantina Tramin portfolio is Stoan 2022. A blend of mostly Chardonnay then Sauvignon Blanc and a touch of Pinot Bianco and Gewürztraminer grown on soils that are gravelly to rocky with limestone, loam and minerals and at an elevation of 500 meters, the wine is striking. Aromas of ripe peaches, apricots, pears, white flowers and jasmine were a mesmerizing entry. On the lush, creamy palate, I found notes of spice, orchard fruit and breezy minerality leading to a lasting finish. Willi feels that the wine is interesting because of the blend. “On the palate, the elegance and the beautiful mouthfeel of the Chardonnay comes over the chromatic varieties that soon disappear. Then, Chardonnay plays its role in the ballad on the mouth,” he stated.
In the local language of the region’s predecessors, Troy means “path or trail.” Willi explained that Troy 2020 is “our path from Chardonnay starting on the very basic level to then grow in quality and get to this point. Chardonnay in the area is very important. We have more than 150 years of history on this variety and it’s the second most planted in the area.” Alpine character exudes on the intensely complex nose and palate boasting ripe notes of banana, melon, tropical fruit mint and hazelnuts on a foundation of classic freshness and minerality. Willi added, “it works like a mirror on the single area to really bring the characteristics of the air into the glass.”
Our final wine was stunning, Nussbaumer Gewurztraminer 2022. As the winery’s most historic and well-known label, Willi shared that “what makes this wine so unique is the balance, something very important in Gewurztraminer.” Apparently, others think so, too – it’s Italy’s most awarded Gewurztraminer. The wine is aged in small steel tanks with lees contact after which it rests in the bottle for another 3 months. Total maturation time is at least 14 months. A brilliant array of aromas included spice, roses, yellow stone fruits, ginger, baking spice and herbs. The well structured palate was intense and rich with more bright juicy fruit, salinity and minerality. The finish lasted forever! A true food wine, Nussbaumer 2022 was a magnificent pairing with swordfish steaks with a ginger based sauce but can also be enjoyed with smoked foods, ripe soft cheeses, white meat, seafood and of course, spicy Asian cuisine.
What better way to understand the essence of Cantina Tramin than to sip selections of their premium wines and understand its story? I’m raising another glass to that.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
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