By now, the savvy winelover knows that wine is produced in the state of Michigan. With around 200 wineries scattered throughout five AVAs (Fennville, Leelanau Peninsula, Lake Michigan Shore, Old Mission Peninsula and Tip of the Mitt), its wine industry garners more than $6.33 billion per year, according to a statement on the Michigan Wine Country website. Although I haven’t tasted a vast amount of wines from the state, I have had those from a handful of wineries during my travels.
My latest journey took me Traverse City, then to the Leelanau Peninsula where my husband and I spent a warm, sunny morning at Aurora Cellars, a family owned and operated boutique winery producing award-winning cool climate wines from all estate grown grapes. Their sister winery, Good Harbor Vineyards, is located a few miles west, towards Leland, Michigan.
The Leelanau Peninsula
The Leelanau Peninsula in northwestern Lower Michigan became the state’s second AVA when it was approved in 1982. It is situated on the 45th parallel that includes world class regions of Piemonte in Italy, Bordeaux in France and the Willamette Valley in Oregon.
On the Peninsula, there is a diverse terroir of hills, valleys, forests, meadows, sand dunes, orchards and vineyards. Noted are freshwater areas in bogs, springs, creeks, rivers, inland lakes and the Great Lakes. Lake Michigan and Grand Traverse Bay (if they don’t completely freeze!) moderate the temperatures with late springs, long falls and warmer winters. Thanks to large amounts of snow cover, vines are protected with this natural insulation throughout the winter months. Vineyard soils tend to be of well-drained sandy loam; vines are deeply rooted.
What I found was that the views along the Peninsula’s 100+ miles of shoreline pair beautifully with a glass of wine.
Aurora Cellars and Good Harbor Vineyards
From Traverse City, Aurora Cellars (7788 East Horn Road, Lake Leelanau) is a relaxing 20-minute drive through quaint lakeside villages offering views of Grand Traverse Bay. Owned and operated by the dynamic sister and brother team of Taylor and Sam Simpson, the two were joined by seasoned Head Winemaker Drew Perry for our tour and tasting. Sparkling, white and red wines were poured and sipped in their comfortable tasting room with vineyard views and a European vibe.
The Simpson family has been farming on the Leelanau Peninsula since 1956. Aurora Cellars, producing fewer than 10K cases per year, was founded in 1980 and is part of the Simpson Family Estates that also includes Good Harbor Vineyards. The Aurora Cellars property is distinctive due to the fact that it’s composed of almost all hard compact clay soil on rolling hills.
The majority of Good Harbor Vineyards’ acreage is 5 miles from Lake Michigan and within the Good Harbor Basin. It consists of high elevation parcels with southwest facing slopes. Grapes in four estate vineyards of 60 acres are cultivated; the Simpson family has long term leases with four other vineyards from which they source grapes. Wines produced include red, white, sweet, and sparkling at varying price points to suit any taste and budget. Approximately 20K cases per year of wines include Albarino, Pinot Blanc to Brut, Dry Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Noir, Zweigelt, and Cabernet Franc.
Selected Wines of Aurora Cellars and Good Harbor Vineyards
Taylor, Sam and Drew stated that the mission at Aurora Cellars is to “produce world class, cool climate wines with a focus on red varieties.” However, sparkling wines produced using the Charmat method are memorable and white wines tasted were flavorful and food friendly, too. Our tasting consisted of a selection wines from both Aurora Cellars and Good Harbor Vineyards. Below are some of my favorites.
A few sips of Aurora Cellars Sparkling Brut Rose ($34), of Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay, was a delicious way to begin, thanks to its lovely effervescence and notes of cherries and raspberries leading to a lingering fruit finish. Good Harbor Vineyards Blanc de Noir ($34), 100% Pinot Noir, was rich, savory and balanced with fresh fruit notes. In an extra-dry style was Good Harbor Vineyards Blanc to Blanc ($34) of 100% Chardonnay. Refreshing and flavorful this bubbly is yet another award winner for Aurora Cellars.
Bright citrus notes, salinity and minerality were features of Aurora Cellars Sauvignon Blanc 2023, available to wine club members only. Peaches and lemon zest notes with snappy acidity were exceptional and this choice would be a memorable pairing with the area’s signature smoked whitefish pate! Ahhh, snappy Aurora Cellars Gruner Veltliner 2021 ($24) exuded notes of spice, white pepper, lime and melon.
Our first red wine was Aurora Cellars Blaufränkisch 2020 ($48), an award winning wine lauded by the TexSom International Wine Competition and San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. It also garnered high points from Wine Enthusiast and was a winner in the Jefferson Cup Invitational Wine Competition. Estate grown Lemberger offered lush notes of pepper and blueberries leading to a lasting finish. Last but not least was an elegant, generous Aurora Cellars Cabernet Franc 2018 ($55) with its subtle notes of blackberries, dark plums and herbs framed by moderate acidity and tannic structure.
During our conversation, Sam stated, “If you’re going to do something, do it better than anyone else” and it seemed that that he was right. Yet, after the tasting, we visited a few more wineries to discover if Sam, Taylor and Drew really are on the right path to achieving that goal. The result? They are. If you’re on the fence about trying wines from Michigan and specifically the Leelanau Peninsula, find an intriguing bottle from my latest rare finds, Aurora Cellars or Good Harbor Vineyards.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
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