It was an easy decision to plan to arrive in Verona two days before my media trip experiences at Garda DOC in early June. Having never visited this talked-about city, I wanted to stroll the streets, envelop myself in its history, taste some traditional dishes with local wines, relax in the moment and embrace the magic. The result? Success on all counts (and I even picked up a few surprises at the bustling outside market at Piazza delle Erbe). One of the many highlights was finding Bottega del Vini (Vicolo Scudo di Francia, 3, Verona) after glancing down a small pedestrian street off one of the popular shopping thoroughfares.
The sign beckoned and I walked towards the entrance that offered a glimpse of hungry and thirsty guests, a dark wood bar, and a glimmer of light from beautiful chandeliers. Of course I walked inside – Bottega del Vini is enchanting.
Bottega del Vini is recognized by the Locali Storici d’Italia association as one of the oldest historical establishments in Italy. Dating back to the 15th century, it was known as Osteria lo Scudo di Francia at which the French consulate maintained space on the top floor. In the 1800s, under the Austro-Hungarian Empire, the name changed to Osteria Biedermeier and the décor continues to reflect Upper Bavarian influences.
The current name was determined 134 years ago, in 1890. Ownership changed from its inception and after 1986 when Severino Barzan and Raffaelo Cedro became owners, Bottega del Vino became the go-to spot for wine lovers throughout the world thanks to Barzan’s international connections and wine acumen. Almost 25 years later, this mecca was purchased by “Famiglie Storiche,” an association of iconic wine producing families including Allegrini, Begali, Brigaldara, Guerrieri Rizzardi, Masi, Musella, Speri, Tedeschi, Tenuta Sant’Antonio, Tommasi, Torre D’Or-ti, Venturini and Zenato. Their goal at the inception and even now is to give life to such an important establishment representing Veronese history and culture.
Bottega del Vini is a place you can’t miss when you visit Verona. Frankly, the magic draws you in, as it did me. It’s intriguing to understand that it has been through two world wars and a plethora of local events, all the while serving wine and food, offering a place for conversation on art, culture (and any other topic!), and creating the stage for instant friendship among an international crowd.
I settled in on a chair built long ago next to a dark wood table near the bar. With an extensive international wine by the glass menu of about 30 labels plus many from Famiglie Storiche producers displayed on a large chalkboard, of course I asked for a chilled glass of wine from the region. Perfect.
Since 2004, Bottega del Vini has been the recipient of Wine Spectator’s Grand Award and is one of the few Italian restaurants to receive this accolade. As luck would have it, I was offered a visit down the stone steps to the 20,000+ bottle wine cellar with wines from around the world. One of the most beautiful cellars I’ve seen, the chandeliers gave a warm glow to the bottles and a room for private discussions and meals was nestled among the racks and shelves.
After returning to my table, I asked for another wine to enjoy while soaking up the energetic atmosphere. The crowd around me was lively and eclectic – from an older couple laden with shopping bags to young business men enjoying lunch to two American ladies who were lured inside… like me. Servers were cheerful, professional and accommodating and honestly, the comforting atmosphere made me feel as if I had been a regular visitor for years.
Will I return to Bottega del Vini during my next visit to Verona and surrounds? Of course – and I’ll bring others, too. The magical place and those who work there are for anyone who relishes a unique venue that reflects a storied history and values an international crowd. And yes, there’s plenty of superior wine with which to begin the conversation. Quite simply, settling in to Bottega del Vini for a couple of hours will make you joyous that you are, in fact, right there in the moment.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
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