Nestled in Italy’s Eastern Calabria, termed the “Land of Wine” by the Greeks who settled there centuries ago, is Librandi, a renowned winery currently run by its third generation. A few weeks ago, I had the honor to be part of a virtual wine education and tasting experience with Paolo Librandi who shared the family’s fascinating story and notable wines of native grapes such as Gaglioppo for red wines and Greco for white wines. Paolo made it clear that “authenticity is not invented, it’s here forever” and the essence of Calabria is in each sip.
Raffaele Librandi, Paolo’s grandfather, founded Librandi in 1953. His sons, Antonio and Nicodemo Librandi led Librandi until 2012 when third generation members Raffaele, Paolo, Francesco and Teresa became at the helm from vineyard management to marketing. Walter Librandi covers the bottling business and Daniela Librandi is part of the corporate structure. At the center of their project is “the viticultural vocation and the close relationship with the territory.”
In the early 1980s, when social cooperatives dominated the market, Antonio and Nicodemo Librandi made the decision to invest in international grape varieties. Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc were produced. Through the years, the family made investments and made the conscious decision to “increase the quality of native wines.”
Photo Credit: Librandi.it
We started from tradition, from Gaglioppo, from Greco and from the large quantity of native varieties present in the territory of our region. We started from the sapling and rootstocks historically used in the area, as well as from the teachings of our expert winemakers with their skill that has its roots in the centuries of winemaking history of Cirotano.
We then turned to the leading experts in the viticultural and oenological sector, because we knew that a meticulous research work would allow us to fix, preserve and enhance our viticultural heritage. In fact, this has always been our goal and our request to the scientific community. Far from wanting to invent or change anything, through science we simply wanted to better and definitively understand what great things we had at our disposal. Librandi
Now, 75% of plantings at Librandi are indigenous grapes and 25% are international varietals. In the 1950s, Raffaele Librandi began with 6 hectares; the third generation is now responsible for 6 estates with 80 hectares of olive groves and a total of 232 hectares producing 2.5 million bottles per year. 55% of wines are sold in Italy, 45% are exported to 34 different markets.
Photo Credit: Librandi.it
Paolo Librandi noted the importance of sustainability. He shared that Librandi has three years of certification from Equalitus, a standard designed for the wine sector with requirements relating to three pillars: social, environmental and economic. Just published is their 2024 Sustainability Report that offers a comprehensive overview of Librandi’s latest environmental, social and economic initiatives. “In particular, the document testifies the Librandi family’s deep commitment to territorial specificity and the preservation of native grape varieties, a cornerstone of the company’s philosophy since its inception.” The report also focuses on Librandi’s social commitment towards stakeholders and the local community, its biodiversity protection in the vineyard, innovative agricultural practices to temper the effects of climate change, and efforts to preserve fauna, large stretches of woods and Mediterranean scrubs. If interested, please read the full report HERE.
Nine labels from Librandi are exported to the United States; our group tasted six. Segno Librandi Ciro Bianco DOC Ciro of Greco was a bright, lively white wine with aromas of stone fruit, lemons, limes, peaches and sweet pears. Zesty acidity and notes of breezy salinity, green apple and tropical fruit were refreshing and savory. Critone 2023 IGT Calabria is 90% Chardonnay and 10% Sauvignon Blanc. Paolo remarked that this is “our top-selling wine” with 50 hectares from the estate producing the varietals. Intense floral aromas, minerality, ripe orchard fruit, kiwi, and lime zest were fresh and savory.
Open a bottle of Segno Librandi Ciro DOC Rosato and get ready for afternoon sipping. This easy drinking wine is one we can take to the beach and even consider as a light red wine. Rose petals, minerality and plenty of garden blossoms were lovely on the nose. Bright acidity, red fruit and a lingering finish were luscious with a fresh salad and a vegetarian pizza.
One of my new favorite wines, Segno Librandi Ciro Rosso DOC Ciro of Gaglioppo is a classic with burgers still sizzling from the grill or even roasted salmon. Aged in stainless steel, this is the traditional style of Gaglioppo with a light, see-through color, dark red fruit forward aromas and flavors, soft tannins and moderate acidity. Paolo also suggested pairing the Ciro Rosso with “the basics – pizza and pasta.”
Duco Sanfelice Ciro Riserva Rosso Classico Superiore DOC is Paolo’s “heart’s wine” from the oldest estate founded by his grandfather. An “afternoon red,” this is a light and easy drinking 100% Gaglioppo with moderate acidity and tannic structure, dark red fruit and a snappy finish.
Our last taste was Gravello 2020 IGT Calabria, Librandi’s flagship wine of the best grapes cultivated in their Arcidiaconato Estate. Of 60% Gaglioppo and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, Paolo shared that this wine “represents our turning point.” Balanced with elegance, structure and savory red fruit notes on the nose and palate, this wine was exceptional.
Exploring wine regions that are “off the beaten path” is one of my best-loved endeavors and Calabria is no exception. The story and wines of Librandi continue to inspire and I look forward to learning and tasting even more. In the family’s words, “we know that some of the most beautiful pages of Calabrian oenology have yet to be written.” Agreed.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
For more Grape Experiences, your free infographic “4 Keys to a Stellar Wine Pick” and a coupon code towards your purchase of my online course “Discover the Essentials of Wine (and choose it like a pro!)” click here.
