After visiting Piemonte a few years ago and understanding more about the Moscato Bianco grape and its varied styles, it was a pleasure to learn about a unique project at Cadgal, tucked in the breathtaking hills of Monferrato and the Langhe. The priority at the winery is to “redefine the identity boundaries of Moscato d’Asti” by emphasizing its complexity and uncanny ability to age. The location offers wines from Cadgal a distinct profile that is already causing a buzz in Piemonte and the international wine scene.
To discover more about the new endeavor, I attended a virtual tasting with a handful of journalists and Alessandro Varagnolo who, together with the newly established La Cova, purchased Ca’D’Gal’s organic estates and vineyards from previous owner Alessandro Boido in 2022. With a background in economics and international business and consulting, Alessandro Vagnoli decided to start a new chapter in his life and to realize his dream by planting his own roots in this stunning part of Italy. For a year, Alessandro Boido shared with Varagnolo extensive knowledge of the region and the estates based on his broad experience. Now, with new ownership, Cadgal has been given “a boost of new energy!”
Alessandro Varagnolo – Photo Credit: Cadgal
We dream of being a beacon of innovation and quality in the world of winemaking, recognized for our relentless commitment to perfecting the arts of vinification. Guided by tradition and inspired by the avant-garde, we aim to become a prestigious wine tourism destination, where the beauty of the land and the passion for wine merge to create experiences that surprise and inspire. Alessandro Varagnolo
What better way to explore the project than to taste six wines from Cadgal (sent as samples)? Traditional wine styles of Moscato Bianco were tasted after which two elegant still wines were enjoyed.
Alessandro explained that the label on the Asti Spumante DOCG was created by a local painter who wanted to represent the wine as not just for desserts, but as an aperitivo or as a pairing with shrimp, oysters and other seafoods. Thanks to its salinity and brilliant balance between acidity and sugar the Asti is able to complement these dishes. From young vines up to 45 years old, the wines are bottled three times a year, based on consumer requests.
Creamy and smooth with a delightful freshness and persistent bubbles, I found lovely aromas of peaches and green moss leading to flavors of citrus and sage. Produced using the Charmat method whereby the second fermentation is in stainless steel tanks, 7K bottles were produced.
The word “lumine” in Moscato d’Asti DOCG Lumine 2023 indicates “light,” a crucial element in the region. Notable aromas of acacia, sage and moss segued into flavors of apricots, peaches and green apples framed with lively bubbles, freshness and the slightest hint of sweetness. Alessandro suggested pairing the wine with desserts, berries and panna cotta. 60K bottle are produced.
From Canelli, a newer appellation, Moscato d’Asti Canelli DOCG S. Ilario 2022 is from grapes cultivated from 70 years old vines on sandy/mineral soils. A rich, complex wine with notes of yellow peaches, apricots, pears and herbs on the nose, flavors were lush, slightly sweet and punctuated by vibrant bubbles. The lingering finish hinted at the wine’s ability to complement savory fare such as oysters, raw fish and aged cheeses. Bottled once a year, 10K bottles are produced.
Moscato d’Asti DOCG Vite Vecchia 2016 is made with a procedure harkening to the days of Alessandro’s grandparents. From 70+ year old vines planted with a southeast exposure on 1 hectare, once bottled, the wine is placed for 60 months in cases filled with sand, in conditions of darkness, humidity, and isolation. As a result, the wine was broad and lush with aromas of citrus, mint, balsamic and honey followed by bright acidity, delicate bubbles and a hint of caramel on the palate. It’s considered a perfect wine to cellar for over 15 years and sip with raw fish, foie gras, aged salamis and old cheeses. The Vite Vecchia is only produced in optimal years; 5K bottles were produced from the 2016 vintage year.
As a bonus, we tasted two still wines of fresh, elegant Sauvignon and Chardonnay, a “combination of heart and wine” according to Alessandro. Both represent local vineyard soils with their minerality, salinity and sapidity.
Piemonte DOC Sauvignon 2023 showed floral, herbal, lemon, stone fruit and hint of lime notes on the nose. Flavors were round, fresh and savory with elements of ripe orchard fruit, sage and dill. The wine was aged in stainless steel. I sipped the Sauvignon with paninis one day at lunch then an array of cheeses and a fresh salad the next. Truly, a taste sensation. Piemonte DOC Chardonnay 2023 burst with aromas of banana, yellow flowers and bright citrus. Savory and herbal on the round palate, food friendly acidity and balance were notable. This wine was luscious with pasta with white sauce and a homemade pizza margherita.
Alessandro Varagnola and the team at Cadgal are committed to high quality wine production as well as a “refined hospitality concept” that I look forward to learning more about. For details about this fascinating winery, visit their website HERE.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
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