One country that has always intrigued me is Australia. From what I’ve heard, stunning natural environments including mountains and coastlines, a lauded culture of culinary delights, welcoming people in country towns and vibrant city life are enticing. And the wines that I’ve tasted through the years have been quite good; many have been those I’ve purchased again and again.
When I was invited to participate in a virtual learning and tasting experience (wines were sent as samples) with Kim Chalmers from Chalmers Wines, Matt Fowles of Fowles Wine, Brenden Hawker from Yering Station and moderator Christina Pickard, former Australian resident and contributing editor for Wine Enthusiast magazine, focusing on Australian wines, I jumped at the chance. So much to discover!
About Victoria, Australia
Victoria is a rather small state in comparison to other regions in Australia and is about the size of Texas. Found in the southeast corner of this vast continent, the area covers nearly 90,000 square miles of land, is about a fourth of the size of South Australia and a third of the size of New South Wales to the north. In Victoria, there are 21 wine regions encompassing 54,000 miles of vineyards consisting of around 800 family vineyards.
However, Victoria is Australia’s third most productive wine region behind the aforementioned regions. Why third? There is a lack of irrigated areas for bulk production and quality over quantity is the mantra of winemakers and winery owners. Small, boutique wineries along with large producers can be found producing premium wines.
Diversity in grape varieties cultivated reflects the range of different climate and soil types in Victoria’s unique regions. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Nebbiolo, Pinot Grigio/Gris, Vermentino, Muscat and so many more are found within such a small area. The most well known regions are Yarra Valley, Rutherglen and Mornington Peninsula, but perhaps you’ve heard of Alpine Valleys, Beechworth, Geelong, Goulburn Valley, Grampians and Heathcote. How about King Valley and Murray Darling?
*quote*Thanks to the discovery of gold in the 1850s, settlers around the globe and especially from Europe rushed to the region. They brought grapevines and knowledge of viticulture and subsequently, the wine industry was started. Although Victoria produced half of all Australian wines by 1890, phylloxera in the late 19th century, World War I and other factors affected the industry. It wasn’t until the 1960s when wine production began again in earnest.
To put the region and wines of Victoria in perspective, our group of avid learners tasted five choices.
Five Quality Wines from Victoria, Australia
Chalmers 2022 Vermentino ($30) is from grapes grown in Heathcote on red cambrian soil. Ken Chalmers, Winemaker, feels that “varieties like Vermentino are the key to sustainable winemaking in Australia” and 2022 is Chalmer’s 20th vintage of this wine. Vegan friendly, this fresh, snappy wine burst with stone fruit, white flowers, Meyer lemon peel and a spritz of lime. On the palate, bright acidity, juicy pears and hint of pine nuts led to a lingering finish. A perfect choice with fish and chips (of course!), seafood, brunch fare, sushi and Thai food.
Yering Station Shiraz Viognier 2020 ($34.99) if from Yarra Valley, a region with rolling hills, a continental climate and a bustling tourism business. Of 97% Shiraz and a mere 3% Viognier grown on gray loam over yellow clay, aromas of plum, cranberries, spice and florals were intense. Flavors of rich concentrated fruit, more spice and oak were on a foundation of solid tannins and moderate acidity. This blend was aged for 15 months in French oak and was exceptional with grilled mesquite port tenderloin.
If the name itself doesn’t compel you to learn more, the first sip will! Ladies Who Shoot Their Lunch Pinot Noir 2021 ($34.99) from Fowles Wines was from grapes located in the Strathbogle Ranges. Winemaker Matt Fowles passion for hunting and gathering “have been crafted to complement the textures and flavors of wild food.” Cue the roasted elk! On the nose, I found fresh red berries, mushrooms, oak and spice. This medium bodied wine offered balance and structure, food friendly acidity, soft tannins and a luscious finish.
As an example of quality and affordability, Farm to Table Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($18) from Strathbogle Ranges was remarkable. In fact, it was stated that “it’s a great time to buy Australian Cabernet and Victoria is where to start.” Agreed. Lovely aromas of blackberries, anise, vanilla and oak led to a palate rife with broad flavors of dried herbs, dark cherries, plums, chocolate and more blackberries. Just 7% of Merlot was blended with the Cabernet by winemakers Sam Atherton and Tegan Clydesdale.
A classy way to end our tasting was a fortified wine from Rutherglen, Chambers Rosewood Vineyards Rutherglen Muscadelle ($22). The region is in the northeast of Victoria and is know for its fortified wines and Mediterranean climate. In fact, some of the oldest wineries dating to the mid-19th century, are found here.
And the wine? Just wow! Of 4000 cases produced, only a small amount are exported to the United States, so start your search. It’s considered an entry level to the winery’s Muscadelle Range and is bottled on demand to ensure quality. Made in the topaque style, grapes are semi-raisined on the vine, partially fermented and then fortified with grape spirit prior to being in a program that is not unlike a Sherry solera crossed with a Madeira estufagem. In the late 1990s, winemakers of Rutherglen grouped together to create a four-tier nomenclature for Muscat (and Topaque). At the bottom is Rutherglen Muscat, next is Classic, then Grand and finally Rare. The system guarantees the style which is progressively richer and more more complex the higher the tier. This beauty was fresh, fruity and aromatic with notes of honey, caramel, crème brulee, dried orange citrus fruit, and touch of green tea. Have a few sips with fois gras, bleu cheese, soft cheeses or any caramel dessert. Quite special indeed.
We’re off to Victoria, Australia one sip at a time!
Cheers! ~ Cindy
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