In the world of wines, there exists a unique jewel named Madeira, an intriguing creation that bears the name of both an island and a libation. It’s a place wrapped in the rich history of Portugal, yet hugging the shores of Morocco, adding a touch of mystery to its identity.
Madeira is 320 miles west of Morocco, 205 miles north of the Canary Islands and 500 miles from Lisbon, Portugal. Though geologically rooted in the African Tectonic Plate, its population predominantly reflects Portuguese ancestry, connecting Madeira to its European heritage.
Photo Credit: Brittanica
Intriguing Madeira
This fortified wine, synonymous with the island’s name, holds a secret within its production process. Unlike traditional winemaking standards, Madeira halts fermentation with a potent 96% alcohol and uses the processes of heat and oxidation.
The story of Madeira’s unconventional journey began in the 1600s and 1700s when the island served as a crucial stopover on maritime voyages. To withstand the rigors of sea travel, Madeira’s wine was fortified, enduring extreme conditions of heating, cooling, and exposure to oxygen. Surprisingly, the wine not only survived but offered an enhanced flavor profile upon reaching its destination.
Fast forward to today, when the process is replicated. Grapes are harvested and fermented in stainless steel tanks, a familiar sight in the wine industry. Fermentation halts abruptly with the introduction of the neutral grape spirit, bringing the alcohol content to a robust 17.5% to 21%.
The aging process, however, is where Madeira truly sets itself apart. First, there’s oxidative aging – the wine rests in porous old oak casks, only half-filled to intensify its exposure to oxygen. Then comes the surprising twist – the heating. Unlike traditional wineries that keep their cellars cool, Madeira’s cellars embrace warmth. The “estufajes,” stainless steel tanks, swiftly heat the wine, while the Canteiro system allows a slow warming and oxygen exposure over the years.
Interestingly enough, the heat pasteurizes and the air oxidizes the wine. These are the very elements that infuse Madeira with character during the aging process. For more, view the latest Crush On This video about Madeira by clicking here.
Styles of Madeira range from dry to sweet. Wines do not have primary aromas of fresh fruits but rather secondary and tertiary aromas, thanks to the unique production technique. The six grapes of Madeira are: Sercial, Verdelho, Bual, Malvasia, Tinta Negra, and Terrantez. Stylistically there are four levels of sweetness, yet no matter the level of sweetness in Madeira, one of its signature characteristics is acidity. This bright, fresh acidity extends to the finish and cuts the sugar. The acidity also makes Madeira an unexpected choice to pair with a variety of foods.
Wines of Madeira
Recently, I had the chance to taste four very special wines from Madeira given to me as samples. Each has a specific style and one (or more) will satisfy the wine lover’s palate.
Sercial produces a dry Madeira and one worth tasting is Blandy’s 10 Years Sercial ($37). Absolutely lovely, the Madeira offered vibrant acidity and lush notes of green grass, nuts and citrus on the nose and palate. Pair with sushi, salads, charcuterie and olives or sip as an aperitif. Today the company is run by Michael and Chris Blandy, sixth and seventh generation members. The Blandy family owns three properties on the island consisting of seven hectares producing white grapes only. In addition, they work with 400 growers on the island, for a total of 450 hectares.
Verdelho is produced in a semi-dry style. Lately, I tasted Vinhos Barbeito Savannah Verdelho Special Reserve ($60) and was impressed by notes of orange peel and guava on the nose and palate. The bright acidity and round mouthfeel complemented raw oysters and creamy butternut squash soup. Barbeito Madeira was founded in 1946 by Mario Barbeito, an accountant. Now, his grandson, Ricardo Freitas, created the Historic Series, of which this wine is a part, named after Port cities where Madeira was consumed in the 1800s.
Bual is found in a medium-sweet style. Justinos 10 Years Old Bual ($55) was a mouthwatering combination when sipped with chocolate, cheeses and tropical fruits. Lush notes of caramel, toffee, honey, nuts, brown sugar and figs on the nose and palate were exceptional. This Madeira is from one of the oldest companies and largest producer on the island. Justino Henrique Freitas founded the company in 1870 and it was sold in 1981 to Colonel Siegfredo da Costa Campos who was responsible for its renovation. Currently, Justino’s is owned by French company La Martiniquaise.
Malvasia, also known as Malmsey, produces a sweet Madeira. Henriques & Henriques Single Harvest Malvasia 2001 ($112) burst with aromas and flavors of molasses, caramelized almonds, brown sugar, cinnamon and pungent acidity. It provided an extravagant pairing with gingerbread, molasses spice cake and espresso. Henriques was organized in 1950 after which a partnership between his sons began in 1912. The company was passsed on to friends and partners in 1968, including Peter Cossart who made 53 vintages.
Two additional grapes, of which I haven’t yet tasted but hope to soon, are Terrantez and Tinta Negra. Terrantez was nearly extinct and has notes of white almonds and dried fruits along with the richness and structure of Bual and the acidity of Verdelho. Tinta Negra is the only red grape grown throughout Madeira. It produces dry, medium-dry, medium-sweet and sweet wines.
Perhas the most robust wine in the world, Madeira is indestructible – you can open a bottle today, reopen it again in five years (or 20!) and enjoy a fresh wine. Madeira is a classic example of how innovation and tradition align with ancient techniques and contemporary craftanship.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
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