Recently, I spent several days in Sicily attending Etna Days 2023. The fascinating trip was rife with wine education experiences, luscious lunches and dinners with wines (of course!), visits to large and small wineries… and everything in between. Following Etna Days, I spent another week in Sicily with a good friend in order to put my new-found knowledge of Etna wines to the test. Between visits to ancient archeological sites, an exquisite opera performance, a cooking class, museums, and even the coast for a dip in the sea, I tasted a bounty of wine and classic Sicilian fare.
Etna DOC
Many have suggested that the area of Etna is “an island within an island” due in part to the fact that viticulture on the volcano is markedly different from the rest of Sicily. There are five different sides for viticulture – north, northeast, east, southeast and south – shaped in a semi-circle in a clockwise direction around the volcano.
Production areas cover 20 municipalities and include 133 Contrade, small production sub-zones instituted in 2011 and updated in 2022 to reflect results from recent topographical surveys. Etna boasts some of the oldest cultivated vineyards in Italy. Many are more than 100 years old and some are are free-standing.
Thanks to the volcano’s constant activity, different volcanic soils are of pebbles, gravel, sand and chalk and are rich in complex minerals. The mountain’s elevation, 3300 meters, is the highest in Sicily. Found there are microclimates – xeric, Mediterranean, mountain and Alpine – that are unique with varying exposures, altitude, rainfall, temperatures with diurnal swings, and types of volcanic soil. As a result of Mt. Etna’s proximity to the Mediterranean seas, marine influence is noted. Bottom line? Wines from Etna express characteristics all their own.
The wines of Etna were recognized as a DOC in 1968. It was the first DOC in Sicily and among the first in all of Italy. Current production regulations admit Etna Bianco, Etna Bianco Superiore, Etna Rosato, Etna Rosso, Etna Rosso Riserva, Etna Spumante Bianco and Etna Spumante Rose. And I had sips of them all. (Quote from Restrained and Racy – Carricante and Catarratto are Indigenous White Grapes of Etna DOC)
Two of the red wines in which I indulged during the almost two weeks in Sicily were those that I had tasted earlier, but not in depth and certainly not with authentic Sicilian cuisine. Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio are two indigenous red grapes of Etna DOC and what I discovered is that they’re worthy of more than one sip.
Nerello Mascalese
The name Nerello Mascalese indicates the color of the grape (nero) and the likely place of origin (Mascali, a commune east of Etna and close to the sea). Nerello Mascalese is believed to be a cross between Sangiovese and Mantonico Bianco and is often compared to Nebbiolo or Pinot Noir. It’s the most widespread native grape variety on the slopes of Mt. Etna and may be blended with Nerello Cappuccio and other varieties. Nerello Mascalese is used to produce Rosato, Spumante, Rosso Riserva and is the key player in Etna Rosso DOC.
Nerello Mascalese is difficult to grow and ripens late – sometimes into early November if the vines are planted on higher slopes of Mt. Etna. With high alcohol content, high acidity levels and fine tannic structure, minerality and freshness, balance and finesse, purity and energy characterize a quality Nerello Mascalese. Wines I tasted in Sicily ranged from those with medium to full body and offered red fruit and at times savory notes and a lingering finish. In fact, whether the wine is young or aged, Nerello Mascalese is a brilliant choice to drink on its own or with food.
Nerello Cappuccio
Typical in the Etna region, Nerello Cappuccio was mentioned in the province of Catania in the 18th century. Not surprisingly, the name Nerello refers to the color (nero) and Cappuccio that derives from the bloom that covers the branches like a cloak (mantello) – the synonym for Nerello Cappuccio is Nerello Mantellato. “Nerello Cappuccio is difficult to grow and there aren’t many producers working with it. However, it’s a necessity for Etna Rosso as a blend with Nerello Mascalese,” states owner, Mario Pauluzi of I Custodi.
The grape ripens earlier and has a softer profile than Nerello Mascalese. On the nose, I discovered herbs and spice along with florals and fruit. Delicate tannins, medium acidity, moderate structure and freshness (a pervasive characteristic of all of the wines of Etna DOC) were lovely. Nerello Cappuccio is included in the production of Etna PDO Rosso, Rosso Riserva, Rosato and Spumante wines. It’s often planted in the same vineyards as Nerello Mascalese and is usually found in blends, although there are exceptions.
Sicilian Cuisine and Red Wines of Etna DOC Complement Each Other
The bounty of fresh and flavorful meats, seafood and vegetables are luscious complements to the wines of Etna DOC. Fortunately, many of my favorite foods (eggplant holding the #1 position) were front and center at almost every meal!
Sips of Nerello Mascalese as a single varietal or with its partner Nerello Cappuccio in the blend offer notes of savory herbs, fruit, florals, food friendly acidity, moderate acidity and a lasting finish. Foods that pair particularly well with the wines are aged cheeses and salami, risotto or ravioli, linguini with clams, swordfish (I indulged in swordfish several times during the trip), sardines, sausage and seasoned meat kabobs. Vegetables are high on my list, too. Any dish with mushrooms (porcini, anyone?), eggplant in any iteration and fresh tomatoes are delicious.
If Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio are new-to-you varietals, you may want to pick up a bottle of Etna Rosso or a single varietal Nerello Mascalese. Enjoy sips with your favorite tomato based pasta dish, eggplant parmesan, mushroom risotto or any of the above suggestions for a true taste of Etna DOC.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
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