In keeping with the proven fact that to learn more about wine we have to taste plenty, I was fortunate to have been sent samples from Storica Wines, the top importer of wines from Armenia to the United States. The three wines were of Areni, a variety native to this storied country believed to be the “birthplace of viticulture.”
Viticulture in Armenia
Armenia is a land locked country located between Turkey, Georgia, Iran, and Azerbaijan. The three regions of grape growing are in Aragatsotn with high altitude vineyards, volcanic soils and a diverse climate, the sunny Ararat Valley with a rocky mix of soils, and Vayots Dzor Province with its extremely high elevation vineyards – almost up to 6000 feet above sea level.
The history of grape growing and winemaking in Armenia dates as far back as the 8th century BC, based on evidence of an Iron Age agricultural system. Other evidence shows the Areni-1 cave, a 6100 year old winery from the Early Bronze Age, as “the oldest excavated winemaking facility in the world.” It “spans several chambers and contains fermentation vats, a wine press, shards of ancient pottery, and more.” Winemaking continued through the Greek and Roman Empires to Medieval times based on artifacts such as manuscripts and mosaics.
Unfortunately, the period of Soviet rule changed viticulture in Armenia. The government required producers to focus on brandy and bulk wine production instead of traditional processes and native grape varieties. Once Armenia re-gained its independence in 1991, however, “a new generation of Armenian winemakers and grape-growers began to revitalize the country’s storied wine culture.”
These innovators are “returning ancient soils and once-neglected vines to health, and re-embracing indigenous wine grapes like Areni and Voskehat. They blend historic traditions with cutting-edge technology and winemaking expertise honed in universities, vineyards, and wineries in Armenia and around the world.”
By all accounts, Armenia produces an abundance of grapes with 30 native varieties currently under vine. High elevation vineyards of 2000-6000 feet above sea level benefit from abundant sunshine and extreme diurnal temperature shifts.
Most soils are volcanic with some areas of limestone and clay, especially in the southern areas of Armenia. The soils offer optimal drainage that helps roots from the vines extend deep under the ground to seek necessary nutrients. They also retain moisture, a characteristic that makes “it suited to climatic shifts.” Because of these elements, the ripening period is extended. The fruit develops thick skins and offers vibrant, concentrated flavors.
Photo Credit: The World or Bust
Three Wines of Areni
Areni is a dark skinned grape and produces full bodied red wines. Thanks to its thick skin, Areni is able to flourish in areas with strong diurnal temperatures and harsh continental climates. With moderate tannins, medium to high acidity and a soft, velvet like texture, Areni is often compared to Pinot Noir or Sangiovese. It is meant to drink young, but high quality wines of Areni may develop complexity as they age for up to 10 years or more. The variety produces sparkling wines as well as still wines.
Storica Wines sent three wines from different producers.
Shofer Areni Rosé, Vayots Dzor 2020 ($21.99) is of 100% Areni. Dry and tart with a crisp, fruit forward mouthfeel, the wine was delightful with goat cheese and honey on crostini appetizers, tzatziki, and almonds.
Zulal Areni Dry Red Wine, Vayots Dzor 2018 ($24.99) was balanced, pure and lush. On the nose I found notes of earth and rich red fruit including dark purple plums. Red cherries, crushed raspberries and pepper were framed with medium acidity and tannic structure. Each sip complemented a juicy lamb burger still sizzling from the grill. What a find!
NOA Dry Red Wine 2019 ($31.99) burst with rich red fruit, herbs, cherries and cedar on the nose. Rustic with moderate acidity and soft tannins, notes of graphite, overripe plums and blackberries were delicious with herb marinated roasted chicken with vegetables and feta cheese. The wine was fermented in stainless steel followed by portions aged in wood barrels.
If you have a chance to find one or more of these well priced wines or a bottle of Areni from a different producer, purchase and pour! Wine education is a wonderful experience.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
