When many think of the most popular wines from Veneto, a northeast region in Italy, Prosecco, Valpolicello, Amarone and Soave likely come to mind. But wait! How many wine lovers are aware that Carménère, traditionally from Bordeaux, is also cultivated in this historic area?
Since 2007, Carménère has been authorized to be used in Italian DOC wines in areas of Veneto including Arcole, Bagnoli di Sopra, Cori Benedettine del Padovano, Garda, Merlara, Monti Lessini, Riviera del Brenta and Vincenza. Surprised? You’re not the only one!
This month, the ItalianFWT (Italian Food Wine Travel) group of writers of which I’m a member, are focusing their latest articles on the region of Veneto. Each of us has chosen a topic and links to their articles follow mine. As you may have already guessed, I’m suggesting that we explore Carménère from Veneto, then savor a delicious and affordable find, Inama Piu Carménère IGT 2020 (sent to me as a sample).
Carménère from Veneto
Carménère is a vine that originated on the Dalmation Coast and during ancient times, spread throughout the Roman Empire. It was cultivated in Bordeaux, but after the phylloxera epidemic in the mid 1800s, Carménère was not replanted and was believed to be extinct. Yet, in 1994, DNA testing revealed that Carménère was in fact, alive and thriving, especially in Chile where it had been mistaken for Merlot.
This deep red grape with soft tannins and medium body was also found in the northeast regions of Italy. In the late 1800s, Carménère was brought to Italy by travelers and was often identified under the name of “Black Bordeaux” or “Old Cabernet.” It was also mistaken as a “degenerated and weaker form of Cabernet Franc.” During the 1960s, professors compared what was known as Cabernet Franc in the Veneto region to Cabernet Franc from France. The differences in both color and taste as well as the times of vine ripening were noted thanks to chemical analyses and ampelographic studies between 1988 and 1991. A few years later, it was scientifically proven that the variety in Veneto was indeed Carménère.
Photo Credit: Inama
Now, we find Carménère in not only Veneto, but in Friuli-Venzia Giulia (Collio or Collio Goriziano) and in Sardinia (Alghero). A ministerial decree from 2009 also allows producers of Piave DOC wines in 50 communes of the Province of Treviso and 12 in the Province of Venice to specify Carménère on the wine label when appropriate.
At Inama, Carménère is Planted in Colli Berici
Inama is the “first estate to create an important project with Carménère in the Colli Berici area and to give an identity to this variety with a new DOC: Colli Berici Carménère Riserva.” All of the estate vineyards produce reserve wines and each season, the Inama team decides which plots will be used for reserve or entry wines. 30 hectares of Carménère, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon have been cultivated and trained using the Guyot system for the last 20 years.
Colli Berici is a few kilometers southeast of the Soave hills, yet it has half the annual rainfall as higher average temperatures than its neighbor, Soave Classico. As a result of bradyseism, whereby the earth’s surface was lifted due to the underlying magmatic pressure, a few eruptions on the border of the area occurred. As a result, “a long regular ridge of sedimentary origin of limestone/marl covered with red clay (clay-like silt that’s rich in iron oxide) was created.”
Photo Credit: Inama
Inama Carménère Piu IGT 2020
At an incredibly reasonable price point of $22, it was a delight to swirl, sip and savor the Inama Carménère Piu IGT 2020 with a charcuterie and cheese board of pancetta, salami and a variety of Italian cheeses. 85% Carménère and 15% Merlot aged for 12 months in used barriques helped create this food friendly wine with vibrant acidity and soft tannic structure. Aromas of chocolate, black pepper and dark berries were followed by flavors of spice, red fruit and herbs, then a lingering, satisfying finish. My next pairing with the wine may be grilled pork, polenta, mushroom and cheese dishes, duck or pasta with beans. Delicious!
The label on the bottle was designed by an artist from San Bonifacio. His intention was to suggest “something young and lively, yet still classic and respectful of the style used for all the other labels. The idea was to design a cherub holding a cornucopia of fruit from which a bunch of red grapes comes out – the Carménère.” Inama
Cheers! ~ Cindy
For more articles from my ItalianFWT colleagues, see links to their articles below.
“Crumbs: Scaia, Pearà, and Mussels alla Buzara” from Camilla at Culinary Cam
“La Gioiosa Brut Rosé & Raspberry Soup” from Andrea at The Quirky Cork
“The Hills Near Verona and the Organic, Biodynamic, and Regenerative wines of Fasoli Gino and Tasi/Crushed Grape Chronicles” from Robin at Crushed Grape Chronicles
“7 Veneto Wines and a Meal with Memories from My Visit: Venice, Verona, Valdobbiadne, Valpolicella, Soave” from Gwendolyn at Wine Predator
“Gambellara, Veneto: A Bubbly Wine & A Revelation!” from Payal at Keep the Peas
“The Custoza Grape of the Veneto with Cantina Gorgo” / Vino Travels” from Jennifer at Vino Travels
“A Taste of Verona, Italy” from Deanna at Wineivore
