It’s not a big secret that when Nonna makes her special pasta, the family gathers around. Growing up in the suburbs of Philadelphia, our across-the-street neighbor from Sicily, began making homemade pasta and cooking her famous pasta gravy at lunchtime. Aromas of herbs, spices and tomatoes wafted down the street during the afternoon and all of us playing outside did our best to garner an invitation to their 5pm dinner. Alas, guests were infrequent visitors at the table since pasta night was family time for the Calderones and their seven children.
Fast forward to earlier this summer when I was a participant in a road trip through Central Italy with four wine writers. Each of us put our boots on the ground and palates to the test when visiting three notable wineries in Tuscany, Umbria and Marche. Among the many revelations during the experiences were the unique pastas and wines for pairing. With each bite and sip, I felt like a part of an Italian family with Nonna (if not Mrs. Calderone) in the kitchen cooking just for me.
Following are pastas and wines from each winery and truth be told, I’m still craving it all. Hopefully, you’re just as inspired as I am to gather your own family around the table and indulge in a luscious bowl of pasta and glass or two of quality wine from any or all of these producers. Cin cin!
I Veroni – Mezze Maniche Pasta and I Domi Chianti Rufina 2021
After a tour of I Veroni, then an epic jeep tour of the vineyards located in Chianti Rufina in Tuscany, our group was ready for lunch. Our first course was Mezze Maniche pasta (meaning half-sleeve) cooked to final perfection by Luca Innocenti, I Veroni’s marketing and sales director. Mezze Maniche pasta is said to be from northern Italy and is used in a plethora of recipes, thanks to its ability to pair with vegetables, meat and seafood. Dried Mezze Maniche pasta tubes are usually, but not always, grooved and are about half the size of rigatoni.
The Mezze Maniche pasta at lunch contained lightly sauteed zucchini nestled within each tube. With nothing more than olive oil, salt and pepper, then dash of parmesan, the dish was deliciously light, yet filling. My favorite wine for pairing was I Domi Chianti Rufina 2021 a balanced blend of Sangiovese, Canaiolo Nero and Colorino. Aromas and flavors of rich red berries and ripe fruit were elegant and structured making it a smart choice to pair with the pasta. Lorenzo Mariani, owner of I Veroni, remarked, “This is perfect for every day drinking if you want to drink well!”
Madrevite – Pici Pasta and Elvé
Our next stop was Madrevite in Cimbano, located in the municipality of Castiglione del Lago in Umbria. Owner Nicola Chiucchiurlotto welcomed our group with a stroll through the vineyards, visit to the winemaking areas, and more than a few glasses of lovely white wines of Trebbiano Spoletino and Grechetto and red varieties of Gamay del Trasimeno (Grenache), Sangiovese, Montepulciano and Syrah.
While we were learning about Madrevite, Nicola’s mother was preparing homemade Pici pasta with her signature red sauce for our group. Pici is an ancient type of pasta originating from Tuscany and many think it may have been present during Etruscan times. Historically, it was a staple for Italian peasants and is traditionally made with only flour, water and salt. Now, it’s made with olive oil or egg added to the dough. Nonna’s pasta we tasted was textured and by all account, made with love. Naturally, each of us had a second serving.
During lunch, an assortment of wines were poured. My favorite with the pasta and flavorful sauce was a chilled glass of Elvé of Grechetto, an unexpected pairing since I thought I would prefer one of the red wines. The Grechetto offered bright acidity and intense aromas and flavors of white fruit and herbs. The finish lingered and gave a snappy, fruit forward finish that I still remember.
Il Conte de Prandone – Maccheroncini di Campofilone Pasta and Marinus Rosso Piceno Superiore 2020
Our group’s last dinner together was with the family of Emmanuel De Angelis, proprietor, winemaker and sales manager of Il Conte Villa Prandone located in the province of Ascoli Piceno in the southern part of Marche. Earlier in the day, we viewed the property, began to understand the family’s history, and had lunch with family members ranging from 4 years old to … (older). Later that day, we visited the beautiful hamlet of Grottamare where we learned its storied history, waved farewell to a newly married couple at a church in the piazza and found Il Borgo, a restaurant with stunning sunset views of the Adriatic Sea and delicious food – moments of nirvana.
Dinner was a showstopper with an array of wines and multiple courses that included a melt-in-your-mouth Maccheroncini di Campofilone, a typical pasta from the Piceno area with tomato sauce and tiny meatballs called “pallottine.” Not unlike many regional pastas, Maccheroncini di Campofilone, often referred to as a type of angel hair pasta because of its extremely thin strands, started in “the kitchens of the poor.” There is evidence that this type of pasta dates to 1400 and the recipe even now mirrors that of centuries ago.
The wine I favored for pairing with the pasta was Marinus Rosso Piceno Superiore 2020. Named after the patriarch of the family, Marin, this wine is considered the most representative of the portfolio. “It’s clear, natural, easy drinking,” stated Emanuelle. In fact, the 2017 vintage of Marinus was listed in Wine Spectator’s Top 100 wines. The light, full-bodied wine from 2020 boasts aromas and flavors of red fruits, berries and black currant on a foundation of soft tannins and vibrant acidity.
This perfect night, a fitting end to a magnificent trip to Central Italy, was punctuated with luscious pasta, wine and family. Inspired? Start cooking and sipping!
Cheers! ~ Cindy
For more about these wineries, enjoy the links below.
At I Veroni in Chianti Rufina, Elegance and Balance Characterize Its Wines
When Exploring Umbria, Visit Madrevite Where Top Rated Classic Wines Thrive
Another Reason to Discover Marche – Il Conte Villa Prandone
