Bulichella Estate Wines Find Their True Expression in Suvereto DOCG

When many think of Tuscany, the small medieval village of Suvereto may not be the first area to come to mind. Until a recent virtual tasting with key players of Bulichella Estate located in charming Suvereto, I rarely gave it a second thought. And now? After learning more from Rachele Micheli, Winery and Sales Manager, and Nicolò (Nico) Miyakawa, family member and co-designer of the wine labels, this jewel of a winery with a story to match is permanently on my radar.

Beautiful Suvereto, I’m coming for you! Found on the slopes peering over the Tyrrhenian Sea and Etruscan coastline, Suvereto, in the Tuscan Livorno region is, by all accounts, a mecca of history and art. Within its walls are cloisters, thermal baths and spas, palazzi, churches, stone houses, time-worn cobblestone streets and people who “keep the place lively and genuine.”

Visitors have found the unique beauty of the area compelling, too. Bulichella was founded by four families in 1983. The patriarch of one of those families is Japanese native and auto designer Hideyuke Miyakawa. By 1999, Hideyuki Miyakawa, his wife Marisa, and their children became sole owners of the property. In essence, their goal was to “merge their passion for winemaking with art and culture.” All members of the Miyakawa family are involved in the business that is Bulichella. Maria Shizuko, daughter is the estate manager, and grandson Nicolò (Nico) Miyakawa and his cousin Orso are the designers of the eye-catching labels. The tasting room is rife with art and color and reflects “company, family, art and culture.” Bulichella remains an organic wine and olive oil farm and now offers agriturismo experiences and lodging. For more, click here.

The story of Hideyuki Miyakawa is fascinating. In 1960, at 22 years of age, he left his native city of Maebashi, Japan, with dreams to travel around the world by motorcycle with a friend. After crossing India, Pakistan, and Europe, he arrived in Rome in 1960, the year of the Olympics, where he spent some time as a reporter for a Japanese magazine. During a trip to Turin for a motor show, he met Maria Luisa Bassano, a young student about to leave for a year of study in Japan. During this year, Hideyuki and Marisa’s feelings for one another deepened; Hideyuki joined Marisa in Japan and they got engaged. Hideyuki and Marisa married in 1962, and lived in Turin, where Hideyuki worked with Giugiaro and Mantovani to create Ital Design, and where the family lived until 1992, when the couple moved to Tuscany, and Bulichella, for good. Bullicella

The Bulichella Estate is comprised of 42 hectares that are within a short walk to the village of Suvereto. “Every area expresses something different,” expressed Rachele. “The clay soil is rich in minerals. It gives structure and composition to the wines. This is a unique area that’s dry and open to the sea. Its perfect conditions include a warm Mediterranean climate, sea breezes and a broad diurnal temperature shift. These are important elements for the maturation of grapes and their their acidity and complexity.”

Vermentino, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Syrah and Sangiovese grapes thrive at Bulichella. “We choose the best vines that can express each terroir,” explained Racheli. “Elegance and balance are our signature characteristics in all of the wines.”

Tuscanio Bianco 2022 is 100% Vermentino from 20-25 year old vines. Although the region is known for its red wines, “Vermentino is adaptable to the area because Suvereto is near the sea and benefit from marine breezes. It’s so interesting and exciting because it’s unusual to have this in the region,” explained Rachele. Aromas of fresh fruit and the savory notes on the mouthwatering palate pair beautifully with light appetizers and grilled fish. The whimsical label depicts wild boars, frequent visitors to the vineyard, contemplating their next move.

A blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, Rubino 2020 is pure, clean and fresh. It’s 35-40% of the entire portfolio thanks to an easy drinking profile of red berries, soft tannins, bright acidity and a lingering finish. It’s suggested to complement pasta with marinara sauce with a glass or two of Rubino 2020. The label shows wild boars leaving the vineyard gates.

Coldipietrerosse 2018 is from vineyards in Suvereto DOCG. Of mostly Cabernet from a single vineyard, Merlot and Petit Verdot are in the blend. Aromas are an enticing balance between the soil and breezes from the sea and dark fruit, blueberries, cocoa and tobacco leaf burst from the glass. Bold and structured with velvet tannins, fresh acidity and notes of Mediterranean herbs and dark cherries, enjoy this elegant wine with game meats, hearty cheeses and meat-based dishes. Illustrated on the label is the “hill of red stones” of Suvereto.

The name Hide 2018 is a homage to Hideyuki Miyakawa, the family patriarch. Less than 1000 bottles are produced of this 100% Syrah, “one of the most interesting varieties on the coast,” according to Rachele. Intense aromas of spice and berries seamlessly lead to a palate with a flavorful, full-bodied mouthfeel and a long finish. Open a bottle to enjoy with any grilled meats or a flavorful, hearty pasta. The label represents a Jaguar automobile, Miyakawa’s favorite, motoring through the vineyard.

Montecristo 2018 is the “real jewel of Bulichella” from Suvereto DOCG in that it “has the best expression of the vineyard,” shared Rachele. A blend of mostly Merlot with smaller amounts of Cabernet and Petit Verdot, bold, complex aromas and flavors are dramatic and fresh. “The blend changes each year in order to best reflect terroir.” Roasts, game meats and cheeses are luscious food pairings with this savory, rich wine.

Perhaps the most meaningful label is that of Montecristo. Rachele explained that from the Bulichella Estate, a small faraway island can be seen, but only if it’s a clear day. Throughout the years, Hideyuki Miyakawa maintains that his ambition is to reach as far as possible and exceed his own expectations. When he gazes at the island on a clear day, he feels that anything is attainable. “It may be far away, but it’s still part of the landscape.” That is Bulichella.

Cheers! ~ Cindy

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