At Eugenio Collavini Viticoltori in Collio DOC, Tasting is a Personal Experience

When a winery from Collio DOC calls, I answer! But it wasn’t always that way. My first taste of wine from this very special region in northeast Italy was a decade or so ago when I swirled and sipped my way through the Wine Spectator Grand Tasting in Las Vegas. At the end of the night, a few producers were offering bottles to fortunate wine lovers and I was a grateful recipient of an already chilled Pinot Grigio from Collio. Truth be told, I had neglected to work my way to that table for a tasting. Unfamiliar with Collio or its wines, I opened the wine the following evening to see what this was all about. As you may expect, it was yet another “ah-ha!” moment in wine – how could a Pinot Grigio have so much flavor, body and texture? I now know the answer!

Since that weekend years ago, I’ve traveled through Collio with other journalists to understand its terroir, learn about unique winemaking techniques, to taste an array of wines from outstanding producers and explore its culture. I’ve received many wines as samples and subsequently shared each with friends who, like me, appreciate each.

Recently, when offered an opportunity to participate in a virtual tasting with Luigi Collavini, fourth generation member and sales and marketing director at Eugenio Collavini Viticoltori in Corno di Rosazzo, I immediately confirmed. Six unique wines were then sent as samples.

Tucked into the far northeast corner of Italy, the region of Collio is a curve of bright and sunny hills, slopes and terraces within the province of Friuli Venezia Giulia on the border of Slovenia and between the Julian Alps and the Adriatic Sea. To the north is the town of Prepotto, to the west is Cormons and in the east is Gorizia.

Collio enjoys a mild climate with summers that are hot but not stifling and winters that are cold and often rainy. Dramatic diurnal temperature shifts and local winds create a unique micro-climate. Thanks to the warm currents from the Adriatic Sea, grapes are kept dry and the mountains to the north protect the region from cold winds. The unique soil, termed Ponca, consists of layered marl and sandstone that offer elements of minerality and salinity to the wines. Not surprisingly, grapevines thrive in this natural environment.

In 1896 Eugenio Collavini began the wine business of the same name when he supplied wine to stores and the noble families in Udine. Luigi explained that Eugenio’s son, Giovanni, “guided the winery through the first two world wars, although wine production was halted due to the need for food in order to support the family.” Manlio, Giovanni’s son, assumed the helm of the winery post World War II. “He picked up wine production and expanded it to the international scene, thanks to exports and innovations.”

Located in Collio DOC within Friuli, the distinctive location impacts the wines produced at Eugenio Collavini. Hugging the border of Slovenia where slopes are steep, “we’re surrounded by mountains and the sea. North winds give acidity and minerality to the wines and south winds give size, sugar, volume and alcohol,” stated Luigi. “Balance, elegance and drinkability are key components. Wines must taste like Friuli and wines must taste like the grape. Balance is the answer,” he continued. On that note, corks were popped and the tasting began.

Our first wine was Il Grigio Supmante n.v., a dry sparkling wine made of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Grigio using the charmat method whereby the second fermentation is in large stainless steel tanks. “This is a better educated Prosecco. I feel that Chardonnay makes a better sparkling wine than Glera,” shared Luigi. Fresh with lower alcohol, this is “an alternative between Champagne and Prosecco.” With fine texture and persistent bubbles, vibrant acidity and subtle citrus notes are notable and pair perfectly with appetizers.

Ribolla Gialla Spumante Brut 2018, a sparkling wine of Ribolla Gialla, Friuli’s most ancient grape dating back to its planting by Benedictine monks in 1272, offers an intense palate profile with depth and fruit flavors. “My father was the first to make a sparkling from Ribolla Gialla. He began producing this in the 1970s and it was his biggest success,” stated Luigi. Produced using the Collavini Method whereby a long refermentation in horizontal autoclaves is followed by 12 months in the bottle. “This method is a crossover between Charmat and Methode Traditionelle. Timing is important – the wine takes about 5 years to make.” Delicious as an aperitif, consider a glass or two with meats, cheeses and roasted vegetables.

One of my most beloved varieties from Collio is Friulano and T-Friulano DOC Collio 2022 delivered. Considered by many to be a delicious alternative to Sauvignon Blanc, the full bodied white wine is rife with fragrant aromas of white flowers and confection leading to fresh citrus, notes of almonds and plenty of texture on the palate. “Friulano is one of the most important grapes here,” said Luigi. Enjoy the wine with summer soups or a first course pasta dish with marinara.

Turian Ribolla Gialla 2020 is a fresh alternative to Pinot Grigio with its minerality, salty notes, ripe acidity, balance and rich yet delicate palate profile. The wine in the glass shines with its almost golden color. Ribolla Gialla grapes are cultivated in the eastern hills of Friuli. How about a glass of Turian with fresh or fried sardines, a typical Friulian dish?

Collavini’s signature white wine, Broy DOC Collio 2019, is of 50% Friulano, 30% Chardonnay and 20% Sauvignon Blanc. Luigi explained that after the 2018 vintage, the wine is aged in barrel for 6 months. “We don’t want to feel the barrel,” he said. “We want to represent Friuli at its best.” The name “Broy” derives from “broili,” a small vegetable garden that surrounded Friulian houses where vines were planted for wine and consumption. Exuding elegance and harkening to the history of Collavini, I appreciated this powerful full bodied white wine with freshness, minerality, notes of tropical fruit, honey and orange peel. I’m thinking of pouring another glass with risotto and truffles.

A red wine, Refosco Pucino DOC Friuli 2021 is of Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, a native Friulian grape planted near the Adriatic Sea during Roman times. Using carbonic maceration, such as in Beaujolais, the wine is rich in color and tannins with a light, soft profile and flavors of blackberries, raspberries, anise and herbs along with lower alcohol. The tradition of the Collavini family is to bottle this wine only in the spring. Open the bottle and enjoy with your favorite roasted or baked chicken with herbs.

Luigi Collavini remarked that “tasting should be a personal experience.” For me, it was. Each sip of these beautiful, balanced wines reminded me of my first bottle from Collio DOC. I’m grateful that it wasn’t my last!

What will your personal experience be when you taste wines from Eugenio Collavini Viticoltori? Open a bottle and find out.

Cheers~ Cindy