Nestled in the residential neighborhood of Bel Air and offering stunning views of the Getty Museum are the vineyards of Moraga Vineyard Company and its sprawling mansion.
Moraga Bel Air was originally a horse ranch and home of Victor Fleming, Director of Gone with the Wind and The Wizard of Oz, who entertained an array of celebrities in the 1930s and 1940s. In 1959, the property was purchased by Tom Jones, a retired aerospace engineer. He planted vines as “a gentleman’s endeavor and personal homage to Jean Louis Vignes who began making wine in the 1830s in downtown Los Angeles, decades before Napa began planting vines.” Subsequently, Rupert Murdoch bought Moraga in 2013 after seeing an advertisement in the Wall Street Journal. The deal was sealed after Murdoch agreed to maintain the property “as is” and continue Moraga’s legacy. How unique is Moraga? There isn’t any other winery with estate grown fruit in the city of Los Angeles.
Photo Credit: Moraga
With a 550-900 foot elevation in the Santa Monica Mountains, very steep rocky vineyards on uplifted sea bed with decomposed granite and sandstone, and ocean breezes from the Pacific create a distinctive microclimate in which vines thrive and offer the wines a true sense of place. The first vintage of Moraga White of Sauvignon Blanc was 1991 and the inaugural vintage of Moraga Red, a Cabernet based Bordeaux blend, was 1989.
Photo Credit: Moraga
To guide a recent virtual tasting of Moraga wines for which I was sent (as samples) Moraga 2019 White and Moraga 2017 Red, was Moraga’s seasoned winemaker, Paul Warson, who came to the winery in 2021. He grew up in Los Angeles and attended UC Davis where he studied Fermentation Science.
“Before his final year he worked at a sparkling winery in Carneros when he decided he would spend his career making wine. Upon completion of his degree, he was invited back to the winery in Carneros to see, “the other side of things.” Feeling he needed a change of perspective, Paul traveled to Australia, where he lived and worked for six months. With the change in varietals, climate, and overall attitude to winemaking, Paul discovered a different approach to the craft he studied and trained in for so long. When Paul returned to California, he worked at Chateau Potelle, located atop Mount Veeder, when it was owned by both Jean-Noel and Marketta Fourmeaux.
It was here Paul integrated his schooling, his experience from Australia, and what he learned from the owners – with each wine that is created, the winemaker has an intimate commitment to both the wine and the consumer, to craft wines that are distinctive and true to their place.
After working an additional nine years in Napa Valley, a conversation with Bill Foley of Foley Family Wines brought Paul to Firestone Vineyard in the Santa Ynez Valley, where he was winemaker and General Manager for nine years. By this time, small, family owned estate vineyards had become Paul’s specialty, and he was able to elevate all of the tiers for each winery within the company.”
If this broad resume isn’t enough, Paul has his own label, Warson Wine Company and makes his own wine from Santa Ynez Valley and Los Angeles County. No doubt, Warson is committed to advancing Murdoch’s mission to produce wines of the highest quality and to honor the history of Moraga.
Photo Credit: Moraga
The Wines of Moraga
Moraga 2019 White ($92) is 100% Sauvignon Blanc that exuded aromas of white florals, nectarine, pears and juicy white peaches. Flavors of lemon, papaya, mango, lush exotic fruits and abundant minerality, the slightest hint of oak and brilliant acidity were notable. A beautiful wine, pair Moraga 2019 White with salads, oysters, crab cakes, grilled shrimp, salmon, sea bass and cheeses from Bourgogne.
Reminding me more of Bordeaux than many wines I’ve had of late, was Moraga 2017 Red ($140) of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot and 4% Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. With every sip I found exceptional balance and layers upon layers of texture. Aromas and flavors of currant, tobacco , black cherries, espresso, vanilla, butterscotch, chocolate truffles and black fruit compote were framed with refreshing acidity and satin-like tannins. The wine was aged in 100% new French oak. Decant then enjoy this keeper with a juicy rib eye steak, barbecued baby back ribs, exotic truffle chocolates and, as Paul Warson suggested, chocolate pudding!
Photo Credit: Moraga
The Moraga vineyard is “a total eco-system with areas of native vegetation and extensive gardens that serve as insectaries for beneficial insects. A permanent cover crop of native grasses and wildflower is maintained in order to prevent erosion and improve overall soil health.” The crew of eight people are truly hands-on in the vineyards, from bud break to labeling of the bottles.
Paul Warson admits that “we are a gem in Los Angeles – it’s a beautiful property. We’re in a special position in the winemaking community of California.” And the wines? A magnificent reflection of terroir and commitment to quality.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
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