Ready for a snack and a glass of wine? Count me in! This month my Italian Food, Wine, Travel (#ItalianFWT) colleagues (who can’t get enough of all-things-Italy) have gathered a brilliant menu of articles about Abruzzo and/or Marche. Grab a glass of wine from fascinating Abruzzo and the snack I suggest below as you enjoy their posts.
In 2022, I had the opportunity to spend several days in Abruzzo exploring the wines, foods, small villages, unique cultural landmarks and more. As always, meeting the people in a wine region is a delight in itself and those I met in Abruzzo were some of the most gracious and hospitable. One of many impressive stops on the trip was Poderi Castorani in the hills of Alanno in the Province of Pescara. In this article, I’m thrilled to share the story of Poderi Castorani, one of its wines (sent as a sample) and, of course, a delectable snack for pairing. But first…
Where is Abruzzo?
Located between the Adriatic Sea and the Gran Sasso and Majella massifs, Abruzzo has three National Parks and more than ten national and regional nature reserves. The region is separated by a mountainous zone located inland (the area is more than 65% of the entire region) and a coastal section with a wide swath of hills. The three-hour drive from the airport in Rome to the seaside in Abruzzo was stunning with vistas of small villages dotting the valley and unique mountain landscapes.
On Abruzzo’s Apennine side facing the Adriatic Sea, the climate is milder than the area inland. Mountains, a 40-minute drive from the sea, help create a diurnal shift between day and night. Vineyard areas, on mainly clay and calcareous soils, total approximately 36,000 hectares and the annual production is approximately 3.8 million hectolitres.
Major varieties and styles produced in Abruzzo include Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC, Abruzzo Pecorino and Villamagna DOC.
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC
Montepulciano is the main red grape variety in all of Abruzzo and represents over 80% of the total number of DOC wines produced in the region. Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC is one of the top three DOC wines produced in Italy.
What’s in the glass? The ruby red color and mesmerizing aromas of bright red fruit, flowers, and spice are enticing. Once you have a sip of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, considered by many as one of Italy’s greatest red varieties, you’ll be ready for more – trust me! Dry and full-bodied with elegant tannins and food friendly acidity, flavors of violets, cherries, red berries, licorice are just what wine lovers crave… as are the affordable price points.
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo ripens late – generally, it usually occurs between October 1-20. It’s delicious enjoyed young especially if the wine is in the less-expensive category. When aged at length in oak barrels though, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo has the ability to be even more fascinating and complex with layers upon layers of flavors and sensations.
The Montepulciano variety has been in Abruzzo since the mid-18th century according to historical documents. It was cultivated long ago in the province of L’Aquila and in the inland hills of Pescara. Since the 1950s, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC is found in the coastal hilly area, too, thanks to technological advances and a heightened knowledge of viticultural techniques. These vineyards are at an altitude of no more than 500 meters above sea level and vineyards with a southern exposure are allowed to plant the variety at no more than 600 meters. Regulations allow other red grape varieties from Abruzzo to be included in the blend, but no more than 15% of the total.
Podere Castorani
The earliest records of this historic property date back to 1793 when the estate was part of Lady Adelina Ruggieri D’Capobianchi’s dowry when she married Raffaele Castorani, developer of the first cataract eye surgery. The estate became known as Villa Castorani. Later, Antonio Casulli purchased the 490 acres of cultivated land and upon the owner’s death and the estate was divided. Unfortunately, it started to decline and was then abandoned.
In 1999, a group of friends and now business partners (one of whom is Jarno Trulli, Formula 1 race car driver and Abruzzo native) purchased the estate. For more information and beautiful scenery, enjoy the video.
The grapes cultivated at Podere Castorani are mostly red (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo) and whites (Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, Malvasia, Cococciola, Pecorino and Passerina) with new experimental varietals tested in a separate area. The average age of the vineyards is over 30 years and the area is cultivated following strict organic guidelines – no chemical pesticides or fertilizers are used. Podere Castorani is in the Casauria sub-zone of the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo appellation -it’s one of nine that “produce wine of significant quality.” Each of the nine sub-zones has their own, unique sytems for winemaking and ageing. Because of this, the names are able to be included on the wine labels.
Delizioso! Podere Castorani Casauria Riserva 2015 and Grilled Pecorino Cheese Sandwich
Podere Castorani Casauria Riserva 2015 ($35) is of 100% Montelpulciano grapes cultivated in a 50-year-old vineyard with clay soils. Fermentation and maceration occurred in concrete tanks for 40 days after which ageing took place for 30 months. The first 12 months were on the lees in large oak barrels followed by 6 months in concrete tanks and over 15 months in the bottle before release. The wine is unfiltered.
Full in body, notes of earth, rich red fruit compote, touch of vanilla and dried raisins were pervasive on the nose and palate. Moderate acidity and soft tannins framed this fresh, food friendly, authentic wine.
If you’ve traveled through Europe, you know that cheese is just as important as the wine! In Abruzzo, some of the cheeses I tasted were among the best. Pecorino abruzzese is a hard, salty cheese made with sheep milk (the word “pecorino” is Italian for sheep) and its aromas and tastes are intense and quite unique. The longer the cheese ages, the saltier, firmer and more crumbly it becomes. Flavors are grassy, earthy, tangy and of course salty. Understanding that Montepulciano d’Abruzzo pairs beautifully with aged cheese, I decided to make one of my favorite late afternoon snacks – grilled Pecorino Abruzzese sandwich. And later, I discovered that grilled cheese in Abruzzo is, in fact, a popular choice!
Delicious pairing? Absolutely! The complex, balanced profile of Podere Castorani Casauria Riserva 2015 and its abundance of rich and complex fruit, spice and earth notes provided a mouthwatering complement to the rich, creamy, tangy grilled Pecorino Abruzzese sandwich. Give this duo a try and transport yourself to beautiful Abruzzo.
Cheers, Cindy
Enjoy the following articles from my #ItalianFWT colleagues.
- Wendy from A Day in the Life on the Farm: “Welcoming Spring with Farinelli Rosé”
- Cam from Culinary Cam: “Frecantò di Verdure, the Marche’s Version of Ratatouille, with the 2021 Colleleva Lacrima di Morro d’Alba”
- Robin from Crushed Grape Chronicles: “Pecorino from Marche and Montepulciano from Abruzzo, exploring a bit of the wild lands of Italy’s Eastern Coast”
- Andrea from The Quirky Cork: “Pecorino Shines with Creamy Asparagus Pasta”
- Jennifer from Vino Travels: “Wines of Le Marche with Il Conte Villa Prandone”
- Susannah from Avvinare: “Trebbiano d’ Abruzzo, A Perfect Sip for Spring”
- Gwendolyn from Wine Predator: “Cerasuolo from Organic Famiglia Febo and Biodynamic Lunaria Paired with Abruzzo Inspired Menu: Mussels and Saffron, Pecorino and Pasta”
- Linda from My Full Wine Glass: “Two Verdicchio stars in the Marche wine firmament”
robincgc
Cindy Rynning
Camilla M Mann
Andrea Lemieux