“We’re all-in that this is a family,” stated Mark Pisoni, Vineyard Manager and Farmer, to a group of wine media and journalists gathered at Pisoni Family Vineyards in the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA one morning. “Dad created this team. It’s old school and simple, it’s about sharing and family.” That dad is Gary Pisoni, one of the true pioneers in the California wine industry.
Over a glass of Pinot Noir with lunch, Gary said, “I had already planted the vines in Monterey County when others were just trying to figure out the area.” Gary’s parents, who settled the area in 1952, used the family property for cattle grazing. “Who knew back then that the land would become a world class spot to grow grapes?” added Mark. Jeff Pisoni, Winemaker, shared that “Dad loves wine. Back then, he didn’t really know what he was building.”
Gary Pisoni
In 1982, Gary began the process of turning 40 acres of difficult terrain into vineyards, despite others’ shock and disbelief that he could actually accomplish such a feat! Rightly so, energetic Gary Pisoni is known as a maverick and anyone who has the finger on the pulse of the California wine industry knows the impact of Gary Pisoni and the family’s wines that receive consistent accolades from around the world.
The Pisoni Family and Vineyards
Farming is what we do. It is as much part of our DNA, as is rootedness to the region. Jane and Eddie Pisoni started farming in the Salinas Valley in 1952 and the care and pride they consistently brought to their work has been taken up in turn by their son Gary and his children, Jeff and Mark. Walking the land in all seasons, each of us feels a clear sense of connection, much the way parents feel when they catch their own reflections in the faces of their children. Pisoni Family Vineyards
Mark and Jeff Pisoni
With a glass of wine in hand, our group walked along a gravel path around vineyards and the herb and flower garden as Jeff and Mark reminisced about their childhood growing up on the land. “Our grandfather said to us that we should never sell this land,” said Jeff who currently lives in Sonoma County. “I’m truly happy when I’m walking through the ranch and tasting the wines.”
Mark lives on the Pisoni property in a family home built in 1910 – vegetables are grown on the valley floor and wine grapes are cultivated on the mountain. “This property is teeming with life, energy, hummingbirds, all native plants in the ground, aromas of sage and more. I love the way it smells. It’s home,” shared Mark.
Both Jeff and Mark agreed that “this farm is ours for generations and we’re not going anywhere – we need to take care of our environment.” To that end, a holistic approach to grape growing is of high priority.
Mark explained. “Instead of spraying, we put out aroma devices to scare the pests. It costs a bit more and takes time, but it works with nature.” During the vineyard walk, the group noted technology that monitors the amount air being exhaled from the vines so that Mark is able to determine the degree to which the vines can be stressed. “Compared to California’s north coast, Santa Lucia Highlands is a desert next to the ocean. Dad likes to say that he wants grapes to scream for water, then he gives them a drop.”
“We as farmers need to be prepared for a warmer, drier climate. We’re working on aspects of regenerative agriculture such as composting, use of solar panels and more,” shared Mark. Viticulture is certified sustainable and the Pisoni family is “proud of their investment of time.”
“There are four different ridges with unique soil types: granite, quartz, flaky schist – and the type of soil determines which grapes are grown. Decomposed granite is found mainly in Santa Lucia Highlands, but on the property there are more soil types. That’s rare,” stated Jeff. “Our dad was convinced that there was much water on the property and he found it – it backs up against the fault lines, of which there are 7 or 8.” When Gary found the water, he deemed it a “magic vortex!”
Pisoni Family Wines
Just as enlightening as the vineyard walk were three separate tastings held in the entrance to the wine cave.
Highlighted was the philosophy of Chardonnay by Pisoni with tastings of four stunning wines with breathtaking acidity. Jeff explained that “we have an emphasis on acidity and anaerobic winemaking for ageability. All native yeasts are used and I experimented with that in different vineyards to understand how it affects the end result.”
2021 Lucia Chardonnay, a textured cuvee of Pisoni and Soberanes Vineyards, burst with minerality and precise acidity. 2021 Lucia Soberanes Vineyard Chardonnay was complex and rich whereby 2021 Pisoni Estate Chardonnay from the property’s 1982 plantings was elegant, lush and balanced. Finally we sipped 2012 Lucia Soberanes Vineyard Chardonnay, a beautiful snapshot of the last 11 years.
A horizontal of 2021 Pinot Noir by Pisoni prompted more “wows” and lively conversation especially after Gary shared the story of moving Pinot Noir cuttings from France to California (you’ll have to ask him yourself). Focused and flavorful with a depth and breadth of florals, fruit, spice and herbs, each wine reflected unique terroir. 2021 Lucia Estate Cuvee of Pinot Noir was an intense yet easy drinking example of non-vineyard designate wine. 2021 Lucia Soberanes Vineyard Pinot Noir from 2007 plantings, was lush and 2021 Lucia Gary’s Vineyard Pinot Noir was rich and fruit-forward. 2021 Pisoni Estate Pinot Noir was complex with firm tannic structure and plenty of power.
Wines of concentration and structure were poured during the vertical of Pisoni Estate Pinot Noir. “It’s important to manage the tannins with the choice of tank, temperature and fermentation,” said Jeff. Earth and spice reigned in the 2015 vintage during which yields were low thanks to an unusually warm winter and cold temperatures during the time for flowering. The 2011 Pinot Noir burst with minerality and high acidity, the 2008 Pinot Noir was rich, satin-like and bold and the Pinot from 2006 was a showstopper with its powerful tannins, rich flavors and acidity.
At various points during the day, Mark and Jeff reminded us that “we’re always doing, improving, evolving. We want to bring joy and happiness to people through our wines. We want to focus on quality not quantity. And through it all, family is everything.”
Gary Pisoni looked at each son with pride as he enjoyed another pour of stellar Pinot Noir.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
