A “hands on” introduction to the Sta. Rita Hills American Viticulture Appellation (AVA) was just a few weeks ago when I visited The Hilt Estate. Patrick Reynolds, Lead Estate Host, welcomed my +1 and me at the front entry with a refreshing glass of The Hilt Rose of Pinot Noir, then escorted us on a tour of the stunning tasting room, The Barn at the Hilt Estate. This peaceful, contemporary space is located at the westernmost end of the Hilt Estate property in northwestern Santa Barbara County and is adjacent to the winery itself. Designed by well-known architect Howard J. Bracken and his firm Bracken & Gilliam Architects, the relaxing tasting room, opened in 2021, offers views of the Santa Rita Valley from its site at the southwestern opening to the Sta. Rita Hills AVA. Quite a prelude to what was to come!
The Sta. Rita Hills AVA, one of the smaller AVAs in California, is found on the state’s Central Coast in Santa Barbara County. The eastern edge of Sta. Rital Hills is about four miles west of Highway 101 in Buellton and continues to the western boundary, about two miles east of Highway 1 in Lompoc. The southern boundary is the north side of Santa Rosa Hills, with the northern boundary as the south side of the Purisima Hills.
Close to the Pacific Ocean, its marine layer and afternoon breezes cover the coastal valley corridors between the Purisima Hills and the Santa Rosa Hills. Poor marine-based soils with a high amount of calcium and the Pacific Ocean’s cooling influence of fog and wind that moderate the heat of summer, blend to create the optimal environment for cultivating Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and other cool climate varieties.
The same conditions also limit vine vigor and crop yields resulting in wines with intense flavors, natural acidity and structure. Currently, the Sta. Rita Hills AVA is comprised of around 3000 acres of Pinot Noir and 500 acres of Chardonnay. About 140 acres of Sta. Rita Hills vineyards are planted to Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier and other varieties.
If the Sta. Rita Hills AVA is a benchmark of cool climate wines, The Hilt Estate is one of its best ambassadors. In the summer of 2014, The Hilt purchased the historic 3600 Rancho Salsipuedes, the home to two unique vineyards, Radian and Bentrock. The Estate offers wines from single vineyards and their Estate Wines are “defined by the fruit and flavors… nuances and complexities” of their entire property. They give us the maximum amount of blending components and represent the most complete wines in our portfolio.” For a snapshot of current wines from The Hilt Estate, please click here.
The 100 acre, rugged Radian Vineyard is planted to at least 10 acres of Chardonnay and the balance to Pinot Noir. Rocky soils and porous diatomaceous earth (DE) with its powdery raw material characterize the ridgelines. When the vine’s roots go deep into the soil, the DE shatters and plants dig deeper for nutrients. Farther down the steep hills is clay loam needing minimal irrigation.
Diatomaceous Rock from Radian Vineyard
The Bentrock Vineyard is the Estate’s most eastern vineyard and ranges from 400-500 feet above sea level. It’s characterized by long, rolling hillls and warmer temperatures and soils than Radian. The wines are round and opulent. With about 100 acres, 13.6 are planted to Chardonnay and the the rest to Pinot Noir on primary soil types of clay, sediment and shale. Matt Dees, Winemaker, has stated, “Though farming Bentrock has its challenges, compared to Radian, it’s a teddy bear.”
Our vantage point at the tasting room offered views of the Estate’s steep hills, ridges and cool climate vineyards that are usually drenched in sunshine. Matt Dees thrives on these incredibly difficult conditions as much as Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. By all accounts, “the opportunities and sense of discovery presented by The Hilt Estate make them one of the most exciting vineyards one could imagine.”
Although I didn’t have the opportunity to meet and talk to Matt Dees, I clearly understood that he’s “pushing the vineyards to the hilt of their potential and creating wines that are lively, fresh, and well structured.” I tasted several of those wines.
We began with two single vineyard wines of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir cultivated in the Radian Vineyard. “There’s no ego behind the wines,” stated Patrick. “Decisions are made after tasting the fruit.” 2019 Chardonnay was fermented for 12 months in barrel then 5 months in stainless steel. The result was a lush wine with salty citrus, tropical fruit and florals on the palate and just enough oak to create ultimate balance. Trust me when I say that if anyone claims to dislike Chardonnay, this wine will change their mind. 2019 Pinot Noir was rich and broad with plenty of lush dark red fruit and earth notes. This stunning, sleek Pinot spent 12 months in French oak.
2019 Chardonnay from the Bentrock Vineyard was not unlike a southern Burgundy thanks to its rich flavor profile of honeysuckle, ginger, apricot, nectarine, vibrant acidity and graceful elegance. It spent 12 months in French oak and 5 months in stainless steel before bottling. The 2019 Pinot Noir was round and flavorful with brilliant dark fruit, mint, black cherry notes and chalky tannins reflecting terroir and 20 months in French oak. Astounding.
Matt Dees is also forging his own path at JONATA Estate, established in 1998, with the intention to “explore and expand world-class winegrowing in Santa Barbara County.” Located in the Ballard Canyon appellation in Santa Ynez Valley, JONATA is a 600 acre site planted to 12 grape varieties cultivated across 84 acres. Vineyards, oak trees, gardens, fruit orchards and wildlife share the land.
Among the wines we tasted were 2017 Fenix, a ripe and decadent blend of 40% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc and 8% Petit Verdot and 2017 La Sangre de Jonata of 98% Syrah and 2% Viognier. Elegant and fresh, this expressive wine was powered with aromatics and rich fruit. As Nicholas poured 2017 Todos, he remarked that the wine is “representative of everything that’s here.” Of 44% Syrah, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Petit Sirah, 10% Petit Verdot, 8% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc, the wine was not only approachable and delicate but powerful and exotic thanks to intense aromas and flavors that included fig, balsamic, tobacco, black pepper and chocolate.
The grand finale of our tasting was The Hilt 2018 Sparkling of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir and produced using the methode traditionelle whereby the second fermentation occurs in the bottle. Having produced sparkling wine since 2013, Matt Dees considers this vintage “the pinnacle of our sparkling wine program to date.” Bone dry (dosage was not used) and crisp with pure acidity, notes of bright citrus fruits and raw almonds and tiny bubbles that lasted from beginning to end, this sparkling was notable.
Beginning your journey through the Sta. Rita Hills? Start at The Hilt Estate. And if you’re already familiar with the area, it’s time to revisit this exceptional place in our wine world.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
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