Ready to raise a glass to Grillo? Fresh, mineral-driven, and dry, this classic white wine native to the island of Sicily is one of its main white grapes. Grillo is becoming more popular with many wine enthusiasts, thanks to increasing examples of high quality production. In my home, a chilled bottle of Grillo is always at-the-ready to share with food, friends and family. C’mon over! Grillo just wants to have fun!
But what about Grillo? The grape is an intense yellow color with flecks of green. With hints of herbs, spice, grapefruit, passion fruit, white florals, almonds and breezy salinity on the nose, the full-bodied wine exudes rich, structured flavors including stone fruit such as peaches and pears, bright citrus and sensations of minerality. Offering balance between fruit, acidity and alcohol, sip Grillo as a budget-friendly alternative to Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio.
Source: fonti: (Sicilia en Primeur 2017) Identità e ricchezza del vigneto Sicilia. A cura di Giacomo Ansaldi, Dario Cartabellotta, Vito Falco, Francesco Gagliano, Attilio Scienza. Regione Siciliana, Assessorato Regionale dell’Agricoltura, dello Sviluppo Rurale e della Pesca Mediterranea / Dipartimento Regionale dell’Agricoltura / VI Servizio Assistenza Tecnica in Agricoltura, Programmazione e Sistemi Informativi. © 2014
Not one of the ancient Sicilian varieties one may have expected, the earliest mention of Grillo was in 1873. It’s a natural cross of Cataratto Bianco and Muscat of Alexandria (also known as Zibibbo in Sicily). After phylloxxera invaded Sicily in the 1880s, Grillo was planted to replace Catarratto Bianco, its parent, but was eventually replaced by more productive varieties.
Now, we can find Grillo in the province of Trapani located in Sicily’s northwest corner and it’s a crucial component of Marsala DOC, the island’s famous fortified wine. It’s also found in the provinces of Agrigento, Palermo, Messina, Caltanisetta and Siracusa. Although Grillo is cultivated in other parts of Italy such as Puglia where it’s part of the blend of various IGT wines, the vast majority of plantings are in Sicily where Grillo can withstand high temperatures and drought.
Jancis Robinson et al. in Wine Grapes (2012), writes, “Recent DNA profiling has surprisingly revealed that the Rossese Bianco grown in Riomaggiore in Liguria, along the north-western Italian coast (not to be confused with Rossese Bianco from Piemonte), is identical to Grillo” (Torello Marinoni, Raimondi, Ruffa et al. 2009).
Photo Credit: Italian Wine Central
6 Grillo Worth Finding Now
The flagship wine of the family’s portfolio is Di Giovanna Helios Grillo 2020 ($25). Of grapes cultivated from a single mountainside vineyard of 830 meters above sea level, the highest elevation of Grillo in Sicily, only 3000 bottles were produced. Elegant and chic, aromas of citrus, exotic fruit and florals led to a rich, complex palate profile that was savory and refreshing. Terroir is limestone with ancient marine sediment and sunshine is abundant. Helios, the Greek god of sun, is named after the winery’s founder Aurelio Di Giovanna. The wine is certified organic and vegan-friendly from Sicilia DOC which supports sustainable viticulture practices.
Fresh, fragrant and flavorful is Feudo Maccari Olli Grillo 2021 ($18). Gorgeous aromas of peaches, jasmine flowers, lemon peel, wet grass and sweet almonds were mesmerizing. On the palate, minerality, stone and citrus fruit and zesty acidity were delightful as was the persistent finish. The Feudo Maccari is from Nero D’Avola Sicilia DOP with calcareous, lime-rich soils.
2021 Mandrarossa Grillo ($17) is pale straw yellow in color and exudes enticing aromas of juicy grapefruit, ripe white peaches and a hint of basil. On the palate, intense flavors of vibrant citrus and stone fruit are refreshing, as is its lingering finish. At dinner one evening, I poured a glass with baked salmon under a blanket of lemon and capers – a mouthwatering pairing!
Swirled and sipped with appetizers and homemade chicken tetrazzini, Grillo Vento di Mare by Cantine Ermes ($12) was a star. From the windy and sun-drenched coasts of Sicily, I found a veritable basket of tropical fruit and citrus on the nose and palate. Grillo’s signature minerality, refreshing aromas and snappy acidity framed notes of stone fruit, pineapple and dollop of honey. Enjoy this well-priced wine with seafood dishes, too, for another taste sensation.
Always a pleasure to sip, Sur Sur Grillo from Donnafugata Sicilia DOC (around $20) offers mesmerizing aromas of creamy pear, apricot and that touch of salinity I love. Mouthwatering acidity with lush citrus notes and a lingering, lip-smacking finish, it’s high time to find a bottle, no matter the vintage, and pair with fresh crab salad, light pasta dishes, an antipasti platter, vegetarian dishes or your favorite grilled fish.
A couple of years ago, I dined at Zoe’s in VA Beach where Sommelier Marc Sauter presented our group with an incredible food and wine pairing extravaganza. Afterward, I followed up with him in a Q&A during which he stated, “I’m trying to always find the next fun and exciting wine or wine region and then share. I’m pretty sure you had the grape Grillo when you were in. The Wall Street Journal just wrote about it two weeks ago as the newest and exciting wine from Italy. I have been carrying the one you tried, Valle Dell’Acate Zagra Grillo 2016 ($22) from Sicily, for the last three years.”
Your takeaway? Add this wine to your list, too.
Cheers! Cindy
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