Loire in Focus: Thoughts of Sancerre Rouge Versus Burgundy – Guest Post by Chris Garry

In this multi-part series, Chris Garry, guest writer and Tour Coordinator for Elite Wine Tour in the Loire Valley, offers a variety of Loire wines as alternatives to some of our most beloved, albeit expensive, choices. Enjoy Part 2: Sancerre Rouge v Burgundy.

Burgundy: the home of legendary Pinot Noir and truly world-class Chardonnay. Burgundy harbours arguably the most fascinating vineyards in existence. Historically, nowhere else has the means of producing both still Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, consistently, to this level of immense quality.

Surely, where Pinot Noir is concerned, there can be nowhere in the Loire Valley that rivals Burgundy. Can there? Well, no. Not when it comes to the very dearest of Burgundy, of course not. If it were true that Val de Loire was comprised of vineyards worthy of the most expensive Pinot or Chardonnay in France, someone might have said something by now… those would be revelations of an unrealistic nature. The harsh reality is that Burgundy wine continues to rise in price and fall in quality. Just how long this trend can continue remains to be seen. In the meantime, savvy consumers who value the wine in their glass above the name on the label of the bottle, are looking elsewhere and discovering just what the Loire Valley has in terms of alternatives.

 

 

Generally, when we think of red Loire Valley wine, we think of Cabernet Franc. In consumer’s consciousness, regions such as Chinon, Saumur and Bourgueil possess firm associations with exceptionally high quality red wine. So when Pinot Noir is suggested as a red Loire Valley lynchpin, understandably, eyebrows are raised. Behind Cabernet Franc, Gamay and Cot (aka Malbec), Pinot Noir is the fourth most common red grape variety of the Loire Valley- occupying roughly 1000 hectares (2500 acres) in total.

As famous as it is, Sancerre is certainly not synonymous with red wine. The region is revered as one of the greatest purveyors of Sauvignon Blanc on the planet. Yet, prior to the 19th century, the wine produced in Sancerre would have been 90% red, the vast majority of which being produced using the Pinot Noir variety.

Based on what we appreciate about their Sauvignon Blanc, we accept that winemakers of Sancerre are equally as adept at producing classy, flawless wine as the Burgundians. So why the assumption that they put any less effort into making their red wine? The fact is that wine makers do not discern between white and red in terms of vying to produce high quality wine. When discussing the global demand for Sancerre, the bemusement as to why their red wine must sell for less than their white wine is genuine, and quite often, written all over their faces.

The terroir in Sancerre is more than up to the task of producing fine red wine. Sancerre is one of the only places outside Burgundy where a certain type of soil can be found – Kimmeridgian, an ancient by-product which tattoos the fault lines as it ebbs and weaves around the age old Paris basin. No other soil affords Pinot Noir the elegance, the velvety texture and the borderline priggish nature that the variety is adored for.

In Sancerre there exists all of the key components required to make immaculate Pinot. In addition to the sloping, South facing vineyards (which in reality are entirely inconsequential, and therefore a discussion for another day), Sancerre has approximately what Burgundy has in terms of potential – the soil, the vines, the winemaking skills – albeit in far lower total area. What then, is missing? Why doesn’t Sancerre produce something close to Romanee Conti or Gevrey Chambertin style red wine?

The answer is the climate. Sancerre’s climate is just oceanic enough, without quite being close enough to the North Atlantic itself, to render the production of full bodied wine impossible.

This might be perfect for crisp citrus Sauvignon Blanc, but Sancerre rouge cannot be as weighty as certain Burgundy Pinot Noir in the glass. This might be a shame – however, to cling to the density of the wine as the only factor worth considering is to miss a mighty trick. Equally, to erroneously believe all Burgundy to be full bodied would also be to dismiss some fine sub-regions of Burgundy themselves. These include St. Romain and Marsannay, where exquisite lighter bodied, delicate Burgundy wine is omnipresent. With such an array to choose from, we might be asking, when it comes to Pinot, just where might Sancerre fit in?

Lately, due to climate change, large swaths of peripheral Burgundy vineyards are finally beginning to struggle to produce passable fruit. The suggestion that in the coming decades, many Burgundy growers must consider uprooting their beloved Pinot in favour of Syrah is no longer a cruel stab – it is finally becoming a reality.

Unless there is a switch away from Pinot Noir, the word Burgundy, and the villages we are accustomed to putting blind faith into, will remain present on the label. No indication is likely to be given that the wine that lies within is practically useless. Basic marketing shall never allow for that level of honesty.

The problem winemakers are faced with is that Pinot Noir struggles to ripen in very hot weather. The variety has a habit of shutting down and entering something of a trance-like state. Its thin skin thoroughly dislikes intense, unyielding heat. Beyond a point, the grape refuses to bask in the hot summer sun and grow.

Currently, when vine shutdown occurs, the trend among Burgundian winemakers is to just leave it be and wait for the summer to cool, when the vine will normally reawaken, simply picking back up where it left off. However, if the temperatures continue to rise, we are bound to breach the point where many parcels of Pinot are able to pick back up. Instead, like a holiday maker avoiding the beach during a heatwave, older vines might just simply dig in their heels and refuse to come out – negating the production of noteworthy fruit. “Enough is enough, we cannot stand this heat – we give up,” they might say – if they could speak.

It’s not good news for many generic Burgundy producers. Burgundy is synonymous with Pinot. Burgundians regard their own region as more sophisticated and with far greater nuance than the Rhone Valley. Despite how bitter a pill it might be to swallow, Syrah appears to be the most logical answer for the future of what are considered less noteworthy Burgundy vineyards.

In any case, where one door closes, another opens. So as the temperature causes problems for Burgundy, it delivers massive win for Sancerre. The central vineyards of The Loire (including Sancerre, Menetou Salon and nearby Reuilly) may never quite boast rich, plump reds the like of Gevrey Chambertin, Pommard or Vougeot. But, considering that some of the very most complex, well structured and interesting Sancerre rouge is roughly the same price as some rather average, unmemorable, village Burgundy, well – now might be the time to give Sancerre’s Pinot Noir a shot.

After all, if you find a red Sancerre you enjoy, you can more-or-less take for granted that the quality of future cuvées shall only improve on the whole, moving forward. 2015, 2018 and 2020 were all very favourable vintages for Pinot Noir, especially so with the Loire winemakers daring and patient enough to go the full course and produce something exciting.

Even winemakers in Touraine, producing Pinot Noir under AOC, IGP and Vin De France labels, have experienced great success in 2018, 2019 and 2020. Whilst more of a mixed bag in Touraine than Sancerre, certain Pinot gems produced with disregard to AOC regulations from vineyards along the Cher River are offering astonishing value.

We are talking the kind of prices coupled with the quality of wine here, where one can barely bring themselves to pour what had previously been earmarked as humble cooking wine into a pot of Coq Au Vin. A last minute dash to the nearest supermarket for a cheerful Gamay, in order to preserve a five year old Vin De France Pinot, to be savoured at the dinner table, is not entirely unheard of.

Prior to summer temperatures climbing to what they currently are (consistently staying above 40 degrees celsius for weeks on end), Burgundy was churning out vast amounts of perfectly good Pinot in what must have felt like an almost carefree manner. In the future, it is not impossible for Sancerre rouge to experience similar glory days to that of 1970s Burgundy. At what point in the future those circumstances come about and a crossover is triggered is impossible to say. It may appear decidedly counter intuitive to hope for even more climate change considering the overall state of play, globally. However, it seems highly likely that for the foreseeable future, the price of red Sancerre shall remain absurdly low in comparison with any red wine labelled Bourgogne.

Little the winemakers of France have done is responsible for climate change, so let’s not begrudge Sancerre of the ideal climate. As one winemaker explained, every cloud has its silver lining, and climate change’s silver lining might just be Sancerre’s vastly improving Pinot.

Cheers! ~ Cindy

If you have time for one more article, read Loire in Focus: If you Like Champagne, You’ll Like Sparkling Vouvray – Guest Post by Chris Garry. 

Chris Garry is Tour Coordinator for Elite Wine Tour, providing luxury bespoke, fully customisable, client led wine experiences across the Loire Valley.

To indulge in wine travel to Sancerre, Pouilly Fume, Chinon, Vouvray and other Loire regions and for 20% off all bookings, use coupon code GRAPEXP20 at checkout. Click here to view your options and book your experiences.