Côtes de Bordeaux – A Guide to the Essentials

We’re certainly familiar with Bordeaux, the iconic region in western France that offers luxurious, cellar-worthy wines. Bordeaux vineyards are the largest AOC in France with 65 appellations, a production of about 5.3 million hectoliters, 111,200 hectares under vine and 6500 winegrowers. Impressive, to say the least!

But how much, really, do we know about Côtes de Bordeaux? In the fall of 2022, I visited the region for the first time and realized that many wine lovers have no idea that the area even exists! In this article, the essentials of Côtes de Bordeaux are explained. Where is Côtes de Bordeaux? What grapes are cultivated? What is the history of the region? What do the wines taste like? And one very important question: why should I drink these wines?

Côtes de Bordeaux

The AOC Côtes de Bordeaux is found on the right bank of the rivers Dordogne and the Garonne as well as the Gironde Estuary that washes into the Atlantic Ocean. It’s comprised of 5 unique regions: Blaye, Castillon, Cadillac, Francs and Sainte-Foy. More than 950 producers make an average of 500,000 hectoliters of wines (665 million bottles)  of which 97% are red wines. In fact, 10% of all Bordeaux wines are made in Côtes de Bordeaux.

 

Fascinating Blaye-Côtes de Bordeaux is located about 30 miles north of Bordeaux – it’s the most northern area of the region. Facing the Medoc and overlooking the Gironde Estuary, terroir is mostly clay and limestone soil around the town of Blaye. Towards the north, sand and gravel soils enable Sauvignon Blanc to thrive and in the southeast, soils are varied. Most vineyards in 6500 hectares spread throughout 41 communes are found on hillsides that are bathed in sunshine, although high humidity because of the maritime influence is noted. 90% of the production is red – 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Malbec. White wines cultivated are 90% Sauvignon and 10% Muscadelle and Semillon.

Intense wines with soft tannins and plenty of character are found in Castillon-Côtes de Bordeaux, adjacent to Francs and bordered on the west by St. Emilion. Gravel soils near the Dordogne, clay at the bottom of hillsides and limestone on mountain plateaus provide a foundation on which grapes flourish. With a south-facing exposure and an altitude of more than 100 meters, the climate is oceanic with mild, humid elements and continental influences. 2300 hectares spread over 9 villages produce 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.

 

Producing delicate, refined wines, 2200 hectares of vineyards in 39 communes of Cadillac-Côtes de Bordeaux are on calcareous soils covered with stony gravel on the summits, clay and limestone in the middle of the slope and fine gravel mixed with silica at the coast. The area in highly influenced by the Gironde which helps temper the climate. Varieties grown are 55% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc and 5% Malbec.

 

In tiny Francs-Côtes de Bordeaux, subsoil of limestone covered with “l’agenais,” a sort of limestone molasses is found on high, sunny, east-facing hillside parcels located about 30 miles northeast of Bordeaux. Small yet mighty, 435 hectares spread across 3 communes experience dry and oftentimes harsh and cold continental climate in winter with hot summers. The area’s eastern exposure protects vineyards from hail and the storms that occur in the valleys of the Isle and Dordogne rivers. Red grapes cultivated are 60% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and white grapes are 60% Semillon, 8 % Muscadelle and 32% Sauvignon.

In Sante-Foy-Côtes de Bordeaux, a mere 350 hectares of vineyards surround the historic medieval town of Sainte-Foy-La-Grande where elegant wines with aromas and flavors of bright red fruit and cherries. Of mostly clay and limestone soil and river gravel, the appellation has a temperate climate with continental influences. Red varieties of 65% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc and 3% Malbec are produced, as are white varieties of 60% Sauvignon, 10% Muscadelle and 30% Semillon.

A Brief History of Côtes de Bordeaux

Grapevines have been growing in the Côtes de Bordeaux since ancient times. By the 2^nd century, Romans had planted the first “Vitis Biturica” vines and thanks to the writings of Ausonius in the 4^th century, the reputation of the wines were lauded as far as Rome. However, when Eleanor of Aquitaine married Henry II of England, the London market opened for wines from the Côtes de Bordeaux. Yet, after the Battle of Castillon when the English occupation of Aquitaine ended, so did the English market for Côtes de Bordeaux wines!

In the second half of the 17^th century, the English realized that these wines could withstand transport and storage to their colonies and a renaissance occurred. By the 18^th century, producers and growers developed red and white Côtes de Bordeaux appellations, officially established in the 20^th century.

The Wines of Côtes de Bordeaux

When we’re looking for an easy drinking, affordable wine from Bordeaux, choose those from Côtes de Bordeaux. The wines I tasted when in the region were lovely, mostly Merlot-driven choices that offered bright acidity and soft tannic structure.  Many were blended with other Bordeaux varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec, yet there were exceptions to the blends. I also tasted luscious sweet wines of Sauvignon, Semillon and Muscadelle as well as vivacious white wines of Sauvignon Blanc. The restrained use of oak helped make so many wines flavorful, food friendly and utterly enjoyable.

The wineries I visited in four of the five sub-regions proved that each is unique in its own way. In future articles, I’ll share more about each Château – you’ll want to visit and experience the area for yourself. In the meantime, be inspired and discover the wines of Côtes de Bordeaux.

Vignobles Raguenot was founded in 1967 by Lise and Philippe Raguenot and in 1997, their two daughters Emmanuelle and Marie-Pierre and husbands took over the vineyard of Château des Tourtes in the Blaye-Côtes de Bordeaux appellation. I was fortunate to visit the property and have a guided tasting by Emmanuelle who remarked that those in the region “can’t lose our soul.”  Among the many wines swirled and sipped was 2018 L’Atribute des Tourtes, an elegant, powerful example of 55% Merlot and 45% Cabernet Sauvignon with notes of blackberry jam, toast and vanilla on a foundation of sleek tannins . Emmanuelle shared that “most wines are meant to be sipped young, but this can hold for three to four years.”

In Castillon-Côtes de Bordeaux , a foggy morning at Château de Belcier was exquisite. Built at the end of the 18^th century and owned by an old Bordeaux family tied to Montaigne, the property was partially rebuilt by Francois de Belcier. Currently, the Chateau is owned by Macif, an insurance company, and is absolutely beautiful with history oozing from every corner. Frederic duBois led the tasting of a number of wines and as he opened Chateau de Belcier Le Pin 2018, he stated, “this wine is just as good as those from St. Emilion.” From 45-50 year old vines, the wine is an intense blend of Merlot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. Concentrated and rich with bold, luxurious flavors of red berries and black plums, it was a gift to drink this wine after a few years of aging.

Unique terroir at Château Biac in Cadillac-Côtes de Bordeaux was intriguing. Its stunning setting, overlooking a meander of the Garonne River and the plain of the Graves, is optimal for Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Semillon to thrive. After an indepth conversation with owner Tony Asseily at his home, then a tour and tasting of wines, I realized just how special this region truly is. Among the many notable wines sipped was Chateau Biac 2015, an elegant wine of predominantly Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and small amount of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot – each year the blend differs according to Tony. Balanced with ripe fruit-forward aromas and flavors, silky tannins and a lingering finish were memorable.

Although I didn’t personally visit Château Ad Francos located in Francs-Côtes de Bordeaux, I had the opportunity to meet the energetic Justine Brochard, Commercial Director of the Château one afternoon during lunch. She explained that the castle of Ad Francos (meaning “belonging to the Francs”) has been existence since the 6^th century, at the time of the conquest of Aquitaine by King Clovis. Eventually, the castle became the current village of Francs with the same name. Winemaking has been ongoing since the 11^th century thanks to its terroir. The wine I tasted, Château Ad Francos 2020 Rouge, was a blend of 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and aged for two years in French oak barrels. Each sip offered a full expression of fruit on a bed of soft tannins and moderate acidity. 

In small Sainte-Foy-Côtes de Bordeaux, a visit to Château Carbonneau was a brilliant finale to the week. On the first evening of the trip, I met Wilfrid Franc de Ferriere, proprietor of the Château, who welcomed our group and shared his wines during dinner together. The last morning in Côtes de Bordeaux, I toured the vast grounds, production facility and tasting room at Château Carbonneau to learn more. One of my favorite wines (and story) was Sequoia 2019. Named after the 150 year old Sequoia tree on the property (and largest in all of Bordeaux), the wine is 77% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Franc and 16% Cabernet Sauvignon. Rich in tannic structure with notes of black currants and blackberries, the wine was rich and flavorful.

Côtes de Bordeaux is waiting for us! Look for a bottle or two in your favorite wine shop, pop the cork and share your thoughts in the comments.

Cheers! ~ Cindy

Coming Soon – The Next Generation is Positioning Côtes de Bordeaux for the Future – Here’s What They’re Doing