For years, I’ve enjoyed wines from Troon Vineyard, a Demeter Biodynamic Certified and Regenerative Organic Certified farm in Applegate Valley, Oregon. With the management and winemaking teams consistently producing wines that adhere to their vision, it’s a joy to taste and appreciate quality.
Their goal is to “express our vineyards rather than winemaking techniques” in each wine. All wines from Troon Vineyard are fermented only with native yeasts and no commercial yeasts, acids, sugar, enzymes or additives are added. White wines are whole-cluster pressed then barrel fermented in mature French oak barrels. Clay amphorae is used for Troon’s “orange wines” in order to allow for extended skin contact after fermentation. Pétillant natural (pet-nat) sparkling wines naturally fermented in the bottle are produced. The use of whole cluster and whole berry fruit in the fermentation tank as well as the utilization of mature French oak barrels are the focus for Troon’s red wine program. The expression of fruit is of utmost importance in wines from Troon Vineyard and what’s in the glass proves it.
Photo Credit: Troon Vineyard
Troon’s label, Druid’s Fluid, an estate Biodynamic® Oregon Blend, is an expressive element of the portfolio. The Druid’s spiral on the label signifies “the Druid’s connections to the mysteries, energy and power of the natural world – concepts deeply connected to our biodynamic farming and winemaking,” states Craig Camp, General Manager of Troon Vineyards.
But there’s more to the story and who better to explain than Craig Camp? “It is always our goal to honor the important role that Dick Troon played in the wine history of Oregon, when he first planted vines here in 1972. Dick was quite the personality and there are many, many charming stories about his irascible personality, many of which are certainly apocryphal, which may be the case in the creation story (myth?) of the wine Druid’s Fluid.
That story, as told to us by more than one person, was that one vintage Dick had a stuck fermentation that left some unfermented sugar in the wine. When he shared this slightly sweet red wine with his neighbors it was a hit. Consumer preferences in wine have changed somewhat since the 1970s. The owners after Dick tried make the concept a bigger brand by buying a lot of fruit from other growers. The result was, to say the least, less charming than Dick’s wine.
When we took over at Troon, we did not know quite what to do with Druid’s Fluid. The first year, 2016, we had to deal with existing grape contracts. By 2017, we had ended those contracts, but had several vineyard blocks that did not live up to our vision for Troon Vineyard that ended up in Druid’s Fluid. To say the least, the last few vintages have been transitional for Druid’s Fluid.” And now these.
Only 500 cases were made of 2020 Biodynamic® Oregon White Blend, Druid’s Fluid ($25). Aromas of lemon, ripe orchard fruit, oranges, peaches, golden apple and spice led to a balanced palate replete with bright acidity, salinity, a creamy texture, round mouthfeel, tropical fruit notes and a lingering finish. Memorable. 2020 Biodynamic® Oregon Red Blend, Druid’s Fluid ($25) burst with fresh notes of herbs, dark red berries, black cherries and earth on the nose. On the palate, earth, wet moss, exotic spice, black tea, dark fruit and pepper were framed with vibrant acidity and integrated tannins. You love Cru Beaujolais? Pour this!
Photo Credit: Troon Vineyard
Going forward, the Druid’s Fluid Biodynamic® Oregon Estate Blends “will be an expression of our vineyard in a particular vintage” and each year, based on the natural cycles of life on the farm, the blends will change. Quite exciting, the Druid Fluid Biodynamic® Oregon Red Blend is the “first wine in the world offered for sale with the Regenerative Organic Certified™ certification on the label.” For more about Regenerative Organic Certified certification at Troon, click here.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
