Abruzzo is known as the “green region of Italy” since more than 30% of its territory is protected by three national parks, one regional park, a dozen nature preserves and other areas. Besides notable wines and authentic food, there are charming medieval villages, museums oozing history, castles with stories all their own, seaside beauty and a multitude of outdoor activities that help define this stunning region. After spending a few days exploring much of what Abruzzo has to offer with a group of sommeliers, journalists and others in the wine industry, I’m inspired and ready to return as soon as possible.
One experience, though, was unforgettable – our first night’s dinner together at a historical location, Trabocco Punta Cavalluccio. Was it the sunset and views of the Adriatic Sea, lively conversations with friends new and old, the anticipation of exploring Abruzzo for the next few days, the presentation of fresh, succulent seafood, the beautiful wines? I think so.
Before that evening, I had never heard of the trabocco, a centuries-old fishing hut jutting out into the Adriatic sea. A traditional trabocco consists of a platform of Aleppo pine that’s firmly anchored to the rocks along the shore with large logs. From the platform, two or more long arms (antennae) are suspended several feet above the water and reach out to support a huge net called trabocchetto. The development of the trabocco enabled fishing without the challenge of the unpredictable sea conditions along the rocky coast – the trabocco has dominated the Abruzzo coast for centuries. By all accounts, brave, skilled wood craftsmen built the trabocco by “studying the low tides, the moons, the sea and its life,” poet D’Annunzio wrote.
Abruzzo Pecorino
Was this wine named Pecorino because it complements cheese by the same name or because the sheep loved chewing the grapes when they were wrapped around the mulberry trees? No one is really sure! Whatever the reason, Abruzzo Pecorino is one of two white wines produced in the region – the other is Trebbiano (and I’ll be exploring that soon with a recipe for pairing).
Thought to be lost during the phylloxera epidemic in the 19th century, Pecorino was replaced by high yielding white varieties such as Trebbiano. In the 1980s, a local producer investigated the rumors that there were long-lost vines in an old vineyard. Cuttings were made, many were recognized as Pecorino and now plantings have proliferated. We can find the variety cultivated in not only Abruzzo, but Marche, Umbria and Tuscany. It thrives particularly well in higher altitudes where cooling breezes and abundant sunshine are found.
An Evening at Trabocco Punta Cavalluccio
Trabocco Punta Cavalluccio belongs to the Veri family, one of the oldest in the area. It was built by Bernardo Veri, born in 1851, and members of his family in 1887. The Trabocco was passed directly to his son Orlandino who in turn, passed it to his son Tommaso. Tommaso Veri, great grandson of Bernardo, is the current owner.
This culturally significant structure is now a restaurant where guests can find fresh seafood, breathtaking views, plenty of regional wines and a mesmerizing sunset. (Click here for more information and to make a reservation.) Octopus salad, fried anchovies with squid, peppered mussels, stuffed mussels and sagnette, a typical Abruzzo pasta were among the many delicacies served to our appreciative group. Pair any of these authentic foods with an exceptional glass (or two) of Abruzzo Pecorino. Cin Cin!
Cheers! ~ Cindy
You may also like my previous article, “Drink Pink! Drink Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, a Fresh, Aromatic Rosé from Italy.”
