Syrah, the Star of the Northern Rhône, Also Thrives in Paso Robles

Syrah is Northern Rhône’s signature red variety and exudes elegance and power, along with an uncanny ability to age, especially when from the best producers. We can find Syrah in Australia where it’s known as Shiraz, South Africa and South America, each boasting warm, sunny climates for a good part of the year. In the United States, Yakima Valley and Walla Walla in Washington and areas in Southern Oregon produce rich, bold Syrah, too. But it’s the state of California that grows the most American Syrah and one place in particular, Paso Robles, produces stellar examples.

Located between San Francisco and Los Angeles and about 40 minutes east of the Pacific Ocean, Paso Robles is a bucolic town along Highway 101 with about 35,000 residents. Bordeaux, Rhône, and an ever-growing list of Italian and Spanish grape varieties (60+ as a matter of fact!) flourish at over 250 wineries in the 614,000-acre Paso Robles AVA established in 1983. 40K+ acres are under vine as of 2021, making Paso Robles the third largest wine region in California. There are 11 specific viticultural areas (sub-AVAs) boasting a variety of soils, diverse microclimates, a broad diurnal shift of 40-50 degrees, and a range of altitude from 700 to more than 2000 feet. In essence, no two vineyards are alike.

Syrah has found a home amidst the unique sub-AVAs in Paso Robles. On the west side, breezes from the Pacific Ocean and hot temperatures stress vines that flourish in the calcareous shale soil. In fact, there is more calcareous and siliceous rock in Paso Robles than any other California AVA. The east side is warmer during the day and cool at night – its calcareous, grainy soil allows grapes to retain their natural acidity. The region’s long growing season and terroir work in harmony to achieve what Paso Robles wine country is known for: distinctive wines that reflect a sense of place.

Bold and rich, Syrah can be medium- or full-bodied. In general, it offers dark berry aromas such as blueberries and blackberries along with notes of tobacco, smoke, violets, herbs and subtle notes of black pepper on the palate.

Recently, I had the opportunity to talk with several Paso Robles winemakers, taste their wines and delve a bit deeper into their world of Syrah.

In the stunning Willow Creek District, high-elevation, cool climate, fog, alluvial and calcareous soil, high acidity and low Ph levels influence the profile of Syrah. Carl Bowker, proprietor/winemaker at Caliza, admits that he “fell in love with Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre” and produced his first wine in 2006. Of note was Caliza Syrah 2018 ($70), a powerful, balanced wine with notes of rich fruit, chalk and minerality. Pete Turrone at Booker, shared Booker Fracture 2019 ($98), named for the limestone that causes the vineyard soil to fracture rather than crumble. Considered his flagship wine, Fracture is 100% Syrah from various parcels that are certified organic and farmed biodynamically. Intense aromas and flavors of graphite, flint and black fruit compote were big, bold and beautiful, as well as sophisticated and elegant.

At Nicora where Nick Elliott is proprietor/winemaker, steep chalky limestone soils in the Russell Family Vineyard of the Willow Creek District help provide Nicora Syrah 2019 ($70) with textured layers of baking spice, deep red fruits and subtle hints of molasses framed with firm tannins and moderate acidity. Kevin Riley, proprietor/winemaker at Proulx, produces Proulx Wah 2019 ($78), an intriguing blend of Syrah, Grenache, Petite Sirah and Mourvedre. The wine boasted soft tannic structure, high acidity and intense aromas and flavors of plums, blackberries, and violets. Anglim, another small family-owned winery, is where proprietor/winemaker Steve Anglim partners with growers in Willow Creek, Templeton Gap and Adelaida Districts.  Anglim St. Peter of Alcantara 2016 ($45) was an elegant Syrah from dry-farmed grapes cultivated in Willow Creek District. Lush and flavorful with precise acidity and firm tannins, the wine, aged in French oak, is of note.

Willow Creek District isn’t the only sub-AVA that cultivates world-class Syrah. Gary Eberle produces Eberle Syrah Steinbeck Vineyards 2020 ($38) of grapes grown in the Geneseo District where silty clay and clay loam soils along with decomposed calcareous material below the surface are found. Eberle’s Syrah exuded notes of earth, spice, dark berries, succulent cherries and vanilla that complemented savory elements of white pepper, sweet tobacco and earth.

Alta Colina Old 900 2019 ($64), a Syrah with scant additions of Grenache and Viognier, is from the Adelaida District, the most northwestern of the 11 Paso Robles sub-AVAs. Tucked within the Santa Lucia Range, the many high-elevation hillsides face different directions allowing specific varieties to find their optimal position. Although the vast majority of plantings are Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah from Adelaida reflects the maritime influence of the Pacific Ocean, fog, winds and calcareous soil. Alta Colina’s wine was powerful, elegant and structured with nuances of new oak, smoked meat and lush dark berries.

The Templeton Gap, one of the oldest planted regions in California, is also one of the coolest of the Paso Robles AVAs thanks to the winds that flow from the ocean up and down the coastal range. Jeff Strekas, proprietor/winemaker at ONX poured Fiery Nights 2018 ($78). This beauty was a bold Syrah (with a touch of Viognier) that presented aromas and flavors of black fruit, cassis, smoke, savory baking spices and flint framed with fresh acidity and firm tannins.

From the Westside of Paso Robles AVA is Concur Perfect Situation 2018 ($48) of mostly Syrah with 14% Petite Sirah. The wine from this small family winery was brilliant with aromas of crushed blueberries, violets and espresso leading to a palate laden with lavender and graphite wrapped in gripping tannins and vibrant acidity.

By no means are the aforementioned wines a complete list of notable Syrah found in Paso Robles. It’s time to visit and taste for yourself. Your glass is waiting…

Cheers! ~ Cindy

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