Some winegrowing families may not have written proof signifying the beginning of their heritage. In the case of the Armani family, however, a family history of 400 years of winegrowing is proven thanks to the safekeeping of the original deed signed by Domenico Armani in December 7, 1607. This fact, one to celebrate and cherish, was an example of many that I discovered during a virtual tasting with Albino and Egle Armani, members of the 16th generation of winegrowers in Triveneto, located in northeast Italy.
The family has made a commitment towards sustainability as well as social responsibility to the area due to its centuries-old deep roots. They have a “respect for the territory” and consider themselves “guardians of indigenous varieties.” Albino Armani’s vineyards cover 750 acres in Veneto, Trentino-Alto Adige and Friuli-Venezia Giulia. The Triveneto region, a wide territory of different terroirs, is influenced by the presence of rivers that alleviate drought, the Alps that protect vineyards from cold winds and the breezy salinity of the Adriatic Sea. Vineyards in Friuli-Venezia Giulia are on clay and stony soil whereas in Veneto, the Valdadige area is of calcareous and alluvial soil and the Valpolicella vineyards are on volcanic and mineral soil.
During the virtual tasting, four wines were shared. Prosecco Rosé Extra Dry from Alta Grave-Friulana, Pinot Grigio Friuli Grave DOC, Pinot Grigio “Colle Ara” Valdadige TerradeiForti DOC and Valpolicella DOC Ripasso Classico Superiore. Each was a delicious representation of terroir and the winemaking style of Albino Armani.
Bright and flavorful, Albino Armani Pinot Grigio Friuli Grave DOC was lush and food friendly. Cultivated in vineyards near the Dolomite Mountains where cold weather is pervasive, I found refined aromas and flavors of wildflowers, chamomile and herbs such as thyme and sage. A brilliant pairing one evening was this textured wine sipped with herbed roast chicken and zucchini risotto.
Albino Armani Pinot Grigio “Colle Ara” DOC – Terradeiforti Valdadige DOC was a remarkable wine from this region located between Monte Baldo and the Lesssinia Highlands where a continental climate is tempered by the winds of Lake Garda and a marked temperature swing from day to night. The Terradeiforti Valdadige is “a special vineyard, a sacred place,” explained Egre Armani. The family uses an “ancient method of producing Pinot Grigio” whereby grapes are specially selected from “ancient terraces perfectly exposed to the late afternoon sun.” The color of the wine is a pink/gold/copper due to overnight skin maceration. Notes of peaches, apricot, grilled pineapple, mango, grapefruit flesh and dried flowers on both nose and palate highlighted the intensity and texture of the Pinot Grigio cultivated in this terroir. Consider pairing a glass or two with smoked salmon blinis or spicy Asian dishes for a memorable taste sensation.
Our final wine, was Albino Armani Valpolicella DOC Ripasso Classico Superiore, a blend of Corvina, Rondinella and Corvinone. Alta Valpolicella Classica, where the varieties are cultivated, is of high altitude and has a natural amphitheater configuration with lengthy exposure to the sun during the day and winds from the mountains each evening. On the nose and palate, I found rich blackberries, ripe black cherries, eucalyptus, dark chocolate and spice. Balanced with optimal acidity and integrated tannins, the finish was fruit-forward and incredibly long. Of note: “The Valpolicella Ripasso wine is the result of a traditional technique that consists in pouring the fresh Valpolicella over the still warm and sugary pomage of the Amarone, increasing its structure, body and flavor.” This wine has become a classic with our homemade lasagna, but try complementing any red meat, aged cheeses or a full gathering of family to celebrate 16 generations of Albino Armani.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
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