Just the other day, I mentioned to a wine colleague that I would love to return to Portugal, but this time, visit Alentejo. For a few years, I’ve tasted the wines from this region, participated in numerous virtual tastings and webinars and even traveled to New York City for an intense 36-hour immersion in all things Alentejo with the Wines of Portugal. After the latest tasting with two crucial Esporão team members, Joao Roquette, President, Esporão Group SA, and Sandra Alves, Director of Winemaking for Herdade DO Esporão label, I was again inspired.
Photo Credit: Taste of Portugal
The Esporão Group
The Esporão Group is a family-owned business with wineries in Vinho Verde (Quinta DO Ameal), Douro (Quinta dos Murcas) and Alentejo (Herdade DO Esporão). But that’s not all. They own a brewery of craft beers, Sovina, located south of Vinho Verde.
The #1 country to which Esporão exports is Brazil with whom they have a close partnership. Second is the United States where the group has their own import business team that’s building the brand. The international market is extremely important and part of their mission is to share “the value of organic Portugal wines.”
Annually, 16 million bottles are produced from their three estates plus another brand, Vinho da Mesa, a vin du pays. 70% are red wines and 30% are white wines. Within each region, estate grown grapes and grapes sourced from other vineyards are used.
When Joao Roquette took the helm of Esporão in 2006, he was “intrigued by a challenge of how to ensure a viticultural model that would enable the next generation to produce great wines and how to develop Esporão into an international brand.”
During the tasting, Roquette made it clear that Esporão takes a holistic approach towards its implementation of “innovative, sustainable practices across all business sectors.” Environmental sustainability through organic certification and a commitment to address climate change and social sustainability with regards to “social ethos, employee equality and social activism” are paramount. Cultural sustainability, too, via their efforts as cultural ambassadors of the region and experience centers is an important element as is personal sustainability whereby Esporão has adopted a “slow forward lifestyle.”
What is the “slow forward lifestyle?” In essence, Esporão believes that we should “drink life slowly. Progress slowly and with strength. Because slow is a power. Slow is progress. At a time when some reopening measures are gradually being adopted, after being forced to slow down, slowing down helps to convey renewal, energy and extra motivation.”
Progress and Change at Esporão Group
Due to climate change, Joao Roquette shared that the “producers in Portugal are moving away from international varieties in order to make rich, unique, character driven wines. It’s a trend that will continue – more indigenous grapes to our country will be grown.” Since 2008, an ampelographic field at their estate in Alentejo is the setting for research in order to understand which grape varieties (189 at this time) are able adapt to this climate change.
Weather stations to address the treatment of disease and automated irrigation systems have been implemented. Of note is that Esporão is “dialing back the oak and increased ageing is in concrete tanks with a focus on native grapes.” Small batch ferment reflects soil diversity and its expanding collection of grape varieties. White wine production is now at 30% and energy consumption is minimized thanks to gravity fed and underground tanks.
Our first wine, the refreshing Colheita White 2020 ($18), was produced from estate grown grapes, Antao Vaz, Vosinho, Alvarinho and others, in organically certified vineyards of schist rock with loamy clay. The wine was partially fermented in concrete tanks after which it was left on the lees for four months. The result was a creamy and fresh wine with tropical fruit aromas and flavors – a delight to sip.
Colheita Red 2018 ($18) was of Touriga Nacional, Aragonez, Touriga Franca, Cabernet Sauvignon and Alicante Bouschet grapes cultivated on the estate. Co-fermentation began in wine presses and with a nod to the past, foot treading at controlled temperatures ensued. Ageing for 6 months occurred in the concrete tanks. On the nose, ripe blackberries and dark plums with a hint of chocolate and spice let to a palate rife with plenty of lush fruit and minerality and framed with vibrant acidity and soft tannins.
Esporão Reserva White 2020 DOC Alentejo ($20) was from 15-25 year old estate vineyards on a soil type of granite/schist base with a loam/clay structure. Antao Vaz, Arinto, Roupeiro and other varieties were fermented – 70% of the batch went into stainless steel tanks and 30% in new American and French oak barrels. Maturation was for 6 months in stainless steel and American and French oak then ageing occurred on the lees. Intense aromas of peach, juicy grapefruit, mint and white pepper aromas were enticing. On the creamy palate, this elegant wine was balanced and fruit forward with a dash of spice and a lingering finish.
The first wine made by Esporão in 1985, Esporão Reserva Red 2018 DOC Alentejo ($25), was exceptional. Estate grown grapes of Aragonez, Trincadeira, Syrah, Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Cabernet Sauvignon and Alicante Bouschet were cultivated on 20-year-old (average age) vineyards of granite/schist origin with clay/loam structure. Ageing was for 12 months in American and French oak barrels and after bottling, the wine was aged for another 8 months. Bold and complex, this notable wine offered aromas of dark fruit compote, baking spice, espresso and cedar. On the palate, black fruit, more spice and dark chocolate led the path to a lasting finish.
Ready to embrace the “slow forward lifestyle?” Pour a glass of wine from Esporão and taste how it’s done.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
For more Grape Experiences and a free infographic “4 Keys to a Stellar Wine Pick” click here.
David N. Kirkman