Xinomavro Thrives in Naoussa Where Key Elements Define Its Character

When a flavorful lunch or dinner is on the radar, you’ll likely find me settled in a cozy booth and enjoying the ambiance of any of my favorite Greek restaurants. At each, I’ve discovered an array of mouthwatering dishes, both traditional and contemporary, that make me want to book a trip to Greece as soon as possible! Don’t worry – I haven’t forgotten the wines – you can be sure of that! Earlier this year, I was invited by the Wines of Naoussa and the American Wine School in Chicago to enjoy impressive dishes at Kostali by NAHA and take a deep dive into the world of Xinomavro. Yamas to that!

With so many varieties cultivated in this ancient country, everyone can find something to love… it’s a matter of deciding which! This month, my Wine Pairing Weekend (#WinePW) colleagues are exploring the wines of Greece and their articles are found below. I hope you’re inspired to visit their sites and learn more.

About Xinomavro

The name Xinomavro is derived from the words xino (sour) and mavro (black). Interestingly, though, the skin from the berries doesn’t have much color – they’re pale to medium ruby/garnet.

This red grape variety is sensitive to drought and high temperatures. To thrive, Xinomavro needs optimal terroir, just-right weather conditions, and low acreage yields since it can be overly productive. Bold and powerful with high acidity and powerful tannic structure, Xinomavro offers medium to full body. Complex aromas and flavors include those of red or black cherries, violets, olives, tapenade, tobacco, spices, tomatoes and herbs. Xinomavro gets better with ageing in oak barrels – it has the ability to be cellared for at least 10 years. From what I tasted at Kostali, Xinomavro is rightly considered one of the top Greek varieties.

PDO Naoussa

When you hear “Naoussa,” think Xinomavro although the variety is cultivated in other areas of Greece, too. The region’s wines have found their place “in the heart of Northern Greece at the foot of Mount Vermion.”

More than 20 wineries with vineyards covering about 500 hectares on southeastern slopes of mostly clay and loamy soil can be visited. Protected from the cold winds from the north, the vineyards are beneficiaries of the midday sun thanks to its cool Mediterranean climate and maritime influence from the Aegean Sea.  However, the array of combinations of sun exposure, orientation, altitude and topographic locations in Naoussa “shape the special behavior of the Xinomavro variety.”

During the 19^th century, Xinomavro, the wine of Naoussa, became known and was exported to Central and Eastern Europe. At the beginning of the 20^th century though, phylloxera appeared in Greece – vineyards were completely destroyed. By the 1970s, the vineyards of Naoussa were re-planted and now, they thrive. It was established as a Zone of Designation of Origin of Superior Quality in 1971. “Modern methods of cultivation, vinification, maturation and bottling were adopted and the quality of the wine, while keeping alive the elements of tradition, gives a new dynamic to the wines of Naoussa.”

Key Elements Defining the Character of Xinomavro from Naoussa

During our masterclass, our group tasted flights of Xinomavro while our wine educator, Jill Zimorski MS, explained.

“Different clones have different characteristics” that lend great versatility to the variety. Naoussa’s cool climate gives the wines a more powerful aroma yet a lighter body and less alcohol. Most importantly, too much vigor has the ability to alter clonal types, so it’s crucial to manage its growth.

During production, shorter skin contact and the use of wild yeast result in different and unexpected styles of Xinomavro. We can find still rosé (extra dry), sparkling rosé (semi-dry), light Bourgogne-style red that’s fresh and youthful and a Barolo style red with ageing potential of more than 25 years.

If grown in heavy soil, Xinomavro may be more robust and structured – its cultivation in lighter soil results in a more elegant, aromatic wine. If limestone is a component of the soil (especially the heavier soils), the wine is improved with regards to its color, body and aroma.

Finally, bottle ageing is a factor. Aged Xinomavro develops secondary characteristics that are rich in flavor, acidity and tannic structure. If interested in more comprehensive details, visit the Wines of Naoussa website here.

Enticed to pour a glass of Xinomavro as you learn more about this beautiful region? Immerse yourself in this outstanding video from PDO Naoussa.

Xinomavro and Food Pairings

Incredibly food friendly, young PDO Naoussa wines can be lovely complements to an array of cooked dishes with tomatoes or your choice of beef… barbecue anyone? Xinomavro with a bit of age begs for more complex fare such as venison, dishes with mushrooms or a platter of mature cheeses.

Our menu at Kostali paired with flights of Xinomavro from PDO Naoussa featured a unique set of courses that oozed the Mediterranean vibe.

Starters included Publican rustic bread and spreads (beet tzatziki, roasted pepper and eggplant ajvar, and whipped kefalotyri with honey and walnuts), broccoli and cauliflower fritto misto with capers, chickpeas, chermoula, pecorino, espelette and a Greek Salad with melon, tomato, cucumber, feta, marcona almonds, fig, ouzo and mint.

Each of the guests was able to choose either Prime Ribeye of Beef, Seared Scallops, Parisian Gnocchi or Braised Chicken Thighs.  I chose Seared Scallops with parsnip, grilled scallion, ramp vinaigrette, and spirulina so that I could taste the nuances of Xinomavro with seafood. Trust me, I was impressed with the selection of wines we were offered in each flight – from young to aged. My favorite wine paired with the scallops was fresh and young with bright acidity and a rich, flavorful finish.

Our desserts of Loukoumades with cinnamon and halva caramel and Almond and Saffron Cake with huckleberry, buttermilk and meringue were just sweet enough and made luscious pairings with Xinomavro, too – proving throughout the meal that this wine from Naoussa is as versatile as it gets!

According to mythology, Mount Vermion was also the home of Semele, the mother of Dionysus, god of vine and wine, and the area where Silenus, Dionysus’s inseparable companion and friend, roamed. PDO Naoussa

Yamas! ~ Cindy

For your free infographic, “4 Keys to a Stellar Wine Pick,” click here.

Enjoy the following articles from my #winePW colleagues.

Deanna is testing an “Almost Paleo Greek Menu + an Aged Sparkling Zitsa” at Wineivore

Gwendolyn is pairing “2 Organic Greek Wines with Grilled Fresh Fish” at Wine Predator

Nicole is showcasing “Three Off-the-Beaten-Path Pairings for Holiday Cheese & Charcuterie Platters” at Somm’s Table

Camilla is “Waiting for the Temperature Drop: Still Eating al Fresco and Pouring Moschofilero” at Culinary Adventures with Camilla

Andrea asks “Do You Know Fokiano?” at The Quirky Cork

David is having a “Greek Spaghetti Recipe and Wine Pairing” at Cooking Chat

Wendy is tasting “Assyrtiko from Santorini paired with Greek Mac and Cheese” at A Day in the Life on the Farm