Can you imagine visiting wine country without having background knowledge about the region and its wines? I can’t either! Any savvy traveler spends time on research in order to get the most out of the trip. Having been invited by the Bourgogne Wine Board to explore the region’s “stars and hidden gems” in early November, I was grateful for the opportunity to kick start the visit with a full morning of immersion in all-things-Bourgogne-wines at Ecole des Vins de Bourgogne located in Beaune. Although I had done preliminary research before leaving the United States, the morning spent learning more was a gift. Plus, there were wines…
Burgundy or Bourgogne?
Quick answer? Bourgogne.
The region and its producers are reverting to the original French name, Bourgogne. Believe it or not, Bourgogne is the only French appellation that adopted the name Burgundy for its English speaking export markets and Burgund for German speakers. Now, the traditional name Bourgogne is found on almost all of the wines produced, either by appellation designation or wine region labelling. In essence, “by maintaining its true identity, Bourgogne returns to its historical roots as the consummate brand treasured by consumers the world over.”
Where is Bourgogne?
A small region in east-central France, Bourgogne is about 230km from the north to the south. Fewer than 30K hectares are under vine and account for barely 4% of all French AOCs. Across Bourgogne, there are 84 flagship appellations, most of which enjoy an international reputation.
There are five winegrowing areas: Chablis & Auxerrois, Côte de Nuits & Hautes-Côtes de Nuits, Côte de Beaune & Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, Côte Chalonnaise & Couchois and Maconnais.
Photo Credit: Wine Folly
What About Wine Production in Bourgogne?
Many think that most wines produced in Bourgogne are red, Pinot Noir. Yet, they’re only 29% of the total! However, white wines of Chardonnay and to some extent Aligoté, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Blanc comprise the majority – at 60%. A sparkling wine, Crémant de Bourgogne, has been reaping more accolades and the style makes up 11% of the production.
Data from October 2020, states that wines from Bourgogne continue to be of high value. Revenue was 2B euros with 205.8M bottles sold. 50% of wines from Bourgogne are swirled and sipped in France and the remainder is exported to the United Kingdom (25%), United States (25%), Japan (17%), Canada, Belgium…
Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from Bourgogne
White wine from Bourgogne offers a range of aromas and flavors. In young wines, we may find vegetal and fresh fruit notes and in more elegant wines, floral notes and hint of minerality may be prevalent. Older wines may offer notes of spice and nuts.
Red wine, Pinot Noir, from Bourgogne expresses fresh fruit and vegetal notes when sipped young. Older wines that have spent time in oak barrels may offer elements of spice, earth, coffee, licorice and hints of bramble. Gamay is produced in Bourgogne, too, but in lesser quantities.
Terroir, the Soul of Bourgogne
In Bourgogne, “the word terroir refers to the unique interaction between the vines, an ensemble of natural elements, and hard work by winemakers. It’s the basis of the entire AOC system.” The expression of terroir is the combination of weather, soil and subsoil, plot orientation, a single varietal of Chardonnay or Pinot Noir and the longstanding expertise of the vignerons.
The region’s subsoil was formed between 135 and 195 million years ago. It’s mostly of marl and marine limestone from the Jurassic period. From that limestone that nourishes the vines, wines assume rich, mineral like characteristics.
The orientation of the plots and exposure of the hillside vineyards, at altitudes between 200-500 meters, help the vines better resist frost, provide a natural barrier against the winds from the west, maximize the amount of sunshine. They also offer a natural drainage system to prevent too much moisture. Ideal weather conditions include a relatively temperate climate, 2000 hours of annual sunshine and optimal amounts of rainfall. Naturally, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay thrive in these conditions thanks to their successful adaptation to the environment.
CHATEAU de la TOUR
With a plethora of multi-generational vignerons in Bourgogne, it’s no wonder that traditional methods coupled with those that are contemporary are found in the region. The style of the winemaker or enologist has an impact on the wine, but for the most part “their approach follows local practices.”
Of utmost importance is the climats, many specific delimited plots that were derived more than 2000 years ago. Each climat is worked using traditional practices and is distinct with its own aspect to the sun and geological and weather conditions. The climats of Bourgogne were added to the UNESCO World Heritage List on July 4, 2015
The Classification of Bourgogne Appellations
Unique to Bourgogne is the classification of Bourgogne appellations that express quality. The words to remember? Location, location, location! There are 33 Grand Cru AOCs (1% of the total of which the majority are located in the Cote du Nuits), 44 Village AOCs (47%) and 7 Regionale AOCs (52%). The different categories are found from the top to bottom of the slope in each village.
While in Bourgogne, I experienced wines from an array of Domaines as well as those from Maisons de Négoce and Caves Coopératives. What I discovered was that regardless of the classification (Grand Cru, Village Premier Cru, Village, Regionale), each wine was made with careful attention. Clearly, any level of classification is important.
We can never learn enough about wine. If you’re planning a trip to Bourgogne, bookmark this quick guide and supplement with your other research. When you arrive in the region, you can experience an exceptional wine tasting course to build upon the foundation, too. Although my colleague and I had a pre-set class, those at Ecole des Vins de Bourgogne are able to tailor courses for seven or more participants. For detailed information, click here.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
For more Grape Experiences and a free infographic “4 Keys to a Stellar Wine Pick” click here.
