Firriato Produces Notable Etna DOC Wines from Native Grapes

Respecting and preserving the past as they turn their eyes to the future of sustainability and creativity are those at Firriato located on the sun-drenched island of Sicily. A recent virtual tasting to which I was invited was led by Federico Lombardo di Monte Iato, COO of Firriato. By all accounts, he’s considered a “man of science and a man of passion for winemaking.” With a stellar academic career and sincere enthusiasm for the wine industry, Federico di Monte Iato’s work includes organic management of and sustainable practices in the vineyards and organizing experimental laboratories to recover the indigenous grapes of Sicily – the mission is to elevate their production so that they will become premium offerings and a hallmark of Firriato’s brand identity.

Federico shared that “my relationship with wine has deep roots.” Who could be better than Federico di Monte Iato to lead this educational experience and tasting of three wines of native grapes (sent as samples) from Etna DOC for wine media and journalists? (I can’t think of anyone either!)

 

Federico di Monte Iato shared that Sicily is like a “wine continent” where research has shown that viticulture dates back to over 6000 years. Found on the island are 80 native varietals, 13 indigenous varietals, a broad range of soil types (7 of 12 orders) and varied climate characteristics. Vineyards grow from sea level to 10,999 feet above sea level.

The Firriato winery was founded in 1998 by Salvatore and Vinzia Novara di Gaetano who desired to look for indigenous varieties “characterizing terroirs that only the Sicilian continent can offer.” Currently there are 470 hectares of organic certified vineyards. In fact, it’s the first zero impact winery in Italy. 7 estates that represent 7 different soil types are cultivated at Firriato. The Authentic Terroir Project is based on three specific locations of different terroir. The mountain (Etna Volcano) is of young sandy soils and the full-bodied character of the wines exude powerful mineral notes. Marine terroir (Favignana Island) has biocalcarenites soil of the quaternary period. Its wines offer salinity and balsamic notes. Hill terroir (Trapani countryside) is of red marlstones and calcareous clay soil and elegant, full-bodied wines are produced. For more about the history of Firriato, please click here.

Our virtual tasting focused on three Firriato wines from vineyards in Etna DOC where the winery’s first vintage was in 1994. Federico feels that Mount Etna, one of the most active volcanoes in the world, is “a little jewel, a treasure in this wine continent” and continued to explain. There are five different sides for viticulture: north, northeast, east, southeast and south. Thanks to its constant activity, different volcanic soils are rich in complex minerals. The mountain’s elevation is the highest in Sicily yet there are different climates: xeric, Mediterranean, mountain and Alpine. Its low latitude offers a unique solar irradiation and due to Mt. Etna’s proximity to the Mediterranean seas, a marine influence is noted.

Firriato’s vineyards are on the northern side of Mt. Etna and comprise 207 acres at 1800-3000 feet above sea level. Only native grapes grown among different single vineyards are found and white, red and sparkling wines using the traditional method are produced. This distinctive area is where the experimental vineyard containing unknown ancient native grapes is located.

The wines we tasted were from Firriata’s Volcanic line. Le Sabbie means “the sands” and each wine is of native grapes cultivated in well-drained loamy-sandy soils of volcanic origin.

Our tasting began with Le Sabbie dell’Etna Bianco 2019. Carricante, a “super native grape dating back over 1000 years ago” comprises 90% of the blend and Catarratto, a famous Sicilian grape, is the remainder. On the nose, fragrant notes of yellow florals, firestone, smoke and minerality were lively and distinct. The fresh palate with vibrant acidity was balanced and structured, and elements of white fruit, smoke, minerality and salinity were broad and complex. Suggested pairings include goat cheese, Asian cuisine, ceviche, oysters, spaghetti with white clam sauce, smoked meats at a barbecue… and even sea urchin or octopus! Aged for 3 months “sur lie” in stainless steel tanks, Federico suggested that the wine can age 2-5 years.

Easy drinking and quite special, Le Sabbie dell’Etna Rosé 2019 was elegant and refreshing. Nerello Mascalese grapes were cultivated in Firriato’s Cavanera estate in Castiglione di Sicilia. Federico shared, “In my opinion, Nerello Mascalese is a variety half way between Sangiovese and Pinot Noir.” The grapes were softly pressed for 2 hours with slight skin maceration and static sedimentation and spent 3 months “sur lie” in stainless steel tanks. A delicate shade of pink, this refined rosé offered aromas and flavors of raspberry, pomegranate, spice, minerality and the slightest hint of smoke. Enjoy a glass or two with anything or anyone!

 

“Red, fire and passion” are a few of the words Federico used to describe Le Sabbie dell’Etna Rosso 2018 of Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio grown at the Cavanera Estate. Creamy and elegant, I found ripe fruit including dark prunes and black cherries, licorice, baking spice, dried violets, hint of peppercorn and a sensation of minerality on the nose. On a foundation of moderate acidity and soft tannic structure, notes of dark juicy fruit, purple flowers and salinity were balanced and lively. Aged and fermented in stainless steel tanks, the wine matured for 6 months in the bottle. This exceptional wine complements seafood, grilled Ahi tuna, swordfish steak, pizza and lamb dishes (Federico’s favorite pairing).

 

 

Cheers! ~ Cindy

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