After visiting Anderson Valley in January 2020, my curiosity about the people who are responsible for such authentic wines from the area have continued. As luck would have it, I had the opportunity to chat with Lulu Handley, Proprietor of Handley Cellars, who grew up, along with her older sister, at her family’s winery and home in Anderson Valley.
Handley Cellars is a small, family-owned winery in California’s Mendocino County. Bonded in 1982, they produce around 9000 cases of wine a year and are CCOF Certified Organic Estate Vineyards in Anderson Valley. Handley is located at the northwest end of the Anderson Valley on 59 acres of the original Guntly Ranch. Still standing on the property are the now-refurbished ranch house, plus the barn and water tower, all of which were constructed in the early 20th century.
Photo Credit: Handley Cellars
Lulu told me that “in the back of my mind, I knew that I’d want to return to the winery, but I wanted to travel and collect experiences first.” Currently, Lulu is responsible for Handley Cellars’ sales and overall management. During the conversation, she made it perfectly clear that she’s passionate about continuing the Handley legacy of offering quality wines to consumers and nurturing the vineyards for generations that follow. Lulu told me that in essence, “a bottle of wine is our love letter to this place. Our winemaker, Randy Schock completely understands that, too.”
Photo Credit: Handley Cellars
After graduating from Anderson Valley high school, Lulu studied Rhetoric at UC Berkeley and worked part time at Chez Panisse. Her stint there was followed by an apprenticeship at Do Ferreiro Winery in Galicia, Spain where Lulu learned to appreciate everything about Albarino. Upon her return to the United States, Lulu lived in Maine and expanded her knowledge of old-world farming and homesteading skills. It was there that she met her husband Scott, a craftsperson and wooden boat builder. In 2016, the couple returned to Handley Estate in Anderson Valley and at the time we talked, she and Scott were parents of a 10-month-old son. Lulu’s next chapters are ready to be written.
After tasting two exceptional wines (sent as samples) from Handley Cellars, 2020 Rosé of Pinot Noir ($26) and 2016 Brut Rosé Estate Vineyard ($52), I knew that I had to hear the beginning of Lulu’s story about which she remarked, “I’m grateful to share this.” Read on.
Grape Experiences: What about your upbringing at Handley Cellars do you remember most?
Lulu Handley: Our family always had dinner together. It was sacred and whether meals were simple or creative, we always shared this as a family. I also remember being at the winery, four miles away from our house, as a girl. The school bus would drop me off and I’d hang out there until my mother was finished with work.
GE: How did your mother, Milla Handley, inspire you to return to Handley Cellars?
LH: My mother is the greatest inspiration. She grew up in a Bohemian atmosphere where she was allowed to be whoever she wanted to be. No one expected her to purse her passions and her own parents “let her be.” Mom never pressured my sister and me to do anything, but she instilled a sense of commitment and always said, “honor your words.” She always said that raising children was like nurturing the vineyards and making wines. They have to express their own qualities. (Note: Founding Winemaker Milla Handley sought to make balanced wines that possess distinctive varietal characteristics and reflect the soil and climate in which they were grown. Milla passed in 2020, but her spirit is very much alive and part of the daily work at Handley Cellars.)
Milla Handley – Photo Credit: Handley Cellars
GE: Are you implementing the old-world farming skills you learned in Maine at Handley?
LH: Not directly. I spend less time in the field since right now I do mostly administrative work. But in Maine, I learned the value of manual labor.
GE: What is the Handley legacy? How will you continue that?
LH: I’m excited about continuing the legacy for the next generations. On our property we have the original ranch home and the barn. We’re excited about restoring the old buildings where we can taste wines and have guests experience a sense of place. The silver lining of Covid is that we host tastings outside in a beautiful courtyard after a tour of the property.
GE: What are a few challenges of returning to Anderson Valley and working at Handley?
LH: The biggest challenge was re-introducing myself to the area where I grew up. I always run into people I’ve known and realize that there’s no escaping the past! But I have a sense of community and feel welcome. Another challenge is to “be where I am now,” but that’s a good challenge to have!
GE: Can you tell me a bit about the Rosé of Pinot Noir and Sparkling Brut Rosé?
LH: We don’t follow trends! The rosé has evolved through the years – it’s lean, dry, light and crisp and fruit-focused. It’s all estate grown Pinot Noir that’s farmed organically in our certified vineyards planted in 1990.
LH: I’m fascinated with the wine business as a business – it’s so complex. It’s agriculture, manufacturing, hospitality, marketing, compliance, science, financing, accounting and more! Connecting all of these things, then transforming wine which is really a luxury product into a consumer service is incredible.
GE: Share a bit about UC Berkeley and your experiences after.
LH: UC Berkeley was a culture shock! After college, I got a job at Chez Panisse where I was a wine runner. I stayed in the area after college, worked at a farmer’s market and a book store. I loved the art, music and food culture but missed home. The wine internship in Spain made me want to return to the country.
GE: When you’re not working at the winery, what are your other passions?
LH: I love travel but it’s tough to do that now! I also enjoy gardening, cooking, knitting, working in the woods, hiking and visiting museums.
GE: What was the last book you read?
LH: Where I was From by Joan Didion
Cheers! ~ Cindy
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