How many of you have tasted Cabernet Franc from New York State? A recent virtual tasting was my first time taking a deep dive into this variety from the state with more than a cursory sip and spit when I was in the Finger Lakes years ago. Hosted by Kevin Zraly, wine educator and author of Windows on the World Complete Wine Course, and four Cabernet Franc producers from Seneca Lake, Long Island, Hudson Valley and the Finger Lakes, a discussion about “the unofficial red grape of New York” began.
Thanks to the cool climate of four New York AVAs, Cabernet Franc is thriving. Bruce Murray from Boundary Breaks, Kareem Massoud from Paumanok Vineyards, Aaron Roisen from Lamoureaux Landing Wine Cellars, Matthew Spaccarelli from Benmarl Winery and Yancy Migliore from Whitecliff Vineyard and Winery shared their wines and thoughts.
Cabernet Franc
This iconic variety originated and flourishes in Bordeaux. It’s the parent to Cabernet Sauvignon and in Bordeaux, it’s blended with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot. In the Loire Valley, though, Cabernet Franc is used for single varietal wines. Cabernet Franc is a thinner-skinned grape with slightly lighter and softer tannins than its parent. It ripens quickly and does well in cooler climates (such as in New York!) and is planted throughout the world including Argentina, Canada, France, Italy, and California.
When cultivated in cool regions, Cabernet Franc offers notes of herbs and spice, bell pepper, sweet tobacco and purple flowers and often lower alcohol. In warmer areas, the wines may harken to Cabernet Sauvignon with ripe fruit and rich, deep spice notes.
Cabernet Franc from New York
During the tasting, the panelists agreed that “New York is a diverse state, but Cabernet Franc adapts well to its terroir.” What I found in the wines I tasted are characteristics that make this variety versatile and food friendly. It’s affordable, too. Several times during the conversation, it was stated, “Once we get it in people’s glass, they love it. Riesling from the Finger Lakes is world class… there is a huge potential for New York Cabernet Franc to be world class, too.” In fact, Kevin Zraly shared that “Cab Franc is the signature grape of New York.”
So, what was in my glass? Sent as samples, I tasted four wines.
Benmarl Winery is the oldest vineyard in the United States and is located in the Hudson Valley. Matthew Spaccarelli mentioned that Benmarl Hudson River Region Cabernet Franc Estate Grown 2019 ($40) is 100% Cabernet Franc. The darkest of all the wines tasted, aromas of ripe blackberries, vanilla, sweet spice and raspberries were intense. On the palate, I noted flavors of fresh black fruit, cherries, pepper, hint of chocolate, smoke and earth framed by vibrant acidity and firm yet soft tannins. Matthew remarked that “this wine is more focused and extracted than other vintages. We always deal with vintage variations and quality is the most important aspect.” Medium in body, the wine begged for food and Matthew suggested anything off the grill as a taste sensation.
A beautiful wine served with the slightest chill was Lamoureaux Landing Wine Cellars, 2020 T23 Unoaked Cabernet Franc ($20). Of 100% Cabernet Franc, this unoaked example was youthful and light in color. Intense aromas of just picked raspberries, black cherries, blueberries and strawberries were a mesmerizing entry. Thanks to carbonic maceration and stainless-steel aging, the palate profile was fresh and fruit forward with notes of cedar and smoke on a foundation of finely grained tannins and bright acidity. Adam Roisen shared that this is “a great outdoor barbecue wine and can also be enjoyed with lighter fare such as caprese salad and pasta dishes.”
Paumanok Vineyards is an estate winery located on the North Fork of Long Island. Founded in 1983, the 127-acre estate is owned and managed by the Massoud family. All wines are estate grown and production is limited to fewer than 12,000 cases. Kareem Massoud stated that Cabernet Franc thrives in their vineyards. On the nose of Paumanok Vineyards 2019 Cabernet Franc ($29) I found aromas of cherries, smoke, herbs, flowers, and spice. Medium bodied with high acidity ad soft tannins, I discovered notes of black fruit and rich cherries – the blend of 83% Cabernet Franc and 17% Merlot was exceptional. Kareem explained that this is “lighter in style with delicate, pretty notes. It’s a fun wine to drink with roast chicken, duck, game birds, burgers, meatloaf, pizza, cheeses and hearty fish dishes. Vegetarians may enjoy a glass with grilled vegetables, baba ghannoui or zucchini. In general it pairs well with herbs such as rosemary, sage, thyme or saffron.” Duly noted!
The takeaway? Find New York’s Cabernet Franc, chill it slightly and pour in the glass. Pair with food, compare it to Cabernet Franc from other regions in a blind tasting (for fun!) and share your thoughts. And don’t forget to check out each producer’s website for more details and information. Perhaps soon, we’ll find that Cabernet Franc will be selected as the “official red grape of New York.”
Cheers! ~ Cindy
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