It’s difficult to disagree with the statement “tradition is everything” when talking to Christophe Baron, owner of Bionic Wines, the family of brands that includes Cayuse Vineyards, No Girls Wines, Hors Catégorie Vineyards and Horsepower Vineyards. Just recently Christophe and I had a lively conversation during which I uncovered more about this renowned French vigneron, his story and specifically Horsepower Vineyards, an intriguing venture. In 2008 he was the first vigneron in the United States to begin the efforts to cultivate vineyards using draft horses in order to bring back methods of traditional agriculture utilized by his own ancestors in their vineyards in France.
Horsepower, Cayuseqm Milton Freewater
But that’s not all. Christophe Baron was the first grower to plant vines in the stones of the Walla Walla Valley in the Pacific Northwest – the project is Cayuse Vineyards – and in 2002, the first to introduce biodynamic farming techniques in the Valley. Christophe Baron also produces Champagne in his vineyards located in the Marne Valley where he spent his childhood. Just as compelling as Horsepower wines (sent as samples) is his story that reflects tradition every step of the way.
Enjoy the following Q&A with Christophe Baron.
Grape Experiences: Why is family tradition so important to you?
Christophe Baron: Tradition means everything to me. Thank you for beginning our conversation with this question. I’m originally from Champagne in an area southwest of Reims, in the Marne Valley. In fact, our vineyard is the first you see on the slopes when you arrive from Paris. My family have been vignerons since 1677 and documents show that the family was trading land with other villagers… vineyards, wheat fields, orchard and animals!
What is a vigneron? A wine grower, wine creator, wine seller… also a wine drinker. I love Champagne! In 1946, after World War II, my grandfather produced his first Champagne. When I was 15 years old, I drank Krug Champagne and was inspired! At 16, I went to oenology and viticulture school in Avize where I knew then what I wanted to do – make wine. Then I went to Beaune, Burgundy and Dijon at 19 years when I began to understood terroir.
Without my roots in Champagne, I never would have had the wings to travel around the world and start something from scratch in the United States.
Horsepower Champagne Christophe Baron Boxes: PHOTO CREDIT Andrea Johnson
GE: Why did you select Walla Walla Valley as the location for Horsepower?
CB: It was serendipity! I wasn’t supposed to be in Walla Walla! The big buzz was that Drouhin was in Oregon so I wanted to go there and improve my English. In 1993, I got a job in the Willamette Valley and one day I took a side trip to Walla Walla, Washington. I said, “OMG, it’s a 4.5 hour drive and there are no vines!”
Between that first trip to the Willamette Valley and my return in 1996, I went to Australia, New Zealand and Romania. In 1996 I stopped in Walla Walla and once I crossed the state line, I saw orchards then spotted a 10-acre block with no trees on the Oregon side. It was full of cobblestones that reminded me of the vineyards of the southern Rhône and Châteauneuf-du-Pape. I bought the land and planted Syrah. I was 26 years old at the time when I started Cayuse.
Since my first purchase in 1997, I’ve acquired more vineyard sites and vines.
GE: What is your style of winemaking?
CB: I’m a farmer so I respect the land – I’m a servant of Mother Earth. I farmed organically then switched to biodynamics in 2002. Sometimes I use a little new oak and sometimes not – it depends. The wine might need a little mascara and not full makeup that hides its natural beauty. I want to create a wine that speaks for itself and that’s food friendly.
GE: What are the biggest challenges so far at Horsepower?
CB: Biodynamic farming has been the biggest challenge. I push to “close the circle” by having animals (poultry, cattle, sheep), orchards and a team so that there’s a self-nourishing ecosystem. Seven days a week and twice each day, I must feed the gentle giants that are the horses! They need to be trained and cared for and I must train the team members, too. At Horsepower, there are 18 acres to farm with 4840 vines per acre – it’s a high-density vineyard.
The challenges pay off, though. Horsepower vineyards that are in the shade take longer to reach ripeness and we pick 7-10 days later at a lower brix. I do whole cluster fermentation and the wines are more of an old world style with lower alcohol and savory characteristics of umami, salt and spice.
Aerial drone perspective over vineyards at Horsepower, Walla Walla AVA, Milton Freewater, Oregon – PHOTO CREDIT Andrea Johnson Photography
GE: How about your biggest thrill at Horsepower?
CB: The biggest thrill is working with draft horses and preserving the tradition. My grandfather was the first in our family to purchase a tractor in 1957, but to keep the tradition of horses is the most important to me. Horsepower is the ONLY vineyard in the United States to completely use draft horses.
GE: What do each of the four vineyards bring to the wine? How is each unique?
CB: Well, each vineyard has volcanic stones in the riverbed and all are farmed the same. The vineyards are so close to each other so basically it’s called terroir and it’s always a mystery how wines can be unique.
GE: Are any new technologies implemented?
CB: No! The less I do the better. I’d rather have a big ego as a farmer than as a winemaker! Since 2011, I have no more 600 liter barrels. I use foudres for freshness since that’s the most important characteristic.
GE: When you’re not working in the vineyards, what are your hobbies or passions?
CB: I love travel! I flew back to France a month ago and will be going to Marseille soon. Before the shutdown, I was in Firenze for the New Year and New York. I also love exercise, skiing, boating (sailing), music and cooking for friends.
GE: Do you have a favorite food and wine pairing?
CB: There’s not an easy answer to this! Cooking is important to me and I’m open minded about food paired with wine and vice versa. The most important is with whom you’re with, of course! We drink Champagne every night with caviar, French sausages, bread, French fries…
The United States has the best salmon in the world. Horsepower Sur Echalas Vineyard Grenache with grilled sockeye salmon is incredible as is High Contrast Vineyard Syrah and grilled lamb with a Northern Africa rub. I also love Chateauneuf-du-Pape with ratatouille from the garden and Cru Brouilly with tête de veau (calf’s head).
CB: A three-star Michelin chef! (But I’d be fine working in a brasserie, too.)
Throughout our conversation, Christophe mentioned that “tradition is everything and in the long term it always pays off.” Harkening to Coco Chanel, he reiterated, “Tradition is greater than the trends.” For more about Christophe Baron and Horsepower, click here.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
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Carolyn Kerouac