Chianti Classico: One Region, Fascinating Stories, Unique Wines

When someone waxes poetic about a Tuscan experience accompanied by a memorable wine, they’re probably referring to Chianti Classico. With a stunning landscape and a rich, noble heritage, Chianti Classico remains at the forefront of Italian viticulture. Recently, I had the pleasure of attending a tasting (invited by IEEM and the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico) of hundreds of wines from a plethora of producers. What I discovered were not only exceptional wines, each offering a distinct, complex profile, but an opportunity to continue the conversation with a few producers in Italy who were excited to share their stories.

But first. How do we know that a wine is from Chianti Classico? Look for the Black rooster trademark on the label!

The iconic Black rooster is the historic symbol of the Chianti Military League and harkens to a legend dating to medieval times. By all accounts, the Republics of Florence and Siena were fighting for dominance of the Chianti territory. To end the disagreement, it was agreed that two knights from each city would fix the boundary point at where they met. They were to leave at dawn with the signal to begin the journey given by a rooster crow.

Actually, more importance was given to the choice of rooster than the rider of the horse! The knight from Siena chose a white rooster and the knight from Florence chose the black rooster that was kept in a tiny, dark coop. This black rooster was practically starved for so many days that “it was desperate.” As you may expect, the black rooster began to crow before dawn so the knight from Florence began his journey with a significant head start. He met with the Sienese knight only 12 kilometers from the latter’s departure point. The result? Almost all of Chianti was governed by the Republic of Florence, much earlier than the defeat of Siena.

Chianti Classico DOCG

Within the region of Tuscany, six of Italy’s DOCGs (each with its own production regulations, production zones and consortiums) are located. One of the DOCGs is Chianti Classico. Wines from Chianti Classico are required to have a minimum of 80% Sangiovese grapes and a maximum of 100%. Sangiovese is the typical red variety in the region. No more than 20% of red grapes including indigenous varieties such as Colorino or Canaiolo and international varieties including Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot can be added.

 

The total area of the zone amounts to 71,800 hectares (177,500 acres) and includes the entire territories of the municipalities of Castellina in Chianti, Gaiole in Chianti, Greve in Chianti and Radda in Chianti and parts of those of Barberino Tavarnelle, Castelnuovo Berardenga, Poggibonsi, and San Casciano Val di Pesa. The characteristics of the climate, terrains and altitudes have made Chianti Classico a region that excels in the production of premium wines.

Rows of vines alternating with olive orchards are a characteristic feature of the Chianti landscape. About 7,200 hectares (18,000 acres) of vineyards entered on the DOCG Register for the production of Chianti Classico make this appellation one of the most important in Italy. In the last 10 years, approximately 270,000 hl (7,135,000 gallons) have been produced with exports to more than 130 countries. Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico

It’s no surprise that I was intrigued by the special wines, each with its own expression of Sangiovese, and couldn’t wait to learn more. As a follow up to the event, I talked to three producers from three different areas within the Chianti Classico zone via zoom.

Each told a part of their story. The common thread? Although Chianti Classico is one region with one predominant variety, the wines are distinct and nuanced. Read on.

Roberto Stecchi – Badia a Coltibuono    

Roberto Stecchi from Badia a Coltibuono was a delight as we chatted about all things Chianti. A 6^th generation winemaker, his winery is in Gaiole between Florence and Siena. From 1051 through 1810, the property was operated by Benedictine monks – Roberto’s family purchased the property in 1846. Now, Badia a Coltibuono is not only involved in winemaking, but in agriturismo with a bed and breakfast program, olive groves, eco-farming and more.

 

60 hectares of vineyards produce mostly Sangiovese. The conversion to organic farming began in the 1980s and since 2000, it is certified organic. Currently, Roberto is working towards an additional and quite extensive certification from Switzerland. A fervent advocate of organic farming, he stated that “healthy soil means vines are better fed – this is key – and soil is able to retain moisture more effectively. Organic practices help the quality and nuances of the wines.”

One of the wines I couldn’t get enough of at the tasting was Badia a Coltibuono Vin Santo. “This dessert or digestif wine is part of the history of Chianti,” Roberto said. “It’s the least vintage sensitive wine and the result in the glass depends on the process – how it’s made versus the grapes. Everyone makes Vin Santo differently.”

Of note: The Vin Santo I tasted is of Trebbiano and Malvasia grapes that were harvested then dried while hanging on racks in a well-ventilated space. On the drier side of the sweetness spectrum, notes of nuts, honey, toasted almond, golden raisins and caramel were exceptional with freshly baked almond biscotti.

Roberto continued. “There’s a Chianti for every palate thanks to the many styles. Chianti Classico is the most important wine with full expression and representation of Sangiovese. Not too dense and concentrated, Chianti Classico is light, balanced and very food friendly.”

Giovanni Puccini – Podere Terreno     

Located in Radda, a small medieval village in the center of Tuscany, is Giovanni Puccini, an agronomist, owner, and winemaker at Podere Terreno. During our conversation, I saw and heard his passion for the land that he purchased in 2015. In fact, he showed me a copy of the first description of the property that was dated 1465 and shared that “here, nothing is changed. This uniqueness is reflected in the wines I produce.” With a farmhouse, wine tasting and events, bed and breakfast offerings, and production of wines and olive oil, Giovanni Puccini and the team are quite busy.

 

“Radda is so special because of the different soils that are exceptional. In my vineyard, the loamy clay soils are rich in galestro and alberese rocks at 540 meters above sea level. I chose this property because of the chemical analysis. Good structure, good climate, good acidity – you don’t find this everywhere in Tuscany.” Vineyards comprise 6 hectares and are between 12 and 30 years old.

Giovanni uses no herbicides or pesticides and believes in minimal intervention and the use of cover crops. He shared that “it’s easy to farm organically in a climate like this. Hot days and cool nights are optimal.”

He cultivates Sangiovese, of course, but also Colorino, Malvasia Nero and Trebbiano. Although they offer Reserva and Gran Selecione wines, Giovanni admitted that he prefers the Chianti Classico with one year of ageing. Why? “You can taste the possibilities!”

Emilia d’Orsi – Casaloste 

“We want to share the passion,” said Emilia d’Orsi at the beginning of our conversation and I could see the joy in her expressions. She and her husband Giovanni Battista d’Orsi, an agronomist and enologist, own Casaloste located in the Chianti hills in Panzano, a village of 800 people, in the municipality of Greve, close to Florence.

The couple came to Tuscany from Naples about 29 years ago. Giovanni’s dream was “to own a winery and be a winemaker,” shared Emilia. “We came to Tuscany for holiday and never left! Wineries were for sale in the 1990s – there was great change in the region. We bought an abandoned house which was a challenge because there was no water, but my husband had a vision.”

 

A former banker, Emilia handles sales, marketing, contacts with customers and administrative work. Giovanni personally oversees all winemaking processes from harvesting to refinement of the wines in French oak casks to bottling which is done on the property. If that’s not enough, Casaloste offers two apartments where visitors can enjoy stunning views, Tuscan fare and delicious wines.

Casaloste has 10.5 hectares of vineyards on clay, sand and rocky soils. 90% is planted with Sangiovese – Merlot and some local varieties comprise the balance. About 60,000 bottles are produced each year. Their vineyards are positioned east to west so sunshine is abundant. “Because summers are hot, the alcohol levels are 15%, but we’re able to balance this out because the vineyards are in different places,” shared Emilia.

 

“Giovanni and I decided to farm organically when we purchased the property in 1992. Organic viticulture equals quality, although in the 1990s it wasn’t very popular. However, once people tasted our organic wines, they were hooked.” Now, 99% of the wineries in Panzano are organic and the Panzano Vintners Association, 22 members strong, has as its focus sharing information, knowledge, quality and friendship. In fact, Giovanni was one of the founders of the association more than 25 years ago.

“We want to show that even though everyone is a part of Chianti Classico, the wines can be different. Terroir, landscape with its aspect, soil and climate, and the human touch affect the finished product.”

One region, fascinating stories, unique wines. That’s Chianti Classico.

Cheers! ~ Cindy

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