What’s not to love about a glass of pure Chablis, one of my favorite regions where Chardonnay is cultivated? During a recent virtual tasting led by Christy Canterbury, Master of Wine (MW), our group of journalists and media agreed that Chablis ticks the boxes of what we love in Chardonnay. A fresh, complex profile? Check. Chalky minerality? Check. Racy acidity? Check. Each one of the exceptional four wines (sent as samples) represented the versatility and expressions of the four tiers of Chablis AOC.
About Chablis
Chablis accounts for 20% of all wines from Bourgogne. There are four Chablis appellations: Petit Chablis, Chablis, Premier Cru, and Chablis Grand Cru. Often referred to as “The Golden Gate to Bourgogne,” the region of Chablis is located in north central France on either side of the river Serein and is only 1 ½ hours from Paris. Much of Chablis, the northernmost area of Burgundy, is cultivated in vineyards on a soil bed of clay, marl, and Kimmeridgian limestone laid down over 150 million years ago. These elements are crucial in giving the wines of Chablis its signature characteristic: minerality. Further, clay gives more weight to Chablis and limestone offers texture and lightness on the palate. The climate is considered “modified oceanic” in that ocean influences are moderated by Chablis’ inland location and further revised by Eastern European continental factors.
Petit Chablis is, for the most part, planted on plateaux found in vineyards of Portlandian soil and nestled on the hillside. The largest of the four appellations in terms of surface area, both planted and limited, is Chablis. Compared to Petit Chablis, wines from this appellation tend to be stronger in structure and offer a rounder mouthfeel and longer lasting finish.
Climat, a traditional Bourgogne word referring to “precisely delimited plots of land that enjoy specific geological and climactic conditions”, is of paramount importance to the region of Chablis. The conditions of the land as well as the talent of the winemaker result in a patchwork quilt of crus. In Chablis, forty-seven climat named vineyards appear on wine labels: forty for Chablis Premier Cru and seven for Chablis Grand Crus. Each climat has rich and unique characteristics depending on the soil and exposure – landscape and hillscape are utilized to the maximum.
Pour a glass of any of the following wines, sent as samples. For a classic pairing, have a bountiful platter of fresh oysters on the half shell or any of the following foods suggested in my past article, Beyond Oysters: What Other Foods Pair with Chablis?
Pour a glass of Isabelle et Denis Pommier Chablis 2018 ($25) and steam soft shell crabs for a taste sensation! On the nose of this ultra-satisfying wine, I found enticing notes of green grass, green apple, lime, floral, flint, chalk, and minerality. Layered flavors of ripe apples, peaches, herbs and the slightest hint of cinnamon were notable.
Chablis Premier Cru and Grand Cru tend to have more flavor concentration and intensity and a longer finish than village level Chablis. Chanson Chablis Premier Cru Montée de Tonnerre 2018 ($73) is from one of the oldest wine producers in Bourgogne. The location of the parcel for this Chardonnay, in the northeast of the village of Chablis near the Grand Crus, is considered among the best Premiers Crus of Chablis. Intense aromas of toasted bread, spice, oyster shell and florals were a rich entry to the broad and chewy palate that offered vibrant acidity, minerality and a briny finish. Pair with lobster, sea scallops, pate and of course, my favorite, goat cheese!
Louis Michel & Fils Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir 2014 ($58) has the ability to age for decades… if you can hold onto it that long! Highly rated, this Chablis Grand Cru has been described as the “pure essence of the terroirs” which includes diverse soil types on north facing parcels. Concentrated and rich, the complex Chablis offered freshly picked flowers, rhubarb, buttery brioche and salinity on the nose. On the palate, I explored layers of more florals, acacia, tea, spices, stony minerality and subtle notes of tropical fruit.
I’ve never been disappointed with the many Chablis wines I’ve sipped. Which will you pour tonight?
Cheers! ~ Cindy
Ready to visit France? Join me on AmaWaterways’ Colors of Provence cruise along the Rhône River from April 7-14, 2022. Together, our group will wine, dine and explore this beautiful part of the world. Click here for the luxurious details.
The Rhone River at Avignon – Photo Credit: www.amawaterways.com
