One of the most popular wineries in Walla Walla, Washington is also one of my favorites: L’Ecole No. 41. Last month, I published an article celebrating its 2018 Syrah, Estate Seven Hills Vineyard, Walla Walla Valley. In February, I wrote Wine Tonight: L’Ecole No. 41 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley. It seems like I can’t get enough of their wines, the winery’s backstory and intriguing conversations with Marcus Rafanelli, Winemaker, and Constance Savage, General Manager. Now that I’ve tasted L’Ecole No. 41 2020 Chenin Blanc Old Vines Yakima Valley (sent as a sample), I can’t get enough of that either!!
About Chenin Blanc
Chenin Blanc is one of the most versatile wine grapes in the world. Depending on where it’s cultivated (and it’s grown around the globe), Chenin Blanc can be made into a sparkling wine such as Crémant de Loire, one that’s dry or off-dry, and a sweet, beautifully balanced dessert wine. It can be simple and fresh or complex and aged in oak. The climate of the wine region will largely dictate whether Chenin Blanc is produced in a predominately sweet or dry manner, while the vineyard soil will generally influence the overall style of the wine.
Chenin Blanc offers an array of aromas and flavors but one single characteristic is found in each sip – brilliant acidity.
Photo Credit: wineaccess.com
In many New World regions, Chenin may be considered a worker bee because it can contribute acidity to bulk white blends. Chenin Blanc is finicky in terms of cultivation. Viticultural hazards include botrytis in less-than-ideal conditions, damage from springtime frost, powdery mildew, and fungal disease that affects the wood structures of the grape vine. Grape growers work to manage these challenges with integrated pest management and rootstock selection. In fact, if the vine’s natural vigor isn’t controlled, Chenin Blanc offers more neutral flavors than an expression of terroir.
So, what does Chenin Blanc taste like? The range of aromas and flavors include those of apple, melon, quince, mandarin orange, verbena, jasmine, straw and lanolin. In general, Chenin Blanc provides a fairly neutral stage for the expression of terroir, vintage variation and the winemaker’s style.
By the turn of the 21st century, there was twice as much Chenin Blanc planted in South Africa (historically called “Steen”) as there was in France. It’s also grown in Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, South America, Canada and the United States. Wherever Chenin Blanc is grown, its signature element is vibrant acidity.
L’Ecole No. 41 2020 Chenin Blanc Old Vines Yakima Valley
Enlightening as always, Marcus Rafanelli, Winemaker at L’Ecole No. 41 explained that 2020 Chenin Blanc Old Vines Yakima Valley is a Vouvray style Chenin Blanc, as found in the Loire. Having sipped Vouvray with sushi a couple of weeks ago, I noted that he was (as usual!) correct. With a touch of residual sugar (1%), The winery has been producing this style of wine since 1987 and truth be told, I’m hoping they continue. This year, 3200 cases are offered to fortunate wine lovers.
Chenin Blanc grapes were cultivated in Willard Farms, Upland Vineyard and Phil Church vineyards, all planted in 1979 and within 15 miles from each other, in the cool-climate region of Yakima Valley. Constance Savage, General Manager, remarked that the vines are “gnarly, reliable and beautiful” and that the “fruit from the old vines are begging to be wines.”
On the rich and opulent nose and palate, I explored chalk, stone fruit, white florals, honeysuckle, citrus peel, lemon, nectarine and tropical fruit notes. The complex and lingering finish burst with minerality and its signature characteristic, acidity, was brilliant. Rafanelli shared that to “bring down the bracing acidity in the beginning,” he used malolactic fermentation on 1/3 of the wine then blended it with the rest. The result was a Chenin Blanc with a soft mouthfeel, weight and depth. Frankly, it’s difficult to believe that this wine is a mere $17.
Of course, the 2020 Chenin Blanc Old Vines Yakima Valley shines without food, too. Enjoy the lush aromas and have a few sips by the pool for a perfect afternoon. I’m ready to pour a glass right now.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
For your free infographic, “4 Keys to a Stellar Wine Pick,” click here.
