Gaja Family Wines Reflect the “Music of Life”

Angelo Gaja, patriarch of the iconic Italian family often considered a barometer in Italian winemaking, made a cameo appearance from his vineyard during a recent virtual tasting. As he was walking up the hill, there were humming sounds in the background. “Bees, insects, butterflies are the music of life. Vineyards are full of this life!” he remarked. From his words alone, it was apparent that this man is passionate about his life’s work.

Present at the tasting were Gaia Gaja and Giovanni Gaja who affirmed their father’s fervor for life, the land and winemaking. “Our dad has a passion and commitment to what he does and it’s instilled in us. Today, all of our family works in the winery and we live close to each other. There is a love of family and a love of vineyards,” shared Giovanni. Raised in Barbaresco, a village of 500 people, Gaia stated that growing up, the family enjoyed a “simple life.” In keeping with the philosophy of unpretentiousness is their flagship wine from Barbaresco, produced by every generation for over 160 years. Delicate, less tannic and less powerful, this “family wine,” as Gaia said, reflects the “less is more” mantra embraced throughout all generations.

During the evening’s tasting, our group focused on three superior wines from Gaja family estates in Bolgheri, Tuscany, Montalcino, Tuscany and Barolo, Piedmont. With every sip, I found the music of life that is distinctly Gaja.

Bolgheri is located in the northern part of Maremma. Influenced by the sea, the area exudes “simple beauty” with wines that are bright, opulent and richly expressive. Gaia explained that there’s an exchange between the cool wines from the sea to the mountains and vice versa. The result is a landscape with warm days and cool nights, optimal for grape growing. Prior to 1994, when Bolgheri was designated DOC, the area produced table wines. Angelo Gaia had the foresight to purchase land, then planted vines. It was a risk to begin a new venture, but the land spoke and he answered. Ca’Marcanda was established.

Ca’Marcanda Magari 2018 ($63) is a blend of 60% Cabernet Franc, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Petit Verdot. The three varieties fermented and macerated separately for 15 days. After ageing in oak for 12 months, the grapes were blended and aged for several months in the bottle prior to release. Fresh and ripe with aromas of fresh red berries and sea breezes, I was impressed. The palate burst with elements of dark chocolate, wood, herbs, blood oranges and bright citrus. This beauty has to ability to age about 20 years.

The Gaja family acquired property in prestigious Montalcino in 1994 when Angelo decided to “challenge himself yet again with a new wine.” Giovanni shared that the elevation of the vineyard “protects the vines from fall and spring frosts.” Sangiovese is a very moody,” but the white rocky soils in the area, located in the southwest corner of the Brunello di Montalcino appellation, are ideal for its cultivation. Pieve Santa Restituta is named after the parish church (pieve) that’s on the property. Church records show that wine has been produced in and around Montalcino since the 12^th century.

Pieve Santa Restituta Brunello di Montalcino 2015 ($95), of 100% Sangiovese, sang with precision. Aromas of anise, baking spice and red berries wafted from the glass. Balanced with velvet-like tannins and bright acidity, the round palate offered flavors of wet rocks, balsamic, black olives, ripe cherries, oregano and sundried tomatoes. Grapes from different parcels fermented and macerated separately for three weeks. Aged for 24 months in oak, wines were blended then aged for another six months in concrete vats. Textured and complex, this wine can age for up to 15 years.

For five generations, since 1859, the Gaja family has been producing wines in the Langhe hills of Piedmont. A mix of soil type, exposure, altitude, proximity to the water and more are significant factors that have helped the family achieve their goals… and accolades. Gaia explained that often Barolo is compared to Burgundy. Yet, Barolo is not from single sites like in Burgundy – wines are the same variety, of course, but from different parcels.

GAJA DaGromis 2016 ($99) is 100% Nebbiolo, a variety that Giovanni feels like “you’re being kicked in the face by a ballerina” thanks to its structure, austerity and softness. The wine in my glass burst with lavender, violets, rose petals and anise then led to an intricate structure and delicacy on the palate. Framed with soft tannins and moderate acidity, I found notes of red currants, citrus, juicy tangerine, white pepper and a lingering, fresh finish. The DaGromis 2016 was aged for 2 months in oak, followed by blending and 18 more months in large oak casks.

 

Cheers! ~ Cindy

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