The Fascinating History & Wines of Crete – Guest Post by Anna Maria Kambourakis

Idyllic beaches and incredible hospitality bring thousands of visitors to Crete every summer. Once tourists arrive, they are often stunned by the fantastic wines they are served especially since Crete’s wine reputation suffered considerably in the past. A lot has changed in the Cretan wine industry in the last generation and the wines have improved tremendously.

Crete is the largest and southernmost island of Greece. It was once, quite literally, the center of the wine trade in the eastern Mediterranean. Winemaking began on the island nearly 4000 years ago when the Minoan civilization thrived.  It’s that central location that made Crete vulnerable to invasion and occupation. This year in 2021, Greece is celebrating 200 years since the start of the revolution against the Ottoman empire. While Greece was liberated in 1829, it wouldn’t be until 1898 that Crete would become independent.

Independence did not lead to peace. Crete was annexed into Greece in 1913 following the Balkans Wars. Soon after Greece was involved in World War I, then showed incredible heroism during WWII, followed by a Civil War and then a dictatorship. From the wine side, in addition to bombs destroying vineyards and men taking up arms instead of sickles, the final blow came from devastation from phylloxera.

When democracy was finally established in 1974, the Cretan wine industry was in shambles. Crete became known for bulk wines of inferior quality because tourism began before the wine industry could recover. Visitors would come in the 60’s, 70’s, and 80’s and admire the Cretan way of life, the delicious food, imposing mountainside, and of course lay for hours by the sea under the Cretan sun. When it came time for dinner at the local tavern, the wines were modest at best.

There were very few private wineries at the time. Most of the farmers were selling their grape to the cooperatives who were turning out subpar wines. There was little incentive to create wines of quality.

So what changed?

Greece joined the European Union in 1981. Slowly but surely funding started to trickle into the island and farmers began to plant vineyards again. Throughout the 80’s there was emphasis on what the wineries thought they could sell. Erroneously, indigenous grape varieties were tossed aside for international powerhouses like Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Merlot. This was an ill-conceived strategy as there was far too much competition for the varieties and no way to stand out in the crowd.

When massive EU funding started flowing into Crete at the turn of the century, farmers could now begin investing in their own wineries instead of being at the mercy of the coops. There was a movement towards privatization with new modern wine equipment, temperature control, new oak barrels et all that was cost prohibitive previously. This was the impetus to the increase of quality.

In order to differentiate themselves on the market, Cretan wineries began planting and producing wines from the 11 indigenous grape varieties that survived.

With new machinery, updated wineries and technologies, and a focus on local grape varieties, there was only one piece left to complete the puzzle; an educated winemaker. The sons and daughters of the farmers start leaving Crete to attend oenology school in France, Germany, Italy, and California. When they returned to their family farm, they were ready to implement all they had learned. This new generation of winemakers was unstoppable. The quality of the wines of Crete have skyrocketed since the early 2000’s.

What of those indigenous varieties?

Crete boasts 11 indigenous grape varieties that are only found on the island. They are the red grapes Mandilari, Liatiko, Kotsifali, and Romeiko, and the white varieties Vilana, Vidiano, Muscat of Spina, Malvasia, Plyto, Dafni, and Thrapsathiri.

Mandilari, sometimes spelled Mantilari or Mantilaria, is a red grape with firm tannins, deep ruby colors, and great acidity. It is often blended with Kotsifali to complement Kotsifali’s fruity character and to create bolder wines. Mandilari and Kostifali make up the blend for the Peza region designation.

Liatiko has recently stolen the spotlight from the other red grapes. It is named after the month of July when it ripens. However, new winemakers are letting Liatiko stay on the vine a bit longer resulting in elegant red wines with mild tannins,bright fruit, and sweet spice characteristics.

Romeiko is the most widely planted grape variety in western Crete, though you’ll hardly find a bottle of it as a red wine. It’s the wine of the villages consumed in mass. However, the modern wineries in Chania are making delicious sun-dried dessert wines of Romeiko as well as making blanc de noir wines that burst with tropical fruit.

Crete has 7 white grape varieties. The aromatic white grapes are Muscat of Spina and Malvasia. The Cretan Muscat dates back to the Roman period. In the village of Spina, the vineyards are still planted in narrow rows like they were 2000 years ago. Both these white grapes are bursting with floral and stone fruit character.

Crete considers Vidiano its sweetheart grape variety. It’s a white grape with immense potential. The naturally creamy texture and floral aromatics often draw comparisons to Viognier and Chardonnay. Similarly, it’s delicious when fermented in stainless steel as well as aged in barrels. Unoaked Vidiano is lemony and bright, while a little oak creates inviting aromas of baked fruit tarts.

Vilana is the wine to enjoy when sipping by the sea side with its bright acidity and uncomplicated profile. Because Vilana is high yielding, it is planted throughout the island. When winemakers lower their yields, Vilana can show beautiful aromatics and flavors.

The final three native grapes varieties in Crete are very rare. Farmers thought Plyto and Dafni were completely extinct until a few rows of each were discovered accidentally. Plyto has the potential to remind wine drinkers of Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc with amazing grapefruit and mineral character. Dafni is so named because it has the unmistakable smell of bay leaf. There’s still so much to expect from this grape.

Last but not least, the most difficult grape to pronounce, Thrapsathiri, will likely lead the pack and be the grape that Crete is known for. This grape is already showing so much potential in the few years that winemakers have been working seriously with it. What’s marvelous about Thrapsathiri is its ageing potential. Ten-year-old bottles are shocking sommelier throughout the world as no one expected the quality, complexity, and outstanding character of this rare grape.

Cretan wine is worthy of exploration. The wines are unique and reset for a tired palate. Cretan wineries are working tirelessly to keep moving in the right direction towards quality and authenticity. Almost all the wineries of Crete are open to visitors year-round. If you’d like to join me and explore the wines of Western Crete, you can book a tour with my company, Chania Wine Tours.

About the Author

Anna Maria Kambourakis is a Certified Sommelier, owner of Chania Wine Tours, and wine blogger at Unraveling Wine. When she isn’t giving wine tours on the island of Crete or writing new useful blog posts, she loves to travel to wine destinations, try out new recipes, and spend time at the beach with her family.

Cheers! ~ Cindy

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