A Wine Journey is the Destination: Discovering Zweigelt and Blaufrankisch from Burgenland, Austria

Often, we take the easy, comfortable route and select the same ‘ole wines again and again. Why? We like them, of course! There are times, though, when it’s prudent to find another path on that wine road. Who knows what unique wine we can find? On my latest journey, I veered off the trail and discovered two very interesting red wines from Burgenland in Austria: Höpler Zweigelt Burgenland 2017 and Lua Pele Blue Frankish 2018 (Blaufrankisch), both sent as samples.

I’ve only visited Austria once. When I backpacked through Europe with my college roommate, we meandered through Salzburg and set foot in the gazebo on the grounds of the “Sound of Music” home, but never did those feet touch vineyard soils! Naturally, I was curious about these wines. Cue the “research!”

Austria is a cool climate country that produces wines with glorious aromatics. However, Burgenland, the most eastern of Austrian federal states, is influenced by a hot continental climate and influences of Lake Neusiedl. The relatively long growing season lasts for up to 250 days. The highest point in the province is on the border with Hungary, at 2900 feet above sea level and the lowest point (also the lowest point in Austria) is only 374 feet above sea level.

The predominant grape varieties grown in Burgenland include Welschriesling, Chardonnay (Morillon), Weisburgunder (Pinot Blanc), Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris), Gelber Muskateller, the Traminer family, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling. Red grapes include Zweigelt, Blaufrankisch and St. Laurent or Blauburgunder (Pinot Noir) The area produces “opulent and authoritative red wines” as well as full bodied, complex whites and beautiful sweet wines.

The red variety, Zweigelt, was created in the 1920s by Professor Fritz Zweigelt when he crossed Blaufrankisch and St. Laurent. It became widely recognized after World War II and now it’s the most cultivated red wine variety in Austria. A fertile grape, Zweigelt is relatively easy to grow and because of that, it demands a fair amount of yield regulation. In general, the variety offers a slight violet-red color and moderate tannins. Full bodied with the ability to age, wines of Zweigelt may present rich cherry flavors in the glass.

Blaufrankisch was first documented in the 1700s in Austria that, at the time, was considered Germany. The name for the variety was Lemberger (Limberger) and was used as a crossing partner for Zweigelt, Blauburger, Roesler and Rathay. Now, Blaufrankisch is cultivated in the north, central, and southern areas of Burgenland as well as in eastern Niederösterreich. Typically, the late ripening variety presents deep forest berry or cherry notes and bright acidity. Dense with gripping tannic structure when young, Blaufrankisch shines with age.

Höpler Zweigelt Burgenland 2017 ($21) is produced by a family-owned winery located southeast of Vienna, in Burgenland. Their 50 hectares of vineyards are in the Leithaberg Hills on the shores of Lake Neusiedl. Because of their location, a wide range of wines are produced. As a reminder to my Sound of Music tour years ago, the Höpler winery is famous for making the house wines for the Trapp Family Lodge! Their wines are also found at the Vienna State Opera Ball and customers include Thomas Keller (French Laundry in Yountville), Jamie Oliver, Bobby Flay (Mesa Grill in New York), and Gordon Ramsay among many others.

Elegant with intense and savory aromas of earth, dark plums, dried leaves, herbs and spice, I was impressed with this wine’s bright acidity and soft tannic structure. On the palate, flavors of lush cherries, cracked pepper, minerality and spice led to a lingering finish. Vinification was 90% stainless steel tank and 10% in used oak for four months. Paired with barbecued pork sandwiches, this wine was a clear winner! Bonus? The wine has only 12.5% alcohol… For more, click here.

Lua Pele Grande Reserve Red Wine Blue Frankish (Blaufrankisch) 2015 ($21) was crafted by an Austrian winemaker who was inspired by the beauty and spirit of Hawaii. “Lua Pele” is the Hawaiian word for volcanic eruption. “The color and power of this well matured heavy red wine” reminded Georg Dujmovits, winemaker, of his first exploration to Hawaii and “the power and the magic of the lava flow at the Big Island.”

The wine offered enticing aromas of ripe cherries and plums with subtle notes of blackberries, figs, and balsamic. On the palate, energetic acidity and satin-like tannins framed red fruit notes, a bit of spice and forest floor leading to a lasting finish. Aged for 16 months in new and used French barrique barrels, this Blaufrankisch can be aged until 2030. An exceptional pairing was an aged cheese plate followed by a juicy rib eye still sizzling from the grill. For more, click here.

Discovering Zweigelt and Blaufrankisch from Burgenland, Austria? The wine journey was the destination!

Cheers! ~ Cindy

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