Meet the Winemaker: Joe Nielsen, Director of Winemaking – Ram’s Gate Winery

Perhaps you’ve already heard of Joe Nielsen, Director of Winemaking since 2018 at Ram’s Gate Winery in Sonoma County. Possibly you’ve tasted wines from Donelan Family Wines in Santa Rosa where Nielsen spent ten years as winemaker or relished in Ram’s Gate Winery’s latest releases that showcase the nuances of specific vineyards. Maybe you’ve met Joe in real life at local wine tasting groups or during his international travels to the Rhone Valley and Burgundy. If you haven’t done any of the above (and even if you have), consider Joe Nielsen someone you should know.

Founded in 2011 with a focus on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, this beautiful winery has been recognized for its exceptional portfolio, architecture, hospitality, and memorable culinary experiences. The 28-acre estate vineyard, producing 1/3 of its wines, is located in a unique spot for viticulture and wine – the south-side of the vineyard is where Sonoma Valley ends, the Sonoma Coast is to the east, and Carneros is on the west. The balance of the Ram’s Gate Winery’s portfolio is from grapes cultivated from premium single vineyards around the Sonoma Coast.

Thanks to a virtual tasting, I “met” Joe and delved deeper into four wines sent to me as samples for the event. Inspired by his philosophy, stories and exceptional wines, I followed up with Joe via a phone call in order to learn more.

Joe Nielsen spent his first vintage year, 2018, digging deep (literally!) into the soils and appreciating the effects of the winery’s distinctive location. Joe shared that it’s been like “discovering the west with rich minerals in plain view, but we have to dig through it. I have everything I need to make great wines that are complete, complex and compelling.”

“Techniques are tied to terroir,” he stated. “Just because a winemaking strategy works in Chateauneuf du Pape doesn’t necessarily indicate that it will work somewhere else.” Upon his arrival at Ram’s Gate, he shared that he was “respectful, thoughtful, and let the vineyard lead the way.” In 2019, he “tested the 2018 hypothesis… and it was correct 90% of the time.” Vintage year 2020 has allowed him to procure “a vertical to compare and contrast vintages. There’s a trend line now and in the spring of 2020, every barrel of wine was graded from A+ to D.”

Already, during his short tenure at Ram’s Gate, Joe has introduced new detailed and precise practices including the use of native fermentation, whole cluster fermentation, and exciting partnerships with small-production, family-owned coopers. In fact, there are now 17 coopers at Ram’s Gate and Joe “wants to find the barrel that works the best”.

Joe Nielsen has been inspired by “old California wines.” To clarify, he explained that these wines have “a sense of balance and time in the truest form with lower alcohol, higher acidity, and less industry manipulation. With technology and consumerism, we’ve unfortunately influenced the American palate to believe that bigger is better. We lose the elegance of a wine when that happens.” He continued. “I want to preserve freshness and minerality so I tend to pick the grapes much earlier.”

Our tasting began with 2018 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard ($70), a 200-acre vineyard in the Carneros appellation and located in the southeast corner of Napa County. (It’s the only vineyard partner that is located outside of Sonoma County and Joe stated that “the owners are constantly redeveloping and perfecting what they do.”) Textured and creamy, thanks in part to 11 months in barrel with 33% in new French oak and partial malolactic fermentation in order to avoid the “overdone, buttery style,” aromas of freshly baked shortbread cookie, savory spice and bright citrus were enticing. On the energetic yet creamy palate, lemon spritz, lime peel, white peaches, dried apricot and chalky notes were lifted with just-right acidity.

2018 Chardonnay El Diablo Vineyard ($70) is of grapes cultivated in the Russian River Valley in a vineyard on volcanic and goldridge loam soils. I noted breezy salinity and vibrant acidity as well as intense aromas of honey, toast, yellow flowers, and dash of white pepper leading to flavors of lime, lemon, orange peel, juicy citrus, vanilla bean and drizzle of caramel. Aged for 11 months in barrel with 35% in new French oak and partial malolactic fermentation, this elegant, classic Chardonnay has plenty of ageing potential.

Next the 2018 Pinot Noir El Diablo Vineyard ($75) was aged for 16 months in barrel with 28% new French oak and 20% whole cluster fermentation to lend texture. Rich and broad with vibrant acidity and soft tannins, aromas of pomegranate, cranberries, dark plums and earth wafted from the glass. Generous flavors of baking spices, green tea, mint and chocolate as well as fine red fruit were lush and offered a lingering finish. This refined, sophisticated Pinot Noir was flavorful and utterly satisfying.

From grapes cultivated in the Fountain Grove District located on the western side of Spring Mountain, the 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Berler Vineyard ($115) was an exceptional wine that promises to get better with time. Joe remarked that “I was blown away with how beautiful this vineyard is.” (Of note is that grapes were picked one day before the famous Sonoma County fires in 2017.) With 22 months of ageing of which 55% was in new French oak, this “old California inspired wine” teased my palate with personality… Aromas of red currants, green tea, tobacco leaves, dark, juicy plums, blackberry jam and chocolate were alluring and intense. Bright, complex flavors, on a foundation of firm tannins and fresh acidity, burst with bright red fruit and herbs. Drink now, but you may want to cellar this beauty for a few more years.

Joe Nielsen is excited about the present and future at Ram’s Gate Winery. “There are untapped resources here,” he explained. “Sustainability is a profound idea with no boundaries. When I was in Pauillac, the winery I was with developed a 250-year plan… Ram’s Gate is in the right place to develop a similar plan for the future.”

I look forward to the future of Ram’s Gate Winery, too.

Cheers! ~ Cindy

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