Sipping Authenticity: Wines from BARRA of Mendocino and Girasole Vineyards

Sips of wines evoking history, authenticity and much needed sunshine have been in my glass. Sent as samples were three wines from BARRA of Mendocino and Girasole Vineyards located in Redwood Valley in the northern part of Mendocino County. Having explored Anderson Valley a year ago, I looked forward to tasting the offerings of another part of this intriguing wine region and learning more.

BARRA of Mendocino is celebrating its 65^th year of being family owned and farmed. Its history reflects the drive, persistence and forward-thinking of its founder, Charlie Barra. Born in Calpella, California, only five miles north of Ukiah, in 1926, his parents Marie Rovera and Antonio Barra were Italian immigrants from Piedmont where both of their families worked in the vineyards of Italy from the mid-1800s. In fact, the micro-region of Redwood Valley is unique not only for its location and climate, but for its early settlers. Italian and Greek immigrants established vineyards in the late 1800s thanks to the area’s soil and growing conditions similar to their native homes. Many of their descendants, like Barra’s, continue to cultivate grapes in the region.

Having farmed grapes since the mid-1940s, Charlie Barra purchased Redwood Valley Vineyards in 1954. The vineyards consisted of 175 acres at the benchlands of the headwaters of the Russian River and tucked in the base of rolling foothills. Soils are well drained and the climate, hot summer days and cool nights, offers optimal conditions for grapes to mature and ripen slowly, leading to the development of lush, rich flavors.

When Charlie started farming Redwood Valley Vineyards, farmers were averaging as little as $40 a ton for their grapes, as the demand for quality wine based on true varietals had not yet been established. Most growers were still farming what Charlie called “standard” grapes that were used by the major wine producers to make Burgundy and Chablis–the basic table wines of the times. But after a few short years of growing “vin ordinaire,” Charlie could see the tide was turning. He began working with Karl Wente, Robert Mondavi and others on moving to a varietal-focused vineyard.

Charlie was one of the first growers on the North Coast to plant Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Pinot Noir. And over the next 35 years, Charlie would add another six varietals to the soils of Redwood Valley Vineyards including Petite Sirah, Sangiovese, Merlot, Pinot Blanc, Muscat Canelli and Zinfandel. BARRA of Mendocino

Charlie Barra explains his story, philosophy and why he knows he is “doing the right thing” in this intriguing 2017 video.

 

The Barra family continued to acquire prime real estate in the Mendocino County appellation – they currently farm over 350 acres of organic vineyards that have been certified by the CCOF (California Certified Organic Farmers) for over 20 years. Charlie Barra has been known to say that “organic is BARRA’s elemental identity” in that he had farmed organically for 30 years before the term even existed. Before World War II, growing without commercial chemicals and fertilizers was standard.

The BARRA of Mendocino label began in 1997. Prior to that time, the family had sold grapes to a variety of wineries. In 2003, Girasole Vineyards, little sister to BARRA of Mendocino, was added. The Italian name Girasole is an homage to the bright sunflowers that grow in abundance at the vineyard.

Although Charlie passed away in 2019, Charlie’s widow and Founder/Proprietor Martha Barra, her children Shelley Maly and Shawn Harmon, and winemaker Randy Meyer continue the family legacy.

As an introduction to the story of this fascinating winery, I sipped and savored Pinot Blanc. Of the 425 acres of this variety planted in all of California, the Barra family cultivates 14.5 acres in Mendocino County. 2019 Vineyards Pinot Blanc ($14) burst with aromas of lemon, melon, citrus and yellow flowers. Refreshing with mouthwatering acidity, I noted snappy flavors of herbs, rich citrus, chalk and touch of minerality. Having attended the crab festival in Mendocino in January 2020, a fitting pairing with the bright Pinot Blanc is flavorful Crab Cakes, suggested by Martha Barra herself. Find the recipe here.

With vibrant aromas of cranberries and baking spice, 2019 Girasole Vineyards Pinot Noir ($16) was a delight in the glass and on my palate where flavors of butterscotch (just a hint!), anise, juicy red cherries and raspberries were balanced with moderate acidity and tannins. Aged for only 8 months in French oak, this well priced, lip smacking Pinot Noir may be a brilliant pairing with Martha Barra’s Jambalaya. Find the recipe here.

The more I taste a quality Petite Sirah, the more I’m captivated by this special variety, one that launched the BARRA of Mendocino brand in 1997 and is produced in limited quantities. 2017 BARRA of Mendocino Petite Sirah ($22), aged for 18 months in new and French American oak, suggested luscious and bold aromas of lavender, dark berries, tobacco, oak and earth. The rich, dense palate offered layered notes of black pepper, blackberries, black plums, dark red fruit and cocoa on a foundation of firm tannins and just-right acidity. Martha Barra suggests pairing the Petite Sirah with Irish Lamb Stew with Roasted Root Vegetables. Find the recipe here.

Cheers! ~ Cindy

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